ADE20K3CKDW Admiral Dryer - Instructions

I am a teacher and teaching is my game. I have always, with my four children, taught them to do mechanical work themselves. I and most of my children have a PhD, but in having said that, I confess, we come from a very mechanically talented family. It shows and proves to be of great benefit.
OK, so much for the intro.

I gave my daughter the tools and said, "What do you think is wrong with the dryer and where would you start?" She tested it and said, "The motor is running, but the tub is not turning thus I conclude it is the belt because I can hear the motor running eliminating that as a cause.

She then opened the top, looked around and removed two screws from the lint catcher. She looked it over, looked a me, I shrugged my shoulders and she then took a rubber hammer and popped the top off. Don't ask me how she knew that, but I think she saw the rubber pins through the crack between the case and top. She raised the top after removing two screws in back to relieve the simple hinge and also disconnected the wiring clip and sure enough, the broken belt was inside the cabinet. We called you, the best, fastest and most accurate service on the Internet and ordered a replacement. I would like to add, the price is always more than fair and delivery very prompt.

When the part came, my daughter took it up to our laundry room and within twenty minutes, she tested it and everything was fine. She did smell a little burning smell which might be attributed to a new belt or the fact that there was no clothing in the dryer.
Thank you so very much.
Dr Robert E McGinnis

I suspected (correctly) that the thermostat was malfunctioning so I ordered the Heating Element Kit. This repair would have taken less than 15 minutes if I would not have dropped one of the sheet metals screws in the back of the dryer when re-installing the heating element.

I (1)unplugged the unit from the power source. (2)popped the top loose at the front corners with a screwdriver. (3)removed the single 1/4 inch hexhead screw holding the thermal limiter mount from the top of the heating element box with a 1/4 inch nutdriver. (4)removed the two wires connected to the limiter. (5)removed the two 1/4 inch hexhead screws that mount the limiter to the holder. (6)replaced the old limiter with the new one. (7)replaced the two limiter holding screws. (8)replaced the wires on the same terminals as they were removed from. (9)removed the screw holding the heating element in the box. (10)removed the element from the box by moving it to the rear slightly, lifting it up on the side the mounting screw is on and withdrawing the holding tab on the other side from the hole it passes through. (11)removed the thermal fuse holder by pulling upward on the thermal fuse mount until the thermal fuse and mount released and lifted them out of the side of the element box together. (12)removed the wires from the thermal fuse. [[>note< wires are threaded through thermal fuse mount]] (13)reconnected wires to themal fuse. (14)there are no bolts holding the fuse to it's mount, so I used a piece of masking tape to hold the fuse in place temporarily while aligning it with the mounting holes in the side of the element box, and snapped the mount, and the fuse into place with a downward motion while holding pressure on the mount in the direction of the box then removed the tape. (15)replaced the heating element into the box by threading the mounting tab into the hole it passes through while holding the element slightly to the rear of the box and lowering into place. (16)replaced the screw that holds the heating element in the box with the 1/4 inch nutdriver. (17)located the thermal limiter and its mount on the tab over the top of the heating element box, and replaced the mounting screw with the 1/4 inch nutdriver. (18)made sure all wires were secured in the clearance clips provided lowered the top and snapped it into place with equal downward pressure on the front of the top. (19)plugged in the power cord. (20)Tested machine (FIN)

removed front cover, lifted drum up with a clamp and replaced slides. Replaced front cover

When online& found website... trouble shot for problem per previous posts on PART SELECT.GREAT SITE for problem ifo.I ordered parts,they arrived 2 days later and within 1/2 an hour I had our dryer repaired and working like new!!THANKS!!!

Finally got tired to greasing the wheels only to have to do it again so I sprung for new wheels and shafts. Popped the top open, removed the drum, installed the two new shafts with supplied screws then attached the wheels. Figured I'd change out the original belt while I was at it even though the old one still looked good. It's nice and quiet again, plus it give me a chance to clean it out.

I popped the top off and tipped the dry over . It took 2 to reposition the drum and belt back after taking it out and remving the old wheel and replacing it.

I just used screw driver to pop of clip put new roller on poped clip back on

Had to disassemble most of the dryer including pulling dryer drum in order to get to drum support rollers. Not a real difficult repair, just time consumming because of amount of parts needing to be removed inorder to get to rollers.

Very simple-remove 3 screws that hold the Control Panel on, remove the two connectors and replace with new part in reverse order. Unfortunately, this did not fix the problem. Will be ordering complete timer assembly.

Opened up every panel EXCEPT the front, then discovered how easy that is. Replacement belt was a snap to install. I noticed some plastic collar thing on the driveshaft appeared to have melted. Did not appear to be critical part, so I put it together and tested it out. Seems to work fine. I think the collar is there to prevent the belt from potentially slipping off the driveshaft.

googled"dryer not heating". landed on partsselect.com. checked parts like website said with multimeter. pointed to thermostat. ordered it, replaced it, it works now.

Replaced the thermal shut off and the thermistor located on the heating element bracket.
Easy to diagnose and to replace- not totally accessable but not that bad either. Cleaned out lint obstruction causing the problem.

Once we realized we needed to take the FRONT off the dryer, not the back all went well. It was an easy fix and the part fix perfectly. Instead of $60 or more for a repairman, we spent less than $20 fixing the dryer.

first I went online and took a look at the schematic and realized that two items can shut the complete unit down and would be easy to check. First I checked the door switch with a multimeter then the high limit non-resettable thermostat. The contacts on the thermostat were open which told me it was bad. Went online to www.partselect.com and found the part really easily. came in when they said it would and it was a perfect match to the original (part numbers on the side and eveything). Make sure you correct the problem that caused the unit to overheat in the first place. IN my case the dryer air passages were full of lint. After a good cleaning put it all back together and it worked better than it has in years.