ADG20N3V Admiral Dryer - Instructions

After I watched the video I read other people's repairs and used both to get the belt changed.The dryer is old, I believe it is from the 70's. We took the front off and then laid the dryer on its back for easier access, looped the belt as described on the video, turned the drum counter clock-wise and then reattached the front. It was very simple thanks to the video and other people's suggestions. Dryer works great and very happy it turned out to be an easy fix.

usually run through these tests first before I have to open until the unit.. establish that your 240 volt breaker didn't trip... If the breaker is okay... Unplug the dryer and use a multimeter to ensure you have 240 volts at the receptacle... If you are okay there... next check the door switch... You can press the button and you should hear a click... If you hear it click you should be okay there... Okay let's open the top... There are 2 black latches on the unit towards each side... You can use a flathead screwdriver or a putty knife to depress the clips while pulling gently upwards on the lid and it will open...from past experience fixing dryers I knew that more than likely it was the thermal fuse.... With the unit still unplugged... Look towards the back of the unit you will see the heating element...There is a thermostat and the thermal fuse on the bracket with the element... The thermal fuse is the small black and silver thing about the diameter of a dime. What the thermal fuse does is protects the unit if it should get too hot... pretty much a safety mechanism... What you want to do is remove the screw holding the little bracket that houses the fuse and remove it... It is a little tight back there this is why I remove it...Next remove the 2 wires and test the fuse using a continuity test making sure that you have a closed circuit... If it's an open circuit that would be your problem... Order the high limit thermostat kit... You should replace the thermostat also which comes in the kit...remove the 2 screws holding the thermostat down and once you get your replacement parts just replace the thermostat and fuse and you'll be good to go...

Push new catch in the opening, close the door and VOILA! the door stays closed. Please note that the cost of this part is exorbitant- it's worth about 50 cents but with shipping it cost about $11.00. Check your local hardware store first.

The dryer opens up pretty easily; there are two screws holding the lint filter housing to the top panel that must be removed before the top will come up. The top panel pops open by prying it up with a screw driver. Once it's off there are two screws inside near the top that hold the upper front panel to the sides. There are also two screws that need to be loosened, but not removed, at the very bottom of the upper front panel, accessed by removing the lower front panel which is also popped out by prying (the upper part of the lower panel is pulled straight out, and is held to the bottom of the unit by hinge-like clips). Once the upper front panel is wriggled back the drum will slump off but stay pretty much in place while you set the panel aside (it has an electrical lead that goes to the door-closed sensor, but if you pop its clips loose in a couple spots you'll have enough slack to set it to the side). The drum pulls off easily. You might want to take a photo of the belt/pulley arrangement underneath it before removing everything, as it is not intuitively obvious how the belt runs thru the pulleys. Once the drum is gone vacuum up all that accumulated lint, then pop off the metal clips that hold the motor on. I was surprised at how little holds that motor on; apparently it's enough. Here is where I ran into my one snag: I couldn't unscrew the blower wheel from the motor shaft, and you have to get that fan off to get the motor out. You're supposed to clamp a wrench on the plastic fan just inside the dryer housing, and unscrew it by turning the shaft from the other side. No go. I eventually drilled a sequence of holes into the plastic around the metal shaft (easy) and could pull the motor out, but of course now I needed a $20 fan replacement. The motor and fan showed up in 2-3 days. Unfortunately, the motor came with a pulley that needed a narrower drive belt than my original. I guess I could have cut the original down, but i just went ahead and ordered a new one ($12). Everything went back together surprisingly easily. Getting the new fan on was much easier than getting that old one off.

take two phillips srews out of lint catch frame. next take a screw driver pry up front top part on dryer.lean back top out of way.take two screws out of top of dryer door. disconnect electrical connection dryer door frame.and pull frame upward and off. you will see roller bracket with end made to put in slott. put it in first slott under belt motor.take belt and pull it through under roller and hook it with screwdriver to motor pulley.by putting the tip of screwdriver on motor pulley with belt on screwdriver and lift up until belt slides on to pulley. make sure you put belt around barrel. before putting belt through roller bracket and on to motor pulley.and use something to put under barrel so it will not get in the way and fall off.

i popped the top off. removed the 2 hex screws in the front upper inner corners. lifted the front panel up about an inch n removed it. pulled the drum out. removed the old broken belt. put the tention roller back into the slots at the bottom panel n base of the motor. mounted the new belt around the motor n thru the tentioner as i placed the drum in position n mounted the belt around the drum. holding the drum in place i replaced the front panel. replaced the hex screws n closed the lid. wah-lah. dryer fixed... thank you parts select

After ordering the part, I read the information left by other users. I used a screw driver to pop out the piece, and then put the new latch in the opening. A gentle pop with the side of my hand, and the door latch went right into place. Who knew there was a second door latch on the other side that could've been used?

Unplug the Dryer; remove the lower exterior cover and white plastic drum vent with nut drivers. These two fuses will be setting on top of the function board in front of the gas heating tube.
With a short screwdriver, remove the fuse cover/holder, lift fuse and unplug, replace, re-plug, screw back the cover/holder and you’re done.
Reverse your initial actions...

My dryer was made so the fan was not removable and I had to reach through a narrow opening in behind the fan housing to put the belt on the motor pulley. The problem I encountered was that I could only use one hand to push against the idler pulley spring while at the same time try to catch the belt and slip it under the idler pulley. It repeatedly slipped off and every time it did the spring and idler pulley would come loose, and I would have to realign the the idler pulley shaft and attach the spring. After the fifth time I left the spring off, pushed the idler pulley shaft all the way in and put scratch a mark on the shaft on the inside of the first hole it enters. Next I drilled 1/16" hole in the shaft where I marked it, installed the spring and idler pulley then slipped a small cotter pin in the hole I drilled. Now if it slips off I only need to reach back and push the idler pulley up and catch the belt.

I followed instructions from video -- although the model used in the video was different, the approach was similar. Really the only difficulty was laying on my back (72 years old) and, with one hand and through feel alone (work area was not visible), getting the belt on the drive sprocket and the spring loaded wheel.

Must remove 2 screws in the lint screen port anchoring the top of the dryer. Next the front panel of the dryer is removed from the machine by pulling up with a putty knife disassembling the clip holding the front in place. 2 more screws are then removed holding front panel of the dryer. The doors sensor switch is then removed freeing the front panel to be removed. At this point after the front panel is off and the top of the dryer lifts in an upwards position and you can now see the tub and the broken belt. The belt has to be reinserted around the tub into the pulley assembly before being pulled onto the motor. The pulley lifts upward towards the tub if it was put on correctly. It has to be placed underneath the pulley in order to have tension put on the belt firming the connection between the tub and motor. To reassemble just reverse what you have taken off in that order. Their is a DYI video which shows the process perfectly. Have a good one !

I replaced the two coils that regulate the gas to turn on and the other to hold open to burn, unplug two connections and remove 2 screws and then replace the coils less then 5 minutes to do this,

Followed directions on movie. This was a simple process. Although in the end I found that replacing the rollers was not the problem in the end. It turned out to be the motor, which I was able to repair with some prior experience with electric motors and a bit of oil. That's why it took as long as it did to make the total repair. Still happy with the outcome.

Igniter would glow and flame would burn for about 30 seconds then a rattling noise would start and the flame would go out. Replaced the coil and all is well. Very simple and inexpensive. One of the easiest repairs I've ever done. Video was very helpful.

Thousand dollars for a new dryer or twenty bucks for a new belt. Thank-you parts select. Ordering was easy and the instructions were bang on!