ACF3375AB (PACF3375AB1) Amana Range - Instructions

removed inside bottom of oven, removed 2 screws that held the ignighter, pulled out the oven, removed one screw on small cover, unpluged old ignighter, removed old ignighter, pusned the wires through the back of the oven, plugged ity in, attached the nerw ignighter, and replaced the cover/ and the bottom of the oven.
i teted the oven before i closed everything to insure it would light.

Put the new pad in and it was done. Very easy.

Removed the lower base pan of the oven by unscrewing two phillips head screws. I then had access to the old igniter and removed that by removing the mounting screws (2 Phillips head screws). Continuity test revealed an open circuit. I simply replaced the old part with the new part, reversed the process and the oven was ready for use in less than 10 minutes.

I took the door off, then took the bottom out removed two screws, unplugged the old igniter and installed the new one. I turned on the oven and tested the new igniter and then replaced the bottom and oven door.

Diagnosed the issue by removing the bottom panel of the oven. (two little screws) Once the panel was out I turned the oven on with the door open to see what was happening.

Noticed that the heating element wasn't lighting up in order for the gas to ignite. Unplugged the oven and removed the heating element. Two screws hold the heating element in place. Removed those. Then, there is a panel on the back of the oven with one screw to remove. Once panel is removed you have easy access to the heating element connecting electric plug. Disconnect this plug by simply pulling apart.

Then, I was able to go back to the inside of the oven and slowly pull the heating element with plug out. The heating element had the part number on it. My oven is a Maytag which, is made by Whirlpool.

Went online to Whirlpool PartSelect and ordered my part. The part came in two days. Installed my new part and plugged in my oven to test the part. Part worked perfectly. Unplugged the oven and finished the installation process.

I removed the cartridge from the range and used a screw driver to remove the screws holding the burners assembly in the housing. (Some prefer to remove the burner from the top by removing the two screws, but I've had trouble realigning the parts that way.) I removed the ignition wire and the screw holding the bad electrode in the burner. I then installed the new electrode, attached the ignition wire, put the burners assembly back into the housing, and put the housing back into the range.

Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking

I used your instructions

Check and see if power is going to the ignitor. Do an amp draw test on the ignitor. The gas valve will not open if it won't draw the right amount of current. Sometimes it will glow but wont be pulling the right amount of juice. In my case it wasn't even glowing but it still looked okay. The mounting screws can break or strip upon removal if they are old. In my case I had to drill a hole, for a new screw, on the back one, and the front one tried to strip out. I might try a little heat next time before removing them. If no power is going to the ignitor when you turn on the oven it might be that the board has gone bad. The ignitor should draw close to 3 amps.

same as taking out old part and i misdiagnosed the problem ordered wrong part first and parts select steered me ito the correct part thank you

Installing new igniter was very easy. The problem I had was removing the screws. The range is 18 yrs old. The screws were stuck from yrs of use. Especially in the oven cover plate. I used w- d 40 it didn't work. I decided to take a 2" putty knife and push it under the screw head to release it and it worked. They came right out. The igniter screws were also difficult to get out. Once those were removed, I pulled the stove out, turned off the gas and the electrical plug, removed back plate unplugged the old igniter and connected the new one. Easy, peasy. Turned gas on etc. Tested the oven to be sure it worked. Turned oven off.Then put it all back the way it was. Done! The igniter install was simple and qiuck. The time problem was the screws.

It didn't. The grate pads (PN# PS389174) were too small for the grate (W10311216) and wouldn't work. (PN# recommended by Whirlpool parts department) The pads were smaller in diameter and shorter. Yes I could have glued them in, but because of the size the pads would be flat in no time. The only thing I could order from KitchenAid was the total grate. I ordered the pads late December, they were backordered. I got them the 1st week of February. I tried getting through to Whirlpool by calling to see if there was something I could reorder, but no luck, couldn't through. Am I unhappy? Oh some, but I handle it. Its not the first time I have been rode hard and put away wet.

Thinking we had a difficult/expensive repair, when the oven stopped working this summer - we just took advantage of the weather and grilled out. Apple season and the desire for fresh baked apple pie motivated us to action. We ordered the part - found simply on the site - it arrived promptly. A screw driver took off the oven bottom, we replaced the igniter and within 15 minutes our oven was working again. Why did we wait so long?

diagram on website was very helpful. simply unscrew two screws,remove and replace electrode and works perfectly.
Ordered one day arrived next with standard shipping installed before next day supper awesome service

I first tested the broiler and that worked so we determined that the igniter on the bottom was not working. I removed the grill and then removed the igniter ( it is attached with two screws and unplugs from the back of the oven. I then looked up the part we needed on the part select website by model number and found the exact one ( the picture was very helpful) We received the part in one day installed it and the oven is working better than ever.