ADG7000AWW Admiral Dryer - Instructions

Always begin repairs by unplugging the power cord from the power outlet! First, push in the 2 taps under the dryer top to lift it up and secure it at a 90 degree angle. Remove the door light switch from the retaining clip and let it hang to the outside of the dryer. After removing the 2 scews inside the top front, remove the front dryer cover. Next, remove the screws holding the blower cover and set it aside. Using a pair of plyers, remove the hose clip from the blower axle. Use a c-clip tool to remove the c-clip and pull out the blower wheel. Use a vacuum attachment hose to remove lint and other dirt from the wheel housing and dryer. Apply a light dish soap to the motor axle and slide on the new blower wheel. Replace the blower housing cover, front dryer cover, light switch, and close the dryer top, making sure to allign the pins and holes near the lid clips that secure the dryer top. Plug in the dryer power cord and you are set to go! Retire to your favorite lounge chair, grab the remote, and tell your wife that it is OK to "test" the dryer! However, do not attempt the last step until AFTER you have cleaned up all the mess you made while making the repair!

used a flat blade screw driver to open top up(like a car hood) then removed two screws that held the front panel on. Two more screws held the lint colector part in place. The only problem that I had was that I had to use Elmers white glue to hold the gasket that ran around the lint colector in place.Just a little dab, not enough to soak it.When I took the part out there was about a volleyball's worth of lint in the fan blower. Ordered the part and 2 or three days later I had it. If I need another part I will be back...

First I removed the 2 screws located on front panel securing dust collector in place, then I removed the two screws on the side of the dryer that secure the front panel. I also "popped" the top
of the dryer from the front panel. The front of the panel was then detached from the dryer. I thenpulled the gasket away from the collector, removed the old one and installed the new collector. Part of the kit also contained a new gasket to the exhaust duct, I merely removed the old gasket and installed the new one.. All this was notas hard asit sounds. The diagram from PartsSelect site helped

Removed lower front cover of dryer, located coils, removed old coils by disconnecting the wires and removing the hold down bracket screws. Pulled the old coils out replaced them with the new coils by aligning the index pins on the coils with the holes in the bracket then reattached the bracket and plugged the wires into the new coils. Then closed the cover on the front of the dryer. Dryer now ignites and stays on to heat up and dry clothes.

I needed to remove the front lower cover, very easy as it is held on with clips only so I used a flat head screw driver to pop it off. I had to remove the lint filter and then there are two screws attaching the top cover of the dryer to the internal lint filter tray. The top of the dryer can then be opened front to back I again used the flat head screw driver to pop the top open as it has two clips at the front corners. It helps to have someone to hold it open or a rod of some type to keep it open. You can now lay the belt on the top of the drum and work it down the back side by pulling forward on the drum itself to seperate the drum from the seal that presses aginst the back side of the drum. I then went from the lower front to retrieve the belt now draped over the drum and pinched the belt to pass it through the tensioner and over the drive pulley. looking at it from the front the belt will come down the right side of the drum under the tensioner pulley around the drive pulley across the bottom of the drum and up the left side. The belt sits almost in the middle of the drum not against the back lip where there is a groove that might be confused as a place for the belt to ride that is where the seal sits then reverse the process to reattach the top to lint tunnel and reattach front cover and you are good to go . i would suggest vaccuming any old dust/ lint whlie everything is open as this reduces the chance for catching on fire I was supprised as to how much lint was loose inside the dryer cavity itself and our dryer is gas and the flame is an open flame.

Took everything apart, replaced the igniter flint, and still didn't get heat. Then found out the thermal sensor wasn't running a electrical current through it with voltmeter and just replaced that, now it we have heat again!

Replaced both Coils. Purchased M Series coils much less expensive buying coils together instead of seperately. Problem solved.

I had an issue where I was not getting any power to my ignitor. After replacing the ignitor with a fresh one, the problem persisted. Next, I went hunting all the fuses and therrmostats for continuity. All seemed fine. So finally I decided to jump the flame sensor which is located on the outside of the flame tube. WHALLA! It ignited the glow plug. So with one 1/4"" nut driver I removed the single bolt from the unit, then I used a pliers to remove the two wires from the old unit. I replaced the sensor with Tue new unit and all was well. It took less than 5 min once I diagnosed the problem.

unplug dryer, lift top, remove 2 screws holding front, lift & swing front to right, use nutdriver to remove two screws holding igniter and other piece attached with same screws, a couple wiggles and out, unplugged igniter, plug in new, reposition new igniter and other piece, replace screws, repositioned front panel, replaced front panel screws, dropped top back in place, plugged in and wha-la. Heat.
Original Igniter had a hairline crack in it causing it to intermittantly fire. Thanks PartSelect, right part and speedy delivery.

Remove back panel n u can see the sensor and easy to replace thanks to the print out i was provided love this website

Easy Job.
First take a flat head screw driver and pop the top placing the screwdriver in between the front panel. The top of the dryer should pop up.
Then just pull it up and over towards the back.

Then unscrew the front panel and move it out of the way leaveing the front door atached to the panel.
Once you open the front panel' You can pull the dryer tub out by sliding it out and at the same time you need to push the belt towards the back of the tub until it comes off.
Now you can get to the ingiter by first disamablethe gas
housing first.
Simply by taking one screw off and disconnecting the gas line fitting in front of the dryer. Also disconnect the 3 sets of wires that are connected to that piece and the igniter.
The hole piece will then come out with the igniter attached to it.
Next disconnect the igniter from the piece and replace it with new one.
Then put back togather the same way you took it apart.
Reinstalling the tub.
When it's time to put the tub back in; there's a trick to that.
Put tub in about 3/4 of the way in, put the belt around the tub and let the rest hang to the floor inside dryer.then crawl into the tub and stetch your head and arm through the tub on the back side.
Then you can get to the belt and route it into the motor and the pully that is spring loaded it makes it so much easer that way then trying to run the belt and route it in place from the top. Once that is done now you can adjust belt back to its orignal position then push the tub back in place. Reinstall fron panel and your their.
Total cost 36.00 plus shipping. Thats a lot cheaper then a sevice call and labor

Shut off gas removed gas valve. Removed the coil retainer and installed the new coils. Reinstalled valve and checked. Found dryer worked fine.

I inserted the clip

Before anything else, I would like to thank your company for a quick response and fast delivery of the parts that I ordered. Ordering parts from your company saved me a lot of money. The repair took me about 15 min. First I removed the two screws that hold the front cover and then I pulled out the drum and replaced the broken pulley, then I put back the drum and the belt in place and then I put the cover and screwed back in and now I'm back washing and drying pile of clothes.

I applied the excellent description of accessing and fixing the drier givenby others. When the second fusible link opened, I consulted the Repair Forum. Denman, an obviously experienced responder, walked me through the diagnostics.

I did not ask denman's permission to pass on his recommendations so they may or may not apply to your situation. Heere

"Here are your parts with a wiring diagram
Maytag YE225LV

With the unit apart and drum/belt removed and thermal fuse wires shorted together the motor should run. You also have to tape or hold the door switch closed. I would also disconnect and tape up one of the wires going to the heater coil as it will overheat. Never leave the thermal fuse shorted as the unit can cause a house fire without it.

Be very careful that everything is well taped up so you do not get a short.
You have 220 volts in the unit which is very dangerous.

The motor should manually turn easily from the pulley end.
The ding from the fan indicates that there is a problem here. Check it carefully.
Here is a good site
Dryer Help Sections, repairing dryers, Kenmore, Whirlpool, Maytag, Inglis, GE, Frigidaire, White Westinghouse, Magic Chef, Norge, changing a 3 prong cord to a 4 prong cord, no heat, electric dryers, gas dryers, how to take apart my dryer, what can st
Check out the Maytag Dependable Care section / 26 -motor problems / "Check this out" at the bottom of the page

Normally your high limit safety thermostat should open before the thermal fuse blows.
When you ran your test did you run it on fluff (no heat) at first?

I would remove and check the heater for a grounded element.
Depending where it breaks/shorts it can be on high heat all the time with the thermostats having no control of it.
From your description this would be my prime suspect!!"

My observations:

1 the reference above is to applianceaid.com, which had useful tips. Tip #4 was washing the filter screen with detergent, as it holds an invisible layer of residual lint.

3. When cleaning, disconnect front panel, take out filter and clean the cavity behind the filter. I used a garden hose and large volumes of lint came out.

Now I am scheduling full clean out at least annually, including washing screen and inside door.

2. since thermal fuses are designed to open when overheated, it is hard to test if they work or not. (They test continuous at room temperature.)

3. at Denman's subsequent suggestion, I replaced the thermal fuse past the blower. (There is a thermal fuse ahead of the heating elements and the elements heated, so it is a less logical failure candidate.)

System working fine. The help was worth as much as the parts!