ADB1500AWB - Instructions

the new dishrack fit right in immediately with no tools needed. Delivery was prompt

Having read some of the other stories on this site, and not really sure what subpart was ACTUALLY broken, I ordered the latch assembly rather than the latch - and as another user mentioned, it's actually cheaper. I

Installation was an absolute breeze - the drill/driver is just added hedonism - but if you are going to use one, make sure it has a variable clutch so that you can put it on one fo the loosest settings to avoid stripping the screws.

I open the dishwasher door and held it open with a heavy pot and removed the screws (about 14) around the edge of the inside panel in the door.
The panel lifts way easily (if you remove the pot). The panel is attached to the latch assembly by two wiring harnesses - make note of which goes to which, they ARE IDENTICAL and you will not be able to tell them apart later.
I just lifted the broken assembly out, and fished out the other shards
Next, after repeated attempts to remove the harness from the switches in the assembly and failing, I just swapped the old switches still attached to the harness into the new assembly.
Place the assembly back in its slot, the panel fits back on fairly easily, drive the screws back in without stripping, and enjoy the silky feeling of a latch that shuts again
Enjoy beer

The initial repair was more involved due to figuring out how to get at the problem. A foam sealer strip located at the bottom of the inner door had lost it's seal. I first sent off for one and it was of relatively thin material. It was carefully installed but still leaked. I ordered another one from Part Select and it had thicker foam. It was installed right over the previously installed strip and made a tight seal. (knock on wood)

I pulled the unit from under the counter. the springs and cables are on the front sides of the dishwasher. I moved the insulation removed the broken spring and cables and replaced them with the new parts. just one side was broken, but I replaced both while I had the unit out.

I removed the 11 screws that hold the plastic inner liner to the outer sheet metal of the door. The latch will be right there, and very easy to access. I Just removed the two connectors for the wires, which are a bit stubborn, and used a pliers for leverage to get them off the latch. Installed them on the new latch, and put the door halves back together, and ran the 11 screws back in. A side note, I have noticed that on the plastic front panel that houses the buttons, that there are two plastic tabs that are cast into the unit, that are chronically broken. They are there to help hold the latch solid when you put the two halves of the door together. I have been really easy on the door, but they still break, but it seems to work pretty well without the tabs intact. This happened to me twice, because I replaced the front upper panel on it, and the same thing happened again. Engineering issue I assume. Overall, a quick and simple install.

It was very simple. After disconnecting the dishwasher, I pulled it out from it's space under the cabinet and turned it over on it's side. The pump twists into place and is held by two small bolts. It's very easy to get to and nothing else needs to be taken apart or disconnected. Used some silicon sealant to hold in place after replacing the pump and waited 24 hours to run. The pump was the problem and the dishwasher now runs fine.

Removed plastic lining from dishwasher door with torx screwdriver, then removed screw holding door latch assembly in place. Removed existing switch from door latch assembly and replaced.

This switch was not the correct one initially as it was a normally closed switch, whereas the existing switch was a normally open. Was able to pry open the switch and switch the contacts to normally open so it worked out in the end. Would recommend purchasing the complete latch assembly w/ switches if you aren't comfortable taking the switch apart.

first i removed eight torx (t-20) size screws...from the inner door . Then the wired harness surrounding the latch handle...( just a warning..im very very handy..esp with electric and got a little too cocky....pls make sure you turn off the power to the dishwasher...and avoid being zapped as i did ok?) the replacement part snapped in perfectly and was actually better quality than the maytag original...all it took then was to put the eight screws back and the washer was up and running in about 1o mins..

Looks like Maytag knew this was a problem. My chopper sleeve (plastic) was stripped and causing the impeller to not spin. The replacement part was all metal and was very easy to replace the old one just by removing screws. The replacement looks to be very sturdy and should last a lot longer than the original. Thanks.

I removed the screws, and unplugged the old part, plugged in the new part and screwed it back in. It was so easy it took about 10 minutes. I surprised my husband when he came home to repair it, it was finished by me!!

took the bottom spray arm & lower plastic pieces out, unscrewed the impeller & replaced it. the original impeller which holds the disposal blade down & wore down & no longer retained the blade. snap.

Once I got the door open, I removed the door cover screws with a Torx driver, where I found the broken handle and the Latch Assembly. One of the plastic handle pivot points had broken clean off. In my Brilliance, I went online to PartSelect, found that the part that I needed had been discontinued (from Maytag) and picked one that looked right. It ended up being the assembly without the handle, the part I needed. Save yourself some time and call the 800 number to make sure you get what you need. They were very helpfull in returning the wrong part to get the right one. Once I had the part, the repair was very straightforward. I just had to open the door up again, swap in the new Latch Assembly with the steel reinforced pivot point handle, and put the screws back in the door. The latch assembly is held in place by two of the door screws. Watch the cut off switches on the assembly, the power is hot until you power off the circut at the electric panel.

Simply popped the new cover in. My part by the way was really easy to identify on the website, easy to order and arrived in a very timley fashion!

I removed the lower wash arm held by a single center plastic coated nut with pliers.

I then removed the six pump housing screws and the three filter cover screws.

This allows access to the pump impeller which is held by one screw. Once it is removed the filter plate, chopper and motor seal can be removed.

I actually had done this before to find a noise. At the time I noticed the impeller had become shorter due to plastic breaking off the impeller. It still fit the motor shaft so I just cleaned out the plastic and screwed it back on. I did not check for water leakage until I noticed loose flooring material a couple weeks later.

This is the mistake I made. The impeller is made so it presses down upon the motor shaft seal expanding it to seal out water. Because the impeller was missing the lower skirt it was too short to but enough pressure upon the seal to stop leakage.
Never use a impeller which is damaged in any way.

Due to this error I have had to buy a motor assy also. It was destroyed by the water.

First of all I shut the power off to the dishwasher at the breaker box. Turn the water off to the dishwasher. Unhook the water line and then remove the screws that go around the outside trim edge of the dihwasher that secures it to the cabinets. Then you will want to look at the adjustable legs on the dishwasher. You may need to lower the legs to get the dishwasher out from underneath the counter top. While you are doing this you should also pay attention to your drain hose. My drain hose had plenty of slack so I was able to pull my dishwasher out from underneath the cabinet and then unhook it. You should have towels or a bucket in place to catch any water that is inside the drain hose. Next I laid the dishwasher over on its left side and I was able to access the pump. I then used a flat screw driver to remove the hose clamp and remov the drain hose from the pump. I then unplugged 1 wire connector and a bracket and could turn the pump counter clockwise and removed it from the dishwasher. There is a bracket that must be removed from the old pump to the new pump. Once this is accomplished You are ready to reinstall the new pump. I took a towel and wiped the area where the pump hooks into the dishwasher to make sure all debris was removed. I then used a very small amount of gasket sealer and placed it around the "O" Ring on the new pump. Next place the pump back in the whole and turn in a clock wise direction securing it back into the dishwasher. Hook up the drain hose and the wire connector. Make sure the bracket is postioned properly and you are ready to put dishwasher back under the counter.