Models > ADG20K4H > Instructions

ADG20K4H Admiral Dryer - Instructions

All installation instructions for ADG20K4H parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the dryer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the ADG20K4H
1-15 of 648
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Dryer ran but would not heat

  • Customer: Gary from Haverhill NH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 180 of 203 people found this instruction helpful
PartSelect showed seven different possibilities why the dryer wouldn't heat. I removed the two screws to remove the bottom panel and turned the dryer on and noticed that the heating element that ignites the gas was working fine. This meant that it was not getting gas so it could be the gas valve or one of the two gas valve coils which are located on top of the gas valve. I borrowed my neighbor"s ohm meter and touched the two probes on the coils terminals to check for continuity and found that one of the coils read zero. I then took both of the coils out by removing two screws and tested each coil again. One coil read 500-850 and the other read zero. This meant that it was no good so I called for the part and received it in three days. I reassembled the parts and turned the dryer on and it fired up after a few seconds. It works as good as new. The part plus shipping was less than $30. My repairman would have charged me $150-$200. While the dryer was apart I gave it a good cleaning with a vacuum and a toothbrush in delicate areas. I also removed and cleaned the lint trap housing by removing two nuts. I didn't know much about gas dryers, but thanks to PartSelect I easily fixed it myself.

Electric dryer would not heat - Thermal fuses - $25 fix - I love DIY

  • Customer: Ronald from Fredericksburg VA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 111 of 120 people found this instruction helpful
1. Unplug dryer from power outlet
2. Lift dryer top from front (hinged in rear). Just friction holding top down. Use flat scewdriver wrapped in cloth to help lift.
3. Locate heating element - rear top behind drum
4. Unplug red wires to the high limit thermal fuse
5. Unplug red wires to the heating element
6. Unlug white wires to the high limit fuse
7. Remove high limit thermal fuse
8. Remove heating element
9. Remove high limit fuse
10 Clean heating box
Installation is reverse order but do the following first!
Clean lint trap - Remove front of dryer
1. Unplug white door switch wires. inside front top right
2. remove two screws securing the front of dryer - inside front top left and top right. Front of dryer is hinged at bottom
3. Clean all the lint you can find. If you have never cleaned out the lint, there might be a lot and the cause of over heating (shorting fuse life). Add to your yearly things to do list.
4. While your at it check the alignment of the plastic glides the drum sits on.
5. Also check the foam gasket between the fan housing and lint trap. Mine was off a bit. Realigned with doubled sided tape.

broken tumbler belt

  • Customer: Michael from San Antonio TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 78 of 79 people found this instruction helpful
1. Removed the screws from the lint catcher
2. Removed the bolts from upper rear of dryer
3. Pried off the dryer top from the front (it rests on rear hinges)
4. Disconnected dryer door wiring
5. Removed bolt from inside upper front corners; removed front panel (be careful: the edges are sharp and the tumbler will fall when it loses support)
6. Removed broken belt and lint from interior parts; removed tensioner (which had fallen out of place). Note: The newer models have a tensioner pulley; my older model had a smooth semicircle that was confusing at first glance
7. Flipped dryer onto its back (for easier reinsertion of new belt and tumbler)
8. Placed new belt on tumbler; reinserted tumbler
9. Inserted new belt through tensioner, inserted tensioner "legs" into grooves on floor. Note: The belt will pull the tensioner upright when it's inserted properly (which isn't obvious at first)
10. Made sure belt and tumbler seal were properly installed
11. Replaced parts in reverse order
The process took over an hour because I couldn't figure out how to insert the belt through the tensioner. The trick is to insert the folded belt through the tensioner and onto the motor pulley. If I had to do it again, it would take about 30 minutes (including cleaning lint)

Timer wasn't working (New Timer)

  • Customer: Joaquin from Las Vegas NV
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 70 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
Timer wasn't working on the regular cycle so I replace it with a new one from partselect. It still wasn't working so I ordered and replace the cycling thermostat, the thermal fuse I also cleaned the vent and dryer it still didn't work so I read the diagram for the electrical and found that a coil for the gas valve is line with timer. I ordered the coils for the valves, replaced both valves and tested the dryer and it work just like when I first bought the appliance.

Dryer would only heat cycle once

  • Customer: Robert from Seattle WA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 55 of 61 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the two screws holding the front panel to expose the lower works and verified the heating cycle failure. After a check of the vent system, checking the sensors for continuity and coils for resistance, I retired to the 'net for support. Accepting the general consensus that the most frequent, common and likely failure to be the coils, I rechecked them with the meter and found the two pronged coil to have significantly more resistance than the three prong coil. That was enough evidence to point to the coils. While I waited for the part to arrive, I replace the vent ducting. When the parts arrived I removed the two Phillips screws holding the coils, removed the old ones, installed the new ones, replaced the bracket, put the front cover back on and in less then ten minutes clothes where drying.

The dryer heated up for a few minutes and then cooled down.

  • Customer: James from Limington ME
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 43 of 47 people found this instruction helpful
1 Unplug power.
2. Remove the front of the unit by removing the two screws at the bottom of the front panel. Front dryer panel will swing out from the bottom and then the clips will release the top of the panel, careful not to disconnect the dryer door switch. ( can be unplugged to remove the front panel out of the way.)
3. Looking inside the unit on the right side you will see the gas value. On top of the gas unit you will see two small coils the coil closest to the burner has two leads on it. Remove the two screws to get to the coils, remove the medal plate, remove the connector then lift off the secondary coil. Replace and test. You can test unit with the front panel off. (be careful). If no heat, check that the Flat Style igniter is glowing. (ohm out both coils) before ordering parts. Intermittent heat problems. I replaced the secondary coil, it did ohm out o:k but it had swollen and was very tight on the shaft.

Broken belt - drum would not turn

  • Customer: Gary from Oakland MD
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 42 of 46 people found this instruction helpful
Started out taking the back off, then found online that access is from the front and much easier to get to. Simply pop the hinges in the back of the top panel and then the front of the top is popped off. From there, it is easy to remove the old belt, clean the innards (found 31 cents) and replace the new belt. It was a little disconcerting to see the idler pulley laying loose inside, but the diagram showed exactly how to put it back in place, with the new belt keeping it in place.

Dryer flame goes out after about 8-minutes from start and won’t work again until a 15-minute rest.

  • Customer: andy from Bethesda MD
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 40 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
There was no problem with lint build-up within the dryer & the exhaust vent. I removed the gas cycling thermostat & thermal fuse from system & dryer still was not operating correctly. The radiant sensor & hi-limit thermostat both seemed to be operating correctly. That left either of the two coils as the culprits. I replaced both coils & the problem was corrected.

No power to the unit.

  • Customer: Kevin from Lawrenceville GA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 35 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
Popped the two latches at the front of the machine inorder to raise the lid/cover. Found the part just above and behind the drum. Removed the screws, disconnected the wires and replaced the parts. I did have to remove the heating coils, but that was easy too. No wonder the Maytag repair man has nothing to do! Thank you Partselect.com. Not only did you ship the part to my house fast, but it was just as expensive if not cheaper than going out for it. Plus, I found instructions for the repair on your forums. Thanks again, you have a customer for life!

Dryer squeaking really badly

  • Customer: Michelle from Kirkwood MO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 32 of 33 people found this instruction helpful
I opened the dryer from the front by pushing in on the two clips just under the top. I then had to remove two screws on each side and took the front panel off. I reached around underneath on the right side to slip the belt off the pulley. I pulled the drum out and then I could see the roller that was squeaking (the left one). The wheel had sheared some of the support off and that was the cause of the squeak.

I took the locking ring off and removed the wheel and support. I put the new support in, attached it, and then the wheel, washer and lock ring. I used pliers to push the lock ring onto the support.

Then I put the drum back in making sure it was in all the way (it fits snugly between the wheel and the back of the dryer). The belt is a little tricky to get back on. I put it around the drum and then reached underneath and behind again. The pulley is on a spring, so you have to pull it up and put the belt on all one-handed and blind. Once that was on, I gave it a few turns to make sure everything was working again.

It is quiet as can be now!

GAS FLAME WOULD DROP OUT

  • Customer: FRED from BRIELLE NJ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 38 of 52 people found this instruction helpful
first it was a process of alimination to find out why it was dropping out. after the problem was found it was just a matter of replacing the holding coil on the gas valve.
THANK YOU
FRED KENNEY SR

Extended drying time. Some but not enough heat. Burner would light for 15-18 seconds at first then shut off for 1-3 minutes then light for 3-6 seconds and repeat for the length of the cycle.

  • Customer: Matthew from Lake Worth FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 30 of 16 people found this instruction helpful
Determining the problem was the hardest part. With multiple parts (coils,thermostats...)possibly causing similar symptoms, I narrowed it down to the two coil valves.
Un plug the dryer. Remove two screws at the base of the front panel. Turn the front panel 180 degrees to avoid disconnecting the door switch. Gas valve with coils on top are on the right in front. Remove two screws in bracket holding coils, disconnect the wires, replace with new coils and reconnect wires. One coil has 2 terminals the other has 3 no chance of crossing the wires. I used an offset/right angle screw driver for one of the bracket screws due to close proximity to the drum. A stubby phillips head will work. You can check the burner operation with the front panel off as long as the door switch is still attached. Swing the front panel around and lift back into place securing with the two screws. Dryer works fine now.

Dryer made a loud noise and vibrated badly

  • Customer: Thomas from Oneonta NY
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 25 of 26 people found this instruction helpful
First I made sure the unit was unplugged. I popped the top of the unit with a slotted screw driver, lifted the top up and rested it against the wall behind the dryer. I removed the two screws - one on each side in front on top of the dryer cabinet. Then I tipped back the front panel of the dryer slightly with the door of the dryer closed. I unclipped the door switch with a slotted screw driver and then lifted the entire front panel including the door off of the the two floor clips on bottom. I set the front panel aside. Next I lifted the large drum slightly to dislodge the rollers in back and slid the drum back slowly while sliding the thin belt back on the drum until the drum was out of the unit and the belt was detached and loose. Then I cleaned the unit thoroughly, vacuumed all lint and dirt and wiped down the outside of the large drum with mineral spirits to make sure it was totally clean and smooth. Then I removed the two rollers and the roller shafts at the back of the unit following the directions enclosed. My slip-ring pliers came in handy to remove the retaining rings on the roller shafts. I replaced the rollers and roller shafts and the supplied washers and spacers as per the instructions. I sprayed a little WD-40 on the surface of the rollers and it stopped all squeaking and vibration of the drum. Next I replaced the front drum pads and runners as per the instructions. I then slid the drum back in place taking care to slide the new belt back around the drum in the same position as the old belt. Now came the difficult part - laying on the floor and reaching under the drum I positioned the belt around the motor shaft and tension pulley. This must be done by "feel" and must be done correctly!! Follow the instructions on the positioning of the belt very carefully and make sure it is in the correct position on the drum, motor shaft, and tension pulley! Next, get up and rock the drum up and down slightly to make sure it has engaged the two rear rollers properly. Rotate the drum manually one or two turns to make sure the belt is in the correct position. Then replace the front door panel by dropping it onto the two clips at the base of the unit and taking care to replace the door switch in reverse order of taking it out. Then replace the two screws at the top front on each side of the unit to secure the front panel. Lower the top of the unit back in place, plug in the dryer, turn it on and enjoy the lack of noise you have created.

Dryer belt snapped

  • Customer: J. from Oakdale NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 26 of 30 people found this instruction helpful
There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.

Lost all power even the light.

  • Customer: Jeremiah from Laureldale PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 25 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the top and front panel. I first cleaned all the lint from the bottom of the lint trap which clogged the vent and caused the dryer to overheat. Then I replaced the high limit thermostat and thermal fuse. Bingo!! Worked good as new.
All Instructions for the ADG20K4H
1-15 of 648