AAV9000AWW Admiral Washer - Instructions

I took the front pannel off just 2 scrwe was holdig the pannel,the motor was in ftont,4 bolt was holdig the moto,and it is very easy to change,

Overall, this repair should have been quite easy. The problem was removal of the old seal nut assembly. It was a bear to remove, and ultimately I had to surgically remove it from the washer in pieces. Unfortunately I broke the outer tub (plastic) in the process of getting the nut off. Once I had the silly plastic nut off, and the tub repaired the balance of the repair was absolutely easy.

My summary: This repair is really easy IF the plastic seal nut assembly comes off easily. If it doesn't budget easily, go ahead and chip it apart to get it off, being careful not to damage the threaded part of the agitator shaft. The new one will completely replace the chipped away nut.

Noise loudest during spin cycle. Wash cycle showed transmission was ok. Pump shaft loose in housing. Fix was just as described. Tip washer up, lift belt from pulley on pump. Remove rear panel access. Remove hoses. Un-bolt pump. New pump does not have metal base plate, it fits directly to base of washer. Bolt new pump to base in same orientation, attach hoses, tip washer up and slide belt back on to pulleys. Move belt by hand to check function. Reconnect washer to utilities and begin fill. Check for leaks at hoses. Replace rear panel cover.

Removed excess water,removed hoses,tiped back washer,removed belt,removed pulley and bearing. Removed 3 screws and replaced with 3 longer screws in the stator,then removed 3 shorter screws. Then loosen very slowly each of longer screws to relieve pressure from the brake spring. Once loose,pulled out brake rotor. Replaced with new parts. Works like new.

I tilted machine onto the front to acces the rear panel. i removed the three screws to expose pump, took of the drive belt located under appliance, removed the three pump screws and removed old defective pump. I installed new pump, put the drive belt back on, reinstalled back panel and screws, hooked the appliance up and started. Been running great ever since. Entire process too about 10 min.

No need to buy a brake wrench nor the expensive spring remover. Once the drum is out the washer turn it upside down and loose the screws holding the transmission about a little more than half way, to give the new snubber enough room to fit in, them tigh and assamble everything back together

I simply emptied the machine of all the water, tilted the washer on its side,removed the small gray access panel located on the back of the washer, removed both hoses and the drive belt. Then I removed the three screw bolts that hold the water pump in place. Then I replaced the old pump with the new on by just following the process in reverse. I did notice that the new pump did not come with a metal support plate(at least thats what I called it. No problem though when I found out from a local repairman that its a newer design. Total time less than 15 minutes.

Remove front panel and back service panel below water conn. lines. Put a 4" plastic box between the tub and inside of cabinet "directly opposite the spring to be removed to lower the tub to base for less opposing travel to unlatch spring from tub hook. Also took an old slotted screw driver w/ a blade about 1/4 " and grinded 1/8 from middle about an1/8" deep and used it to latch the spring when pushing it up and off the tub. Replaced all 6. Also did motor pivot spring. Tested and the it worked for one cycle, then the tub again just falls to the right as if the spring at 9 o'clock was broke and strains the belt drive but the spin cycle still works o.k. and the washer does not bang and walk away till you stop the machine. Thought the 6 tub springs would take care of both problems. Told that the snubber ring needs to be replaced. Never but another maytag again. JUst did the belt,a week later the water pump went then the springs.....

The hardest part of this is the springs. The best way to disconnect and reconnect was to tilt the tub towards the spring I was trying to work on (thus putting less tension on the spring and cutting down the distance). I took a large boot and jammed it into the oposite side wall to hold it in a tilted position before I disconnected the spring and then redid that to reconnect using a vice grip wrench. I replaced all three things, snubber, brake roto and stator and it went back together very easily. The key on the pully shaft was hard to reattach but there was a trick to that as well. The shaft has to move up slightly to slide ring on so you need to have something under the tub to help raise it. After that was back together it was 15 mins. to finish and now the washer is running like new.

use the socket with a 10 inch extention remove the existing screw. place the new agitator and screw back. remove the softner container from the broken agitator and snap it to the new one. job done.

I opened the front of the machine. The clips had rusted. One broke and the others were very difficult to work with. I pried the panel open with a large screwdriver. I took the back panel off to access the water pump. I removed the back panel on the electricals to access the timer. To replace the timer I pried off the decorative cover. To get the knob off you have to squeeze in on the timer split shaft while pulling out on the know. This was the second hardest part. (The front panel access was the most difficult). After that the timer clip is easy to loosen and it slides a littel then pops out. Electrical connection was obvious. The motor sping was the next most difficlt part. The spring fits on the rear part of the motor which is most easily accessed through the rear panel used for replacing the water pump. The water pump has three screws holding it and two hose clamps that come off easily with a pair of pliers. Before removing the water pump, I had to tip up the machine and take the belt off. This was also pretty easy. Put it back together and works great again on all cycles.

Obvious problem: belt destroyed. The plastic pulley on the motor was damaged beyond repair. Since you can't replace just the plastic pulley, you have to purchase another motor. The machine still would not spin. Checked the pump again. The bearings might be bad. Replaced pump; Success! washer works again. Total repair: belt $15.68, new pulley with motor $132.00, and new pump $80.00. Estimated cost to repair about $228.00. Time to troubleshoot. 1 hour, time to fix 1 hour; Total time in labor about 2 hours.

I took the bad water pump off installed the new one and hooked up the new drive belt. Overall it took me twenty minutes, not all that hard to do.

This is a very simple repair, I opened the top of the washer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and the washer cabinet. There are 2 clips on the front of washer, locate and push in to release top. Lift top with lid attached and remove the 2 screws holding the lid to the top of washer. Remove lid and replace hinge pin and hinge.
Replace lid, close top , all done. Total time about 15 minutes or so. Now the lid will stay up and not fall on someone.

first we looked at schematics on your web site to see what we thought was wrong and if we felt we could do ourselves. It appeared to be seals and gaskets, so we went for it and carefully took the washer apart. We ordered the parts, cleaned the parts we had such as the tub, and were all ready to put back together when the parts arrived. Again, using your pictures, we reasselbled and when we tested, it worked better than it had been in a long time. And we saved a large repair bill!