ACB6260AS Amana Wall Oven - Instructions

Removed the oven door by opening slightly, then pic door up to remove. Remove 2 screws holding oven sensor in place, gently pull on sensor to remove, had to remove about 8 inches to get at plastic connector. Unplug connector, had to use an adapter cable supplied with the PartSelect kit to install new sensor, push cable back into opening, reinstall 2 screws. The oven works fine! Note that due to thermal lag the temperature overshoots to 370 degrees and undershoots to 340 degrees, this appears to be normal oven operation. Putting door back in place was easy.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the sensor out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. Next, I connected new sensor and screwed the new sensor back in place. One area for caution. Make sure that the electrical connection is pushed in past the insulation on the back side of the oven. Failure to do so will cause the plastic plug connector to melt from oven heat.

Parts arrived in three days and it was an easy swap of the hinges but the same problem still existed: the oven door wouldn't close completely, so the oven light stayed on and the convection wouldn't work either unless the door closed all the way. The replacement hinge's springs apparently aren't strong enough to close it and the springs aren't adjustable - which is a design flaw. I did correct the problem though, by using three dollars worth of 1" round magnets, which I placed inside the door: they stay put and are strong enough to pull the door tight.

First I removed the two philips screws inside the oven that hold the element in place. Then I pulled the sensor out and the two insulated wires through the hole to reveal the plastic connector. I unsnapped it from the connector and replaced it with the new element. Then, behind the oven, I removed five or six philips screws on the right side of the large panel so I could pull the wires back through the layer of fiberglass insulation to make sure only the sensor itself would be exposed to the oven's heat. I then secured the back panel again and replaced the two philips screws holding the sensor in place.

This is a Jenn-Air double oven. Turned off circuit breaker to the oven. Removed 7 screws that hold the top panel in place. Removed 3 cable/connectors from the clock module so panel can be removed from oven and placed on a table. Unscrew 4 hex head screws attaching clock module to front panel. Press on two tabs and remove circuit board from plastic frame. Replace with new board reversing dis-assembly sequence.

After examining the old board I discovered that the 470 microfarad aluminum electrolytic capacitor (in the corner) was badly deformed. I replaced this. Now I have a spare board. I believe that the failure (common in Jenn-Air ovens) starts with a transient on the power line (it did with mine). This damages the capacitor which progressively gets worse. This capacitor probably acts as a low pass filter on the power supply for the display. If any of you are into electronics, I would suggest wiring a zener diode across the capacitor to suppress transients. I wish the Jenn-Air engineers had put this in the design. It would have avoided a lot of costly repairs and saved them the bad reputation that they have as a result of this board failing over and over again.

Pulled oven out of the cabinet/wall and pulled sensor out and replaced with new one.

I ordered the door glass from Part Select, which arrived quickly and in good condition. I loosened two sets of screws under the bottom glass holder frame, removed three screws at the top of the door to give more room. Slid the glass in place, re-installed and tightened the screws.The stove door looks great and works great. Great customer service too.

turned off breaker for oven,opened door, removed racks,removed two screws,pulled out the element, dis connected wires,reconnected new element,put back screws,replaced racks,turned breaker on,perfect fit.

On the front panel I removed 3 screws on top and 4 screws under the bottom. Pulled the panel down to expose the computer board, removed 4 hex head screws and disconnected 2 plugs and 1 ribbon connecter. I reversed the process and used the awl to locate the screw holes and finshed in 23 minutes and saved $ 89.00.

A few years previously I had this same problem and a PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor.
Thus this time I knew what the failure was and obtained the sensor from Part Select. Having observed the PROFESSIONAL replace the sensor before; I followed his easy technec only to learn that when the sensor was pulled from the aft wall of the oven that the wires had deteriorated and the plastic plug melted. Therefore it was neccessary to remove the oven from the wall cabinet. Then I removed the panel from the back outside of the oven, cut back the wires and because the kit from Part Select contained additional connectors was able to splice in a replacement connector. Installed the new sensor and reinstalled the oven. LESSON LEARNED; when the PROFESSIONAL had replaced the sensor he had failed to feed the wiring and plug back past the insulated chamber, directly behind the oven, into the cool area assessable by the panel on the aft side of the oven thus the plug and wires were exposed to the heat of the oven. What would commonly be a few minutes job turned into an afternoon project.

One oven door hinge spring was broken. I ordered two hinges to complete the repair.
The repair could not have been easier. I removed the door from the oven an unscrewed the outer frame of the door from the inner door assembly. I unscrewed the old hinge assembly and replaced them with the two new hinges.
I set the door back on the oven and replaced the oven door retaining hardware.
After replacing the retaining hardware, I removed the temporary shipping pins that keep the spring assembly static. Very important: don’t remove these hinge pins until the door is on the oven an the oven retaining hardware is secured.

Very simple.

First, TURN THE POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER BOX!

Unscrew the (built-in) oven from the wall / cabinet (4 screws). Unscrew the cover in front at top where the LED display is held, and pull it back, then pull two sets of wires off of the LED display PCB, so it can be put aside. Pull the oven out of the cabinet, sit it on a chair (because the 240V power feed metal cable is still attached). Unscrew the 7 1/4th-inch hex head screws holding the metal top cover on; remove the cover, which exposes the wires and sensors, etc. Unscrew the "relay board" PCB (1 screw) and detach it from the side, leaving all wires attached to the terminals. Then, one by one, remove the wires from the old PCB and attach them to the corresponding terminal on the new, replacement PCB. Screw the new PCB back onto the side of the oven top inside, screw the top metal cover back on, attach the wires to the front panel LCD and then screw the front panel back on. Push the oven back into the hole in the cabinet and screw it into the wood on the side and bottom (6 screws total).

Finally, turn the power back on (flip the circuit breaker on). Then observe: your oven is now no longer a digital boat anchor!

The only reason it took me longer than 30 minutes to finish this was that I had to recruit someone to help me lift the oven out of its cabinet. After doing so, however, I realized that I could have done it all by myself, simply by sliding it out onto a box or chair, but I didn't realize that ahead of time. It's not really that very heavy (but I would not recommend anyone who's not strong trying to do it alone, regardless). Anyway, if I had to do it again, it would only take about 10-15 minutes to accomplish.

The part itself colst about $180. When my usually very reasonably-priced appliance repairman quoted a price of $450 to $500 to do this repair, even after I told him specifically which part was obviously bad (which he would have to order or pick it up), I decided that only an idiot would be unable to do this repair by himself.

Remove oven door by removing chrome flat plate that holds the hinge in place (one screw at each hinge) and LIFT door off oven. There is a hole in the hinge that you can stick a small nail through to hold the hinge in the "partially open" position for easier removal and replacement of the door (I didn't know this until I received the new hinges, which have a removeable pin in the hole.) After door is off, remove three screws each, on the top and bottom of door, to remove the back half of door and expose the hinges. Remove one screw from bottom of door that holds bottom of hinge in place. Lift out hinge bottom and unhook top of hinge. Reverse process to reassemble. Remove small pins by opening oven door fully. The new hinges did solve the problem. You have to order two hinges for each door. They are NOT sold as pairs.

This repair is sooo easy! First I down loaded the service manual (free pdf) from Maytag as they make this appliance. They give all of the voltages for the J1 and J2 plugs. I checked those to be sure I was getting power to the board. I did not want to lay out close to $200 and then discover that the problem was elsewhere. All voltages on the J1 and J2 plugs were good. Next I ordered the clock and when it came in it may have taken me 5 minutes to replace the old board with the new one. Including time to go out to the garage and turn the power off and on. Also beware that the ribbon cable attaches to the clock with a compression type connector. The connector does not separate with the ribbon. Simply press on the two tabs on either side and then pull the ribbon from the connector. Reverse to reassemble.

Removed the old sensor by removing two screws and pulling the wire out through the hole. Disconnected the connector and discarded the old sensor.
Selected the correct connector of the 3 provided, plugged the new sensor in and threaded the wire back into the hole paying special attention to make sure wire and connector was on the backside of the insulation. Assembled the two screws and tightened.