ADW1000K00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Watched the on-line video. It was great and made the replacement job easy. Without the video, I probably would have broken the plastic end caps while trying to take them off. I highly recommend watching any available repair videos.

Removed existing gasket seal on door. Cleaned really well with a household cleaner around the gasket crease. Installed new gasket seal around door. Started with small notch in the middle of the gasket to center on top and then slowly fastened into door edge and slowly snug around bottom edge where the deal is notched and the the difficult part was to feel the seam again on the bottom to re attach seal after notch from corner. Rupert this on the other side of door.

I followed the video instructions..I was concerned that the end pieces would be a problem, so I purchased replacements also, but they came off with no problem - thanks to the video.They only cost about $2.50, so I will keep them in stock in case I need them at a later date.Without the video, it probably would have driven me nuts trying to figure out how to remove the end pieces, but when you see it done, it was simple.....Thanks Loads.

Removed rack by twisting and pulling off the plastic ends of the upper roller tracks. Removed old wheels from track and discarded. Removed old wheel assemblies from rack with fingernail. Replaced wheel assemblies on rack with the new ones. Alligned rack with tracks and pushed back into the dishwasher. Replaced plastic track ends with opposite action required for removal. Job completed.

Removed and inverted the DW. Removed the impeller, grinder, screen and seals then the actual shaft seal. Replaced with new parts in reverse order. Instructions provided with the seal kit were simple and excellent. They were right to the point.

I watched the YouTube video about removing the end tabs on the upper rack then simply removed them with a flat head screw driver. Then, after replacing the rack, I re-inserted the tabs using the screw driver. as shown in the video. There's really nothing to it after watching the video, which is about 2 minutes long.

First open the door and look at the corner tub baffles. They are in the bottom corners where the door seals with the tub and they look alike. Remove and replace one at a time making note of the orientation. Make sure they are firmly seated in the bottom and close the door and enjoy.

Dishes were not being cleaned, so the first thing I did was take the float cover off and cleaned the soap gunk off (it was getting stuck open). That solved about 50%. I could tell that the spray arm was gunked (and partially clogged) so I replaced it with this one. A pipe wrench got around the base and I torqued it loose and off, cleaned the inside with a paper towel, and I put the new one on hand tight. Dishwasher works like new again.

I first shut off the power to dishwasher, then shut off water and disconnected the water supply line. Then pulled the washer out from under counter and layed it face down. Undid the hose clamp from sump housing and clamp for wash arm rubber connector. Disconnected screw for the motor brace. Motor swung out of way. Pulled out sump housing and cleaned the edges of the hole. Pushed housing threw bottom and got it to seat in the groove inside the washer. I then unscrewed the rubber for the wash arm and cleaned those areas too. Screwed the new connector on and made it tight, old one was loose. Moved the motor back and reconnected hose clamps and reattached the motor support bracket. Stood washer back up and pushed it back under the counter. Reconnect water line and turned water back on to make sure it was not leaking. Turned power back on to washer. Then poured a large pot of water into washer and turned on and kept checking for leaks but there were none. Finished putting cover plates back on and the washer was done. Then I had to replaced some of the flooring that was damaged from the leaking of these two parts.

Clipped in new wheels and clips

Really simple. Remove old corner baffles by just lifting out and replace with new. Close door to insure the door seal aligns with the new baffles and good to go.

Unscrew old stripped out one and put in new one ..wala!! Easy repair for this old lady...

Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...

Turned off power and water to dishwasher, removed kick plate to dishwasher, removed mounting bracket from frame rail of dishwasher, unplugged valve then used pliers to remove spring clamp on rubber line and used box wrench to remove water line attached to brass connection. There was a lot of calcium build up around screen and rubber O-ring and cleaning that may have fixed it but pulled off anyhow. One problem I had is that the old part would not come apart where the L-joint screwed into the collar that attaches to valve on old setup to allow new one to be bolted to it. So I looked at putting new valve on the old mounting bracket. That did not work after I got it apart as the new bracket is flat while the old is counter sunk...and the new valve has a larger footprint and would not fit flush to seal. So back to work bench and put valve in vise as the threads had plumbers pipe cement it looked like and they were tight. Got the two joints apart...cleaned with wire brush...sanded down mouth of brass collar that fits against O-Ring of new valve to make sure clean. Put teflon tape on all threads and tightened it all back up. Reconnected, plugged in, mounted to dishwasher and ran a full cycle with dishwasher pulled out so I could monitor any leakage from beginning. All is good...so slid back under sink and ran load with dishes...noticed water on floor. Freaked out...pulled it all out and valve was dry. I forgot to clean up the little bit of water that came out of lines when disconnected first time for repair... :) All is good now.

very quickly