AAV8000AJW Admiral Washer - Instructions

I used a flat screw driver to push in on the releases so I could raise the top of the machine. I then used a torx tool to remove both parts of the hinge, and then used a #2 phillips screw driver, on the new screws I'd also ordered, to re-attach both of the hinge parts. Every thing went just as anticipated.

1)Start with empty washing machine.
2)Disconnect Hot, Cold, Power and Drain lines
3)Move machine to open area, open top by popping 2 front retaining clips.
4)Remove Front panel, remove small clear water level hose at lower rear of tub.
5)Remove small Rear access panel, disconnect large tub drain hose from pump and drain into small container, about 4 cups of water will come out.
5)Remove the 6 suspension Springs.
6)Place two large towels next to washer and tip machine onto its side slowly.
7)Remove drive belt from bottom, and slide out wash tub assembly thru top opening, be Careful not to damage large Plastic drive pulley on bottom of tub.
8)With tub upside-down, remove drive pully small plastic cover in center, remove E-Clip and remove pulley.
9)Slowly loosen snubber ring retaining bolts a few turns, DO NOT Remove, just loosen enough until snubber is free to move around.
10)Remove snubber ring by walking it around the retaining ring and install new snubber.
11) Clean machine cabinet and clean machine base where snubber touches with alcohol or Windex.
12) Reassemble in reverse order and Do Not Forget to reattach the small clear Water level sensing HOSE to the tub before closing the top.
13)Place Drive Belt onto the 2 small pulleys First, then slowly turn large pulley while walking belt onto it.
14)Reconnect machine to utilities and test run on small load to ensure no leaks and propper operation.
15)Enjoy Quiet free operation once again :)

back panel,belt two hoses,three screws, $100 dollars for the part!! pump is a molded part with a bearing insertion, is made in USA ! I'm guessing around 7 to 10 dollar manufacturing cost. I'm thinking that kind of mark-up is only exceded by the pharmacutical industry. I'm looking to buy a used machine for parts!!

Pulled out washer, laid on front, removed access panel and the pump was right there. Three screws with 5/16" nut driver, pliers to release hose clamps, remove hoses, remove belt from pully, remove old pump. Install new pump with three screws, two hoses and clamps, finally put belt on new pulley and other small pulley and used screw driver shaft to pull belt on to large pulley. replace access panel, put washer back in place. It literally took me more time to clean the floor under where the washer was than to change the part. Piece-o'-cake.

First I unplugged it, then removed the agitator and tub assemblies, then I tipped it back and removed the belt and pully and thrust bearings. After reading on here I learned the brake would stick and after installing the thrust bearing kit I found out I couldnt fit in the shims. That led me to believe the brake was siezed inplace so i couldn't fit in the parts. I removed the thrust bearing kit and removed the transmission assembley. I took apart the brake and found the two pieces had siezed together, after I got them apart I sanded both peices and lubed the shaft with high temp silicone like you would use on a cars brake system. I put the brake back together, BE VERY CAREFUL THE SPRING HAS ALOT OF PRESSURE! I then put the transmission back in, reinstalled the thrust bearing kit and it fit great. I put in the tub and agitator and washed clothes.

It auger would barely spin and the machine would squeal to a stop after the spin cycle. After reading some other posts on here, I decided that it is most likely the brake so I bought the brake repair kit.
Because the machine was old, I took the time to clean it while I was repairing the brake; thus the extra time, but it was well worth it.

1) go to hard ware store and buy 6 2" #10-24 screws; they will be required to remove and install the brake spring

2) you have to gut the machine (which is very easy) - working from the top
* unplug, drain water, and move it to an open space where you can easily work on the floor around it, and where you have a wall to support the top panel of the machine
* tilt washer on the side and remove the drive belt and pulley from the main shaft in the center
* lower washer and then remove the front panel and raise the top panel to rest against the wall/backstop
* remove the auger
* remove the white top from the tub
* remove any hoses connected to the plastic tub
* now you can push the tub to each side so that you can remove the springs - it is easier if you have someone push the tub down from the top while you remove the springs with pliers.
* remove the tub

3) remove the brake - working from the top with the tub turned upside down
* remove every other screw from the break and replace with the 2" screws
* remove the remaining original screws and replace with the 2" screws
* now, release the screws so that the brake spring is release with equal pressure on each screw
* remove the brake guts and replace with new

4) now would be a good time to clean out any mold and mildew

5) re-assembly is opposite of removal*
* the springs are more difficult to attach, and I would recommend starting with the spring in the back, by the drain and working towards the front of the washer

My machine is now quieter than when we first bought it! The brake was the problem!

03-2011

Repair was made by viewing on line video and owners manual. Once the machine was apart, the brake spring was the only tricky patr. Under a lot of pressure so be cautious. old bearing was removed and the new bearing installed. Machine reassembled. no issues.Thanks !!!

Unplugged the electrical plug from outlet. Disconnected the water hoses after I turned off the water supply. Using a screwdriver, popped up the washer top. Using needlenose pliers, I removed the wired from the defective valve, and removed the hose that feeds water into the tub. From the back of the washer, I removed th screw holding the valve in place. Reaching inside the washer, I removed the defective valve. I attached the electrical wires and hose to the new inlet valve prior to installing the valve. After installing the valve in place, I inserted the screw in the the valve from the back of the machine. I then reattached the hot and cold water hoses, closed the top of the washer, turned on the water supply, and plugged the machine back into the electrical outlet. I turnd the machine on, then off, and the water was no longer dripping into the machine. Problem fixed.

Removed the old pump,- disconetced the two hoses, and 3 retaining screws, sliped off the drive belt,. installed the new pump! simple!

All i did was remove the screw, took off broken agitator auger and replaced it with the new one and put the screw back in and was done in about 5 mintues. Super easy.

I put the washer on the spin cycle and could see that the tub wanted to move. While it was trying to spin I leaned the washer forward and saw that the motor was spinning and the belt was turning, but the tub wasn't. Did some reading and it was the thrust bearing. I ordered the part and replaced them (very easy, follow the directions that come with the set). After install, the tub would spin.

You do not have to remove any water lines to do this repair. Just unplug the machine from the electric outlet and tip it up on its back to make the repair. I removed the old belt and parts per the instructions. The new kit does not look like the old one. Make sure you mark the minimum and maximum marks with a sharpie on the plastic pulley before intalling it. This will help line up the cam bearing to test the spin cycle. The repair kit says to use the thickest washer but mine would not fit on so I used the thinner washer. Keep the other washer so that in the future if the plastic part wears down and you have spinning problems again you can replace it with the thicker washer. Also make sure you buy a new belt and replace the belt. I loaded it up with a full load of jeans and it works great.

Disconnect power, unsnap and raise machine top cover w/lid, remove old switch - two screws under lid, taking care to not drop loose actuator lever into machine. Remove control panel back and disconnect switch wire connector. Intall new switch, taking care to not drop loose actuator lever into machine, connect switch wires inside control panel. Replace panel cover and lower machine top cover w/lid and snap into place, reconnect power, verify operation...

I used the instructions from others and modified them with tips and details based on my own experience:
1. Unplug the power, turn off the hot/cold water valves and disconnect the hot/cold water hoses and drain hose. Tip: plug the drain hose with some paper towels to keep the stale water from dripping on your floors.
2. Move the washer to an open area like a garage, and position it near a wall (or have a helper on hand who can help you prop up the washer top later). Tip: to simplify things, you’ll want to avoid removing the top completely. Removing the top completely involves removing the inlet water hose and all wires leading to the control panel and the door switch.
3. Lay the washer on its side and remove the drive belt from the bottom of the washer.
4. Place the washer upright again and remove the lower rear panel held by eight ¼” hex screws.
5. With the rear panel off, you will see a black drain hose that connects the tub to the pump. Remove the hose at the pump with a pair of pliers. The hose is just held on with a spring clamp.
6. Remove the front panel: pry the top off at 2 front hinge points with a flat head screwdriver. With the top up, remove two 5/16” hex screws holding the front panel and remove the front panel.
7. Remove suspension springs: To easily remove the suspension springs, you will need about 12 quarters (or nickels) for each spring. I hope I can describe this part clearly. For the removal of each spring, tilt the top of the tub away from you as far as you can in order to stretch out the spring. Now insert coins between the gaps in the spring coil, alternating the coins on each side of the coil to keep the spring coil straight. Then tilt the top of the tub back toward you to release the tension on the spring and you should now be able to easily unhook the spring from the tub. The coins keep the coil stretched out for re-installation later. Repeat for the other 5 coils. Note: Others have mentioned using a metal electrical box for this, but I can’t visualize it.
8. Now raise the washer top and prop it against the wall (or have a helper hold it vertical). Follow the small clear “water level” hose that runs from the control panel to the rear of the tub and disconnect it from the tub. It is just held by a small spring clamp.
9. Remove the tub assembly. Remember the position of the tub before you take it out. Place a couple of 4”x4”s (or equivalent) on the ground to support the edges of the washer tub when you turn it upside down. With the springs removed, the drive belt off, and the water level hose and drain hose detached, you should be able to simply lift the tub assembly out. Lay the tub upside down on the 4x4s.
10. Remove the snubber ring: There is no need to remove the flywheel if you have a small or fairly shallow socket (or an angled open end wrench). My small socket worked fine. As others have mentioned, remove the snubber ring by backing out the six 5/16” hex bolts that hold the snubber ring in place. Do not remove the bolts completely. The metal retaining plate is supposed to be under spring tension, but mine did not rise when I loosened the bolts, so I had to pry it up slightly with a flat screwdriver to form enough of a gap to insert the new snubber ring. Make sure the new snubber ring is seated evenly and re-tighten the 6 bolts.
11. Reinstall: Place tub back into the cabinet, reconnect the thin water level hose, reconnect the drain hose at the pump.
12. Spring re-installation: As you hook each spring to the tub, make sure the bottom of the spring is hooked properly to the bottom of the cabinet. Then tilt the top of the tub away from you to stretch the spring out in order to remove the coins. Then tilt it back toward you to remove the tension. Repeat for the other 5 springs.
13. Re-install the front panel and the rear panel and place the washer top back in place.
14. Lay the washer on its side to reinstall the drive belt.
15. Hook up your hot/cold water, drain hose, tur

shut off supply lines, remove cover on back of washer, remove drain hose from pump,inlet and exit. remove belt underneath washer from pump. remove 3 assembly screws. remove pump. set new pump in place. rescrew pump to washer. reatach inlet and exit hoses to pump put belt back on under washer put cover back on back of washer. turn supply flines back on. should work like new