ADB2500AWS Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

unwrapped wheels ,pulled out drawer and easily put on new wheels...as we live way out in the boonies it was great to be able to order parts and have them delivered so fast...easy to fix....

I had to force the door open, due to a broken handle/latch.
Ordered assembly with help of order desk to assure correct part number. Arrived within 3 to 4 days. Not sure but very fast. Only had to wash dishes by hand once.
Turned off power to dishwasher, my electrical panel is clearly marked with switch for dishwasher. No guess work there.
3 min. to remove old assy. 3 min. to replace with new part.
I might add that I am a 67yr. old female. So if I can handle this repair, anyone can.
Saved repairman service call, or purchasing a new dishwasher.

Most of the time was spent pulling out the dishwasher from under the counter, as a new tile floor had been installed after the DW was installed.

Great pictures of components on this website confirmed what part to order.

Shut off water feed to DW and disconnect power to DW.

Unplug wire connector to old valve (solenoid) and disconnect water inlet hose. Observe that valve is attached to sheet metal bracket.

Remove bracket, with valve attached. Don't remove valve from bracket. New valve comes with sheet metal bracket.

Remove female threaded adaptor (brass) from back of old valve and screw on to new valve using Teflon tape. That is the only piece you need to reuse.

Attached the new bracket (with valve attached) to DW. Attach water inlet hose. Attach plug to new valve.

Turn on water to DW. Check for leaks. Retighten hose connection if required. Run dishwasher. Keep lower panel off for a couple of days to be certain no leaks develop.

Removed the screws on the door of the dishwasher, lifted up inside of door to get to the latch assembly, unplugged the 2 sets of wires, removed the old broken latch. To install new latch did all of the above in opposite order.
Very simple, quick easy fix. The only thing that might be an issue for some people is that you need a set or torx head screw drivers. (nice little set at Home Depot for less than $10. I'd say.)

You have to pull the dishwasher out from underneath the counter and set it on its side. Before removing, I used a shop vac to remove any standing water from inside the dishwasher. Once I pulled out the dishwasher, I then tilted the dishwasher forward to let remaining water fall on the floor, again, using the wet vac for clean up. After it is on its side, I used a socket wrench to remove the one bolt that holds the drain valve on. Then I used a socket wrench to loosen the clamp for the drain hose and removed the hose. You then need to turn the entire drain valve 1/4 of a turn counter-clockwise to remove the old drain valve. Once it is off, remove the bracket from the old drain and attach it to the new drain valve using a phillips screwdriver. Before I reassambled the drain valve, I used my wet vac to remove any debree from where the drain valve connects to the dishwasher. Reverse the prior steps to install new drain valve and install dishwasher back under the counter. I tested the unit before installing the dishwasher back under the counter to insure it fixed the problem. The hardest part about doing this, was actually taking the dishwasher out from under the counter, very easy process in general. One thing I couldn't figure out about my original problem of the water not completely draining out, is why would the drain valve start draining the water then after 20 seconds it would stop? I couldn't find the answer, so I assumed the drain valve is like a 2 stage system and took a chance on replacing the drain valve; it worked.

I ordered and replaced both the door gasket (easy) and inner door seal (difficult) to try and correct a leak during operation. The door gasket was easily replaced. However, the inner door seal was a bit more trouble. After removing the inner door I found that the old inner seal needed to be removed and surfaces thoroughly cleaned of old build-up of dishwasher soap residue, in order to allow the sticky back tape side of door seal to properly stick to the door. There also was a plastic cover over the wire bundle that needed to be cleaned. The inner door seal was the exact length, so proper positioning of the sticky back was very important.
Upon reassemly the leak still existed and I was unable to correct the leak. Further inspection indicated that the basic tub/body of the dishwasher might be slightly distorted due to age and may not create seal with door seal as originally designed.
I guess I need to find a new dishwasher, at this point.
A word to the wise: Check to see if the tub/body is still in good condition.

Remove the racks top and bottom. The Station D seals are at the far back on the tube that supplies water to the top and middle spray heads. Unsnap the old one and snap in the new - it only goes one way! This will repair the seal aroound the tube that supplies the middle sprayer and restore pressure to all 3 heads. Repalcing the screen accumulator is harder. you need a torx driver. remove the little thumb nut on the bottom sprayer and remove the sprayer. Then remove the tube where you just replaced the D station. (You of course could have done this earlier if you were doing both repairs) then 6 screws on the impeller housing. Now remove the 1 torx screw on the impeller and pull the impeller up and off. Remove the 3 screws on the cover and 2 screws on the accumulator. Clean all the old food scraps that are clogging up the works and reassemble in reverse order. Washer is working again!!

Snapped on new wheels

I separated the door from the interior door liner by unscrewing the "torx" screws along the edge of the door interior (about 12 screws). I unscrewed the circuit board cover and removed the old circuit board and disconnected the wiring harnesses that attached to the circuit board. I reconnected the wiring harnesses to the new circuit board, put the circuit board back into its holder and cover and reattached the door liner to the door. I flipped the house circuit breaker for the dishwasher power on and turned the dishwasher on. It works like a charm!

Easy to do. Order the handle (with latch assembly) rather than the latch assembly. It's cheaper and it contains both parts (handle and latch). Turn off the power. Use a T20 star tool to remove the screws inside the door. The latch assembly will fall right out as it uses the screws holding on the door. The hardest part is getting enough nerve to pull the two electrical plugs out. They are really tight and need some pulling with pliers. You might want to put a dot on the wire connector with a sharpie so you can put it back in the right side up. Connect the wires to the new assembly, place in door, put screws back in. Turn on the power. Done. I called a repair place and asked for a estimate for this job: $150-200 with parts. I did it in 10 minutes for $30 worth of parts.

Stuck new wheel on, time to find and order part on partselect 2 min, time to open package and install part 1 min.

Total job 3min.

First I removed the lower spray arm by removing the middle retainer nut. Next remove the 3 screws holding the outer shroud in place. Next remove 6 screws holding the water pump top housing in place. Under this housing you will find the impeller which is retained by a screw. Check the impeller closely for cracks especially near the center hex portion of the impeller. Replace if you have any doubt of it's integrity. Next remove the lower pump housing that has the screen material in the center. What I found was the nylon part that attaches to the shaft of the motor was stripped so the impeller would spin in it's normal direction ( counterclockwise) but under the load of water it would not. So I ordered a new impeller and seal kit with a metal sleeve and chooper blade. Follow the instructions provided in the new kit a reassemble accordingly.

I had to remove the 4 screws holding the toe panel. Then I had to take out the one screw holding the floater switch housing in place. It snapped open to release the floater and that just lifted out. I put the new float in and snapped the new housing on. I put the screw back in to hold the housing in place attached the two wires to the switch and put the toe panel back on. It was all very easy to do and my first home repair went very well. thank you.

I went to PartSelect and found the parts pictorial. A replacement motor was listed for 3 series of the dishwasher. The series can be identified by the first 2 digits of the dishwasher serial number. Mine was 22 so I needed parts for the series 20 dishwasher.

According to the pictorial it looked like the motor seals were included with the replacement motor. When the motor arrived, I found the seals were not included. I called PartSelect and they shipped the seals to me with free overnight delivery.

I had no trouble disassembling the wash manifold and spray parts using the instructions provided with the replacement motor and the instructions from the Maytag repair manual that I found online. The motor is removed from the inside of the tub.... very nice. You don't need to remove the dishwasher from under the counter in order to get at the motor.

I made a mental note of the orientation of the faulty motor before I removed it. I installed the replacement motor with the same orientation along with the wash parts. The dishwasher worked successfully.

Thank you PartSelect.

After repairing this dishwasher 5 times during the past 8 years this one was real easy: Open door, unscrew inside cover and carefully move over to one side. Unplug soap dispenser, unscrew soap dispenser and remove. Fit new dispenser, reconnect it, put inner cover back in its place and secure it with the retained screws and you are back in operation. Hans.