ADE20L4A Admiral Dryer - Instructions

Your customer service was great, but your video wasn't particularly helpful because of the extreme age of my dryer. For one thing, with these really old dryers, you don't have to slide the drum out at all; you just unscrew the front panel and slip the belt in that way. The printed diagram that came with the belt helped me figure how the belt slips through the pulley assembly, but the drawing could have been more clear. In spite of my bickering, I probably saved $50 fixing it myself.

Disconnect electric power, the top & cabinet are connected by 2 reusable locks about 4 inches from each front corner, use a thin flat putty knife or similar object, push inward on a lock while lifting gently on the front of the top piece, then let the top rest against the wall. ( a wire on each end of a safety switch for the dryer door may need disconnected) Remove a screw from each front corner of the cabinet, then pull upward on the loose front panel to access the drive motor, remove old belt. install new belt by lifting the front of the drum just high enough to allow the new belt, place groves of belt against the drum and around the motor pulley and belt tensioner, re-install cabinet front, (re-connect safety switch wires) return top and push down at cabinet locks.

It was really easy I watched your video on how to do it the video went step by step and was very helpful

I watched a part select youtube video on possible fixes for the problem I was having. Ten minutes and two videos later I had the part out and identified as the problem. I ordered the part ($42.00) which arrived four days later. Spent ten minutes replacing it in machine, turned dryer on and went right back to performing the way it has for the last 12 years. Easiest thing I did all day. Saved me $400 bucks too. Thank you.

Watch the video you sent me, and every thing fell into place

Took less than five minutes to fix a couple screws and take some wires off and pull it right out. Called local apliance store if they had part wanted more than partselect with next day shipping

What a pain in the butt to route the belt thru the tensioner! There's room for only one hand in there. The guys who do this for a living must have some secret. My solution was to drill a 3/16 hole thru the side, make a j-hook from 8-32 threaded rod, use that and a wing nut to pre-load the tensioner, route the belt, then slowly back off the wing nut until the belt was tight. It works. . . .

Pop off the top , Then one screw holds each side . slide belt around drum and then preload tensioner as per instructions . Simple!

I opened the lid and using the Nut driver removed the old High limit Thermostat.Then repalces the new one, replaced the lid and plugged in the dryer.It still did not start.I then found the fuse hiddden on the side of the heater element, testd the fuse on it was blown. I placed an order for the fuse.

I follow the instructions from the video sent to me with the email to tell me my new belt was shipped. Made the whole job go a easy as could be. Parts Select made fixing my dryer so simple and I also got the belt within 2 days. I recommend buying parts only from you! Glenn

After I received the new belt I un-plugged the electric cord and shut off the gas supply. I pulled the dryer about 10 inches away from the wall to remove the vent duct from the back of the dryer. Used the putty knife to release the clips on bottom front panel and a screw driver to pop the front of the top at the left side and right side, removed the two Phillips head screws under the lint door, then lifted the top to the vertical position. Loosened the hex head screws at the bottom of the upper front panel (don't take them out). At the top back side of the front panel, pull off the electrical wires from the door interlock switch and pull the retainer holding the wires to the front panel (don't take the plastic clip from the wires.) Place some wood blocks to support the drum at the front of the drum. Use the nut driver to remove the two screws on the inside at the top of the front panel. Disconnect the two springs that hold the door closed. Lift the panel from the two loosened nuts at the bottom and pull it away from the drum and let the drum settle on the blocks of wood to support it. Place the new belt around the drum lining it up where the old belt left its mark around the drum with the grooved surface facing the drum. Replace the front upper panel with the door to engage to two tabs on the screws you left at the bottom. Lift the drum so that it engages with the opening in the front panel. In case where the drum had dropped too far, use the putty knife to engage the felt flange at the rear of the drum with the rear cabinet flange. Reinstall the two screws at the top that you had removed. Reconnect the two wires at the interlock switch and snap the clip with the wires to the flange of the upper front panel. Replace the door springs on the hinge extensions to the flange at the bottom of the cabinet. Set the Idler pulley assembly into the cabinet floor sliding the end tab into the slot and the two tabs fit into the holes in the floor. Pull a loop of the belt under the idler pulley and then pull it toward the motor pulley. You might use the shaft of your Phillips screw driver instead of you fingers to get it around the pulley on the motor shaft. Turn the drum by had for several complete turns to ensure that the belt lines up on the drum and that the drum isn't binding on the back or front seals. Close the top, snapping onto the top of the cabinet. Plug the dryer into the electric outlet and set the timer to Fluff Air range and push the start button with the door closed. The drum should be turning smoothly. Open the door and all should stop. Reconnect the Vent and move the dryer back to its former position. Turn gas supply on but do not start the dryer. Check for gas leaks. If you find a leak in either at connectors or the flexible connecter call a qualified contractor to replace the flex connecter. Otherwise you can then set for one of the dryer settings and push the start button and observe the burner through the lower panel to see that the igniter is lighting up and finally the gas turns on and a decent blue flam is burning in the combustion tube. Open the dryer door and the flame should cut off and the drum stop turning. You are ready to set the bottom panel. Set the panel on the two lower tabs and close it upward until the snaps lock it in position. Job Done

I watched your video and it was exactly like you guys said. You truly have a great site and I will tell all my friends about it. Great service, can't say enough about how pleased I am with your site and service. Saved me a lot of money.

TURN OFF POWER TO DRYER............................. Pay attention to where everything is as you take it apart, so it can be put back the same way. Take out the two screws by the lint screen. Use flat tip screwdriver between space in front of top to help lift top. Use rag on tip of screwdriver so as not to scratch it. Take out two screws inside the front panel at the top. One on each side. Unhook the switch wiring. Lift up the front panel to take off. The tub will be loose, so it can be taken out to inspect other components. Some call the tub a drum. Be sure to see how the belt tensioner is attached, so it can be put back on the same way, if it comes loose. It is under the tub. Take out old belt. Put new belt around tub. Make sure the tub sets on the two rollers in the back of dryer. While holding tub, put the belt around the grooved pulley on the motor. Grooves are face down against the tub. Feed belt through the tensioner. Put the bottom of front in on the tabs. Be sure belt is still in place around pulley and tensioner etc. Hold tub through front door and close front. Put the two screws back in on each side. Close top and put the two screws in at the lint screen. Done. Turn power back on. Turn on dryer to see if it operates properly. If not, check out your repair to see if everything is connected properly.

Used PartSelect instructions for routing belt & a customer's valuable guidance.

I removed screws for the lint screen - TOP. Pry up top with screw driver. Disconnected inside top front 2 screws, removed door control wires, white and blue. Lift off front of dryer. Tip dryer back about 40 degrees against wall. Remove warn belt (not broken). Relocate idler bracket on the cabinet base, follow diagram which comes with the belt package. Be very careful that the belt is NOT on the side of the idler roller. I had to do this install a second time, because I had it wrong the first time. Even though I've done this repair 5 or 6 times, there's always a first time GOOF. Not really a hard job.