ADE20M3V Admiral Dryer - Instructions

Found the heating element under top of dryer towards the back and replaced it

I watched the video several times to make sure I got it right. The first thing that was very helpful was how to disassemble the top cover and front panel using a putty knife to disengage the detents. With the cover off I could acccess the belt and idler pulley. Replacing the belt was fairly easy as long as you note the way it threads through the idler pulley and drive pulley. I thought the video was excellent. It took me right to the problem and the fix. As a bonus the price for the belt was much lower from Parts Supply then from Sears. I've recommended this site to several others.

At first I thought I had the wrong part. But a quick call to the service number solved the problem. Seems the only part now available is a double wide strip with two sets of molded clips. Simple solution was to pull the strip apart into two. Worked like a charm.

I unclipped the top of the dryer for access to the heating coils. I unscrewed the bracket holding the high limit thermostat (the heating element was directly below the high limit thermostat). I removed one screw holding the heating element in place, and then removed the faulty heating element. I checked the old heating element and the old high limit thermostat with a multimeter to confirm that they were faulty - both the heating coil and the HL thermostat had continuity but the coils looked like they needed to be replaced (not rusty, but dingy). I installed the new heating element and the new HL thermostat, closed the top of the dryer and ran the dryer - it worked :) Thanks partselect.com!

Removed two screws at the top, removed two screws for the front panel, removed the broken belt, installed the new belt, followed the directions that were in the new belt package, and replaced all the panels and tested. It worked.

The parts are preventative. They will be installed the NEXT time the machine breaks down. Typical roller squeal that comes back every year or so. I popped the top like usual, swung open the front panel, lifted out the drum and set it aside. Discovered the rear roller shafts had become scored, so in addition to cleaning and re-lubing and reassembling for the immediate dryer loads, I ordered the rear drum rollers and shaft studs kit, as well as a set of Teflon glides for the front of the drum, which were growing thin, and finished by ordering a new belt. Cleaned the accumulated lint out of the blower / filter body since I was in there anyway. This is the second time I'm putting new Teflon, and the first time I'm putting new rear rollers and shafts. I've never let the machine run on failing rollers by more than a few minutes here and there. The new parts will go in the next time the rollers begin to squeal, or if any rubbing is heard, indicating the Teflon glides may have failed first.

took the top and front off the dryer and had to route the new belt around the drum and through the pulleys, it was really easy and a heck of a lot cheaper then buying a new dryer

Called PartSelect, gave them the make and model number of the dryer and told them I needed a new belt for it. They gave me a price including shipment (under $20.00). I oreder the new belt and it arrived within a week. I also got an e-mail from PartSelect with a video showing how to replace the belt. This was very helpful. I was able to watch the video, take the dryer apart, replace the belt (after a few tries), and put the dryer back together. Problem solved! Thanks PartSelect.

Unplug the dryer. Take a large flat head screwdriver and pop the hood loose from the retaining brackets on the front of the dryer and raise.Next, unhook the wiring from the thermostat and heating element with needle nosed pliers located in the back left corner. Use a 5mm socket to remove the thermostat bracket and the heating element bracket.Remove faulty part and replace. Replace heating element and tighten.Replace thermostat on the retaining bracket and tighten. Plug your wires back in and close the hood.Plug Dryer back in.

Found an instructional, easy to follow video by PartSelect online. It was helpful to know what tools I needed before beginning the job. I first purchased only the belt. After taking the dryer apart, I saw the idler had also broke. It was very helpful that the parts arrived quickly. The video was the the greatest tool for doing this repair myself!!!!

Tools and materials:

#2 Philips head screw driver
Standard flat-tip screw driver
1/4" nut driver or ratchet
1/4" drive sockets: 1/4, 5/16
Something 3-4 inches thick to wedge under drum for support (i.e. scrap 4x4, soap bottle, books)

Replacement Procedures:

1. Unplug dryer from wall outlet
2. Pull out lint screen
3. Remove 2 Philips screws attaching lint trap to dryer top
4. Lift hinged dryer top panel near front and lean it back on wall. You may need to pry between side panels and top with flat-tip screw driver to get it started.
5. Disconnect plug from dryer door switch near front
6. Remove two 1/4" and two 5/16" hex screws inside front panel near top.
7. Open dryer door and lift front panel straight up to disengage tabs from slots near bottom of front panel.
8. While supporting drum with one hand, lift front panel and set aside with other hand.
9. Slip replacement belt around drum with ribs facing drum and position it where old belt left its mark.
10. Wedge something under drum to support it while installing the belt.
11. Re-position tensioner in two slots in bottom panel just in front of motor. On my model the bend in the spring will be on the right side with the idler pulley to the left, when viewed from the front.
12. Ensuring the belt isn't twisted, thread a small loop of it through the opening in the tensioner just below the pulley.
13. With the left hand, push against the tensioner spring while working the loop over the drive pulley.
14. While supporting drum with one hand, remove whatever you put under the drum to support it.
15. Replace front panel by aligning the slots with the tabs near the bottom and lowering it into place.
16. Carefully slip the drum opening over the flange on the front panel and replace hex screws.
17. Slowly roll the drum in one direction or the other until the belt aligns and centers itself.
18. Re-connect the plug for the dryer door switch.
19. Lower the dryer top and press until it snaps back into place.
20. Replace philips screws to secure lint trap and replace lint screen.
21. Plug dryer back into wall outlet, close door, set to dry, and press start.

just like the training video showed, and was very happy at how it came fast, installed easy and back in the drying business.

I watched the video and did the repair myself. My husband, who works in maintenance, was IMPRESSED! Yay! Thank You!!!! Love you guys! I am forwarding your website to my children!

followed u tube videos (several) did not find exact model. took dryer outside to disassemble and "clean out" with air hose and shop vac. Easily got it apart and replaced rollers,belt. to reassemble the idler unit was nearly impossible to reset as the motor and fan assembly is in FRONT very hard to see and get hands in. So, took my cut off wheel op grinder and "removed" the lower louvers on back. Viola simple as pie!

first I took a flat head screw driver to pop the top of the dryer open, and then removed the screws from the lint tray. Next I lifted the lip back making sure it was supported by the wall behind. Third I removed the front of the unit by removing the bolts attached on both ends of the top of the unit. I then opened the door and removed the screws on the right top side of the lining of the door to the switch. Then I carefully held onto the tub while lifting the front face of the unit to remove the face of the dryer. After carefully removing the face I released the tub and set it aside. Then I picked up the tension pulley set it back in its slot followed by placing the belt rib side down around the tub. Next step was to place the tub back in the unit making sure the felt was in place and then I ran the belt back through the tension pulley applying tension in order to get the belt back onto the motor making sure the ribs of the belt aligned up with the ribs on the motors belt drive wheel. After completing that I then grabbed the front panel of the dryer unit and gently replaced the panel making sure that the slots and hooks lined up while placing the tub back in alignment of front panel. Once that was complete I replaced the screws in the door switch followed by replacing the bolts in the inside of the top comer of the front panel till hand tight. Last but not least I slid the lint tray back in place in order to make sure screws did not fall in to the hole the lint tray occupies. After replacing the screws I then plugged in the dryer gave the tub a few spins with my hand to make sure it was in place correctly I gave it a test drive by leaving the door open and pressing the door switch shutting off the light in the unit so it since the door was shut and turn the unit on for a cycle for at least one minute to see if the tub rolled freely on its own. All was good and only took 12 minutes to change and replace part. Easley can be done by any DIY first timers. Me I work with all kinds of units but the older units are easy and no need for a tech I promise.