ADE9005AGW Admiral Dryer - Instructions

Ordered new lint filter, which did not quite fit. Called company and was told that filter had been redesigned to remove the felt surround, and that sometimes the new filters did not seat well. It turned out that the exhaust pipe was filled with packed-down lint causing the new filter not to go all the way into the slot. My husband surmised that that was why the first filter broke because volunteers at the Humane Society adoption center were trying to shove the filter into a groove that no longer worked. He took off the top, the front, and one other piece before removing all of the lint he could reach. Once that was done, the filter fit fine.

first i checked the power supply then i checked each of the switches and limit fuses for continuity.
to do that i had to take the front of the drier off, four screws there. then i removed the bad limit switch 2 screws,the door switch was bad so i replaced it, no screws. since i had the front off the drier i removed the four screws that held the drum in place and replaced the belt. assembled the drier in reverse order when the parts came. 1/2hour total labor.

I inserted the clip

Removed bottom door panel, four screws. The new part was a slightly different (looks like improved) part, so only had to put two screws back in. Very simple. The only reason it took more than 15 minutes was because I cleaned exposed areas while the panel was off.

Remove the 2 screws at bottom of front panel, remove lower panel. Then remove the two screws at bottom of front door. Lift door forward so spring hooks can disengage from the top panel. remove door, disconnect the 5 wires to the door latch and light. remove the two screws at top of dryer to lift up top panel. Remove 4 screws at the front holding the drum. Disengage the belt from the tension pulley and remove drum. Replaced both roller wheels at the rear of the drum( one was broke). Then remove the screws (about 6 holding the plate in front of the blower wheel. Use a wrench to hold the nut at the back of the motor and a scocket wrench to remove blower wheel. (The Blower wheel was broken from the shaft and was spinning freely). Then do it all backwards to re assemble. i spent more time cleaning the lint from the inside than I took making the repair!

Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.

Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.

Not too difficult. Take out of box, insert into dryer slot.
Done

remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .

1-Unplugged drier
2-removed lower panel-(2)-8mm screws
3-removed intake from fan-(3)-8mm screws
4-removed dryer's front panel-w/door assembly-(2)-8mm screws. (note there is a door switch you will need to disconnect the wires and remember which terminals they go to.
5-remove the front drum support-(4)-8mm screws
***** at this point the drum is exposed *****
6-reached under the drum pulled the tensioner to relieve tension on belt, then dismounted the belt from only the tensioner and motor shaft; leave the belt on the drum!
7-pull drum toward you and forward about 3-to-4 inches, this exposes the drum rollers.
8-use a screwdriver and pry-off the retaining clip on the end of the roller's shaft and remove the roller.
9-remove the roller support-(2)-8mm screws
10- reinstall new roller support
11- apply a light coat of disc-brake hi-temp wheel bearing grease to the roller support shaft, very light!
12-install a new wavy thrust washer, new roller(note they will say "front" on the side that should face you. Don't mount it backwards!
13-install the outer thrust washer and the new retaining clip; use a flashlight for this part!
14-repeat for the other drum roller.
**** while you have it apart use a vacuum to remove lint from every where you see it; it is a fire hazard!
**** if you think you need a drive belt now is the best time to change it *****
15- re-assemble the dryer in the reverse order, don't forget to re-install the drive belt and be careful not to pinch the door switch wires.
16-re-plug the drier and test

I believe the best procedure would be to start at the very bottom of the machine - there are two sheet metal screws in the bottom panel. Remove the bottom panel.

Now, there are two sheet metal screws at the bottom of the front door panel that need to be removed. Remove front panel by pulling down to dislodge from plastic pins aligning it to the top panel.

Now the air duct assembly is accessible. From outside machine remove two sheet metal screws holding lower air duct frame. From inside the dryer opening, remove three screws holding the upper frame. Remove old air duct assembly and vaccuum machine.

New air duct assembly is in one piece, so only three inside screws are needed to support it. Make certain the screws are seated well or clothes could get hung up on the screw heads. Reinstall front door panel and bottom panel.

Doing it this way should make the job around 20 to 30 minutes.

The parts to replace were mounted to the rear wall of the dryer and only the front pane is removeable. With the panel removed the drum had to be pulled carefully straight out. The belt and tention arm were difficult to reposition. Since you have the appliance apart replace both roller and roller support brackets one of which you cannot see from the front. Throughly vaccum all lint and roller wheel debris . If you have an air compressor take the time to blow out the motor . Make sure to rig a device to hold the tention arm back with the belt correctly aligned while sliding the drum back into place. PARTSLECT is great , easy to use and suggests other parts I may not have thought of and quick . Parts were here in 2 days standard shipping. I was in the dog house for putting this off too long. My wife is happy so I'm happy.

1. Remove bottom sill plate with two screws
2. Remove door, watch for the wire.
3. Remove tub retaining "ring" 4 screws
4. Pull tub forward
5. Pull off the old support roller using the snapring pliers
6. grease the new roller and pins (do both sides)

Reverse it and put it back together and its good as new!

This was my first time repairing a dryer. If I knew when I started the project what I know now, it would have been an easy repair. First, you should know that the series number (used for selecting a wiring diagram) is the last two digits of the unit's serial number (not model number). In my case, the series number was 11. The hardest part for me was figuring out how to take the dryer apart. I made the mistake of starting with the top instead of the front. In fact, I removed the control panel and disconnected all the wires, labeling them carefully, and creating a diagram, so i could put it all back together later. I now realize I could have left that all together and just lifted the top up in the front without removing it. That knowledge would have saved hours of work, so I hope it helps someone (prop up the front a few inches and start by removing the panel on the lower front, then remove the screws on the main front panel, and then pull out the bottom of that panel toward you until the top of that front panel disengages from the top of the dryer - the rest is obvious). So it turns out there were two separate problems: 1) the blower wheel had broken completely off of the motor so it wasn't spinning - this is why hot air wasn't being pulled through from the heater in the back of the dryer; 2) the pulley on the spring-loaded lever arm attached to the motor was squeaking due to lack of lubricant. So the solution was to replace the blower wheel and spray WD-40 in the pulley (and also, for good measure in the roller bearings that support the drum in the back of the dryer). Most of the time spent on the repair was just due to my own mistakes. In particular, once I got everything back together after the repair, it stopped squeaking and there was good airflow, but it wasn't heating. I spent an entire day trying to troubleshoot the lack of heat. I tested and bypassed all of the thermostats and heater fuses and the heating element still wouldn't come on. I even managed to accidentally ground one of the leads from the fuse and had to replace a melted wire connector (trip to the Shack). In the end, it turned out that a wire which had been accidentally disconnected from the main power cord to the dryer, I had put back in the wrong spot. There is L1, L2, and neutral going into the dryer. I had the heater on the same circuit as the motor and other stuff. Once I traced the wiring diagram back, I realized this and corrected it by putting the heating circuit back onto L2. Now it "hums like a Singer". If everything had gone smoothly, instead of being a 2-day repair, it would have been a 2 hour repair. 2 hours instead of 1 because to get the leverage I needed to remove the old blower nut, I had to actually pull the motor assembly out of the dryer and move it to my workbench. Someone who is strong or more limber or has better tools might be able to skip that step, reducing the time by about 45 minutes. Good luck!

Watch the video. Very, very easy

Opened things, saw lint buildup, cleaned inside of dryer, then cleaned entire vent discharge system, put new thermal fuse back, turned on dryer and heard metal to metal, opened dryer back up, saw missing glides (both gone). Ordered what I thought were 2 glides, 2 days later 1 showed, called and was told I didn't "update" when I changed order info (parts supplier cautioned to replace 2, should only sell in pairs) so then had to wait again for 2nd glide to show up. Replaced them today and noticed dried clothes are now cooler when finished. Will note in future if clothes are warmer, clean ductwork.