ADE20K3CKDH Admiral Dryer - Instructions

1. Unplug dryer from power outlet
2. Lift dryer top from front (hinged in rear). Just friction holding top down. Use flat scewdriver wrapped in cloth to help lift.
3. Locate heating element - rear top behind drum
4. Unplug red wires to the high limit thermal fuse
5. Unplug red wires to the heating element
6. Unlug white wires to the high limit fuse
7. Remove high limit thermal fuse
8. Remove heating element
9. Remove high limit fuse
10 Clean heating box
Installation is reverse order but do the following first!
Clean lint trap - Remove front of dryer
1. Unplug white door switch wires. inside front top right
2. remove two screws securing the front of dryer - inside front top left and top right. Front of dryer is hinged at bottom
3. Clean all the lint you can find. If you have never cleaned out the lint, there might be a lot and the cause of over heating (shorting fuse life). Add to your yearly things to do list.
4. While your at it check the alignment of the plastic glides the drum sits on.
5. Also check the foam gasket between the fan housing and lint trap. Mine was off a bit. Realigned with doubled sided tape.

I was about to purchase a new dryer because of the age of my dryer and not wanting to hire someone to fix it. After a little web research, I saw several do-it -yourself stories indicating this was a very easy repair.

This was an extremely easy repair and it save me lots of $$:
(1) Disconnected power
(2) Opened the top of the dryer
(3) Disconnected wires to temperature sensor.
(4) Used a 1/2" socket wrench with extension and a drill to remove 2 screws holding down the temperature sensor
(5) Removed 1 screw holding down the heating element.
(6) Removed wires connected to heating element and pulled out old element.
(7) Reassembled new element.
(8) Turned on empty dryer for 30 minutes to burn off smell from the new element.

Worked like a charm!

1. Removed the screws from the lint catcher
2. Removed the bolts from upper rear of dryer
3. Pried off the dryer top from the front (it rests on rear hinges)
4. Disconnected dryer door wiring
5. Removed bolt from inside upper front corners; removed front panel (be careful: the edges are sharp and the tumbler will fall when it loses support)
6. Removed broken belt and lint from interior parts; removed tensioner (which had fallen out of place). Note: The newer models have a tensioner pulley; my older model had a smooth semicircle that was confusing at first glance
7. Flipped dryer onto its back (for easier reinsertion of new belt and tumbler)
8. Placed new belt on tumbler; reinserted tumbler
9. Inserted new belt through tensioner, inserted tensioner "legs" into grooves on floor. Note: The belt will pull the tensioner upright when it's inserted properly (which isn't obvious at first)
10. Made sure belt and tumbler seal were properly installed
11. Replaced parts in reverse order
The process took over an hour because I couldn't figure out how to insert the belt through the tensioner. The trick is to insert the folded belt through the tensioner and onto the motor pulley. If I had to do it again, it would take about 30 minutes (including cleaning lint)

Started out taking the back off, then found online that access is from the front and much easier to get to. Simply pop the hinges in the back of the top panel and then the front of the top is popped off. From there, it is easy to remove the old belt, clean the innards (found 31 cents) and replace the new belt. It was a little disconcerting to see the idler pulley laying loose inside, but the diagram showed exactly how to put it back in place, with the new belt keeping it in place.

I opened the dryer from the front by pushing in on the two clips just under the top. I then had to remove two screws on each side and took the front panel off. I reached around underneath on the right side to slip the belt off the pulley. I pulled the drum out and then I could see the roller that was squeaking (the left one). The wheel had sheared some of the support off and that was the cause of the squeak.

I took the locking ring off and removed the wheel and support. I put the new support in, attached it, and then the wheel, washer and lock ring. I used pliers to push the lock ring onto the support.

Then I put the drum back in making sure it was in all the way (it fits snugly between the wheel and the back of the dryer). The belt is a little tricky to get back on. I put it around the drum and then reached underneath and behind again. The pulley is on a spring, so you have to pull it up and put the belt on all one-handed and blind. Once that was on, I gave it a few turns to make sure everything was working again.

It is quiet as can be now!

First I made sure the unit was unplugged. I popped the top of the unit with a slotted screw driver, lifted the top up and rested it against the wall behind the dryer. I removed the two screws - one on each side in front on top of the dryer cabinet. Then I tipped back the front panel of the dryer slightly with the door of the dryer closed. I unclipped the door switch with a slotted screw driver and then lifted the entire front panel including the door off of the the two floor clips on bottom. I set the front panel aside. Next I lifted the large drum slightly to dislodge the rollers in back and slid the drum back slowly while sliding the thin belt back on the drum until the drum was out of the unit and the belt was detached and loose. Then I cleaned the unit thoroughly, vacuumed all lint and dirt and wiped down the outside of the large drum with mineral spirits to make sure it was totally clean and smooth. Then I removed the two rollers and the roller shafts at the back of the unit following the directions enclosed. My slip-ring pliers came in handy to remove the retaining rings on the roller shafts. I replaced the rollers and roller shafts and the supplied washers and spacers as per the instructions. I sprayed a little WD-40 on the surface of the rollers and it stopped all squeaking and vibration of the drum. Next I replaced the front drum pads and runners as per the instructions. I then slid the drum back in place taking care to slide the new belt back around the drum in the same position as the old belt. Now came the difficult part - laying on the floor and reaching under the drum I positioned the belt around the motor shaft and tension pulley. This must be done by "feel" and must be done correctly!! Follow the instructions on the positioning of the belt very carefully and make sure it is in the correct position on the drum, motor shaft, and tension pulley! Next, get up and rock the drum up and down slightly to make sure it has engaged the two rear rollers properly. Rotate the drum manually one or two turns to make sure the belt is in the correct position. Then replace the front door panel by dropping it onto the two clips at the base of the unit and taking care to replace the door switch in reverse order of taking it out. Then replace the two screws at the top front on each side of the unit to secure the front panel. Lower the top of the unit back in place, plug in the dryer, turn it on and enjoy the lack of noise you have created.

Lifted the top lid, removed hold down screws removed wires, replaced old components, easy as pie, perfect match for parts!

Popped the two latches at the front of the machine inorder to raise the lid/cover. Found the part just above and behind the drum. Removed the screws, disconnected the wires and replaced the parts. I did have to remove the heating coils, but that was easy too. No wonder the Maytag repair man has nothing to do! Thank you Partselect.com. Not only did you ship the part to my house fast, but it was just as expensive if not cheaper than going out for it. Plus, I found instructions for the repair on your forums. Thanks again, you have a customer for life!

I removed the top and front panel. I first cleaned all the lint from the bottom of the lint trap which clogged the vent and caused the dryer to overheat. Then I replaced the high limit thermostat and thermal fuse. Bingo!! Worked good as new.

First of all, you go in from the front. There a clip on each side that I just pried up to pop the front of the dryer up. A screw also needs to be removed in the lint catcher area. Also, two screws holding the door open switch must be removed as I never could get the electrical connectors to disconnect. No big deal. I had to figure out you must lift the front of the dryer up as the last two things holding it in are a prong on each side. Lift the front up and off and set it aside. As you do this the drum will either fall on your feet or you'll have it supported be another person or with something else. I used bungee cords and kept it in the laundry room. Cleaned out all the old lint, collected a few bucks in change. It took me awhile to figure out how the new belt routed through the removable pulley guide thing and around the wheel pulley. I don't remember right now as I'm not looking at it but remember pinching the belt and feeding it through the guide and around the wheel pulley which has a little slot and grooves matching the belt. Besides scrapping my wife's hand while she was helping me get the front of the dryer back on there were no casualties or further complications. Good luck!

Disconnected supply. Lifted top (hinges on rear). removed two 1/4 hex head screws retaining front panel. Disconnected door switch wires. Removed front panel, lifting off from bottom tabs. Lifted out drum and discarded broken belt. Spent 30 minutes+ cleaning interior, drum skid area, dryer exit tube, motor pulley, belt tensioner, etc, etc. Checked wiring harness for possible damage (no damage found). Repositioned drum skid pads, which had become dislodged from their intended position. Reinstalled the drum with new belt, ensuring both belt & tensioner were correctly positioned, and drum rollers and felt seals were also correctly positioned. Reinstalled front panel, tightening the two 1/4 hex head retaining screws. Reconnected power. Checked functionality. Closed top cover.

This repair could not have been easier. I went to the web site, answered a few questions and read a few examples of the repair, ordered the parts suggested and in a few days the parts arrived at my home. I opened the top of my dryer with a long handled screw driver, as suggested in the instructions, and vacuumed out the lint around the part. I called my handy son who brought over the correct tools and we followed the instructions sheet that came with the part and repaired my dryer in about 15 minutes total. It works just as it should and I am so happy. I only paid $39.00 including Shipping and Handling to repair my Maytag dryer and it works like new. Thanks to PartSelect.com! I don't think I'll ever call a repair service again.

There are a total of six screws that have to be removed to do this job.
Take the lint tray out and remove the first two screws.
Secondly, remove the lower panel in the front of the dryer. You do this by inserting a screwdriver at the top portion and pry it off. Next, loosen the two screws under the top panel in the front of the dryer.
Now take your screwdriver and pry up the top lid of the dryer. The last two screws are in the inside of the front panel. They hold together the front and side panels. Remove them and be sure you have a support for under the dryer drum. (once you remove the front panel, the drum no longer has a way to stay suspended)
(Make sure you disconnect the wires attached to the front door, making note of which wire goes where.)
At this point, You can follow the easy instructions that come with your new belt.
If you have a little mechanical aptitude, this is a very easy project.

This repair was so easy a sleeping Turtle could do it. You just remove the wiring from the old unit and remember which wire is on which terminal. Easily remove the old unit and replace it. Reattach the wires and you are done! Maytag is a very easy unit to work with. Just remember if you ever have to replace your Terminal Block, don't forget to order the brass nuts to attach the wires. Regular nuts will overheat and cause a fire hazard.

Opened top of dryer and found high limit thermostat burned in half. Thermostat is located on top of element. Replacement of thermostat took less than 10 minutes, using phillips head screwdriver.