AAV1200AJW Admiral Washer - Instructions

put a total new transmission total kit on.

Opened back panel. With pliers, moved the retainer clamps. Used a flat screwdriver to pry off hose from tank. procceded to remove hose from pump. Put new hose on and replaced hose clamps. Tested with a small wash cycle, no leaks. Job done.

I was struggling for more than an hour trying to put the E clip on with the thicker washer as recommended then gave it up. I tried again with the thinner washer and still can not get the clip fully seated in place (only one end got into the groove). Frustrated, I decided to tap the other end with flat screw driver and hammer. The clip seems to be deformed but rested in the groove. Checked the brake adjustment and it was on the min mark. I did not dare to remove it for adjustment, and there is no thinner washer to adjust anyway. The washer is still working OK now after 3 loads. Other than that I am really happy with the purchase. Supper fast shipping. Very helpful instruction video. Only I am not really a handy man as my wife often encourages!

Release top of washer with putty knife (2 clips), unscrew Phillips head on hinge, replace hinge, replace screw, close washer top.

Be prepared - the repair kit lacks many needed items. Two tools are missing. This includes the spanner wrench that you need to remove and then tighten the hub shoulder that threads onto the transmission shaft. Also, the tool to remove and replace the hub springs is missing. The instructions only cover the triple lip seal replacement. These get you to the point the spin hub and outer hub are removed. The instructions do not take you through removal of the transmission from the mounting brackets. This is tricky! The brake spring applies 200lbs of force. I used three C-clamps to slowly back off the bottom plate. Two more major items to be aware of. The order you tackle removal of the hub springs (6) and the outer tub is important. I found the only way I could remove and replace the hub springs was with the outer hub removed. So, during disassembly, remove the outer hub then the hub springs. During assembly, replace the hub springs, then replace the outer hub. The final zinger - no new bolts were provided to bolt the spin hub to the hub shoulder. On my washer, the original hub shoulder took a self threading stainless bolt that was 1 1/8" long. These are not through holes. They are closed. So, the depth of the hole is critical. The new shoulder required 1" long bolts. So, when I used the original bolts, they never seated and the hub worked itself loose after 4 or 5 loads. Off to the hardware store for 1" bolts. Luckily, the old bolts at least threaded the holes for me, and I could use standard stainless bolts. Otherwise, who knows where I would have had to go for self-threading bolts. All of these issues ended up creating a 9 hour repair.

everything pretty much just unbolted real easy. the parts come with a nice set of instructions. you don't need to use the special hub removal tool. just take a small piece of wood and smack it on the ear of the hub to the left counter clockwise. it might be tough but just keep smacking it till it comes loose. then install it in reverse. simple job. you also might need some big vise scrips to get ahold of the springs real good to get them off and back on...

The repair itself was not complicated: it was just taking off the old springs and putting on the new ones. Where it became difficult was, rather than having the appliance on a platform, I was doing it from the ground. This made it a bit hard to get some leverage to stretch the new springs into place, especially in the back. I would recommend that you have a second person there to push the tank toward the spring you are replacing. This helps reduce the distance you need to stretch the spring. If you ARE in a position to get it up on a platform, that would probably be best and would make the job much easier.

I found the instructions on www.ehow.com about how to remove the shell of the washer so I could find what was going on with the washer and why it would smell like burning metal. I found it was the Drain Pump with Pulley Assembly P/N: PS2347187. It was easy to replace and saved $$$$ from having to purchase a new washer or call a repairman or women.

pURSUANT TO THE VIDEO PROVIDED BY PARTSELECT, I DISCONNECTED POWER CORD, HOT AND COLD WATER HOSES. ALSO, REMOVED DRAIN HOSE FROM DRAIN PIPE CONNECTION. LAY THE WASHER ON ITS SIDE REMOVED THE PULLEY BELT THEN FOLLOWED THE VIDEO TO REMOVE DUST COVER, C-CLIP, CAM, PULLEY, THRUST BEARING ALONG WITH ASSOCIATED WASHERS FROM THE TRANSMISSION SHAFT.INSTALLATION WAS THE REVERSE AS SHOWN IN THE INSTRUCKIONS PROVIDED IN THE KIT.

Parts Select had a video that showed the repair, I followed those directions and the repair was quite quick and easy. Washer now works as good as new. Thanks Parts Select!

we followed the video instruction that was given,on how too replace the part of the snugger. it worked really well. we are pleased with everything.

I followed the video but didn't remove the motor. Instead I lifted the tub through the top. I also didn't have longer screws with that thread, so I used slightly smaller diameter screws with nuts on the end and it worked great.

I followed the instructions in the video that was provided by Partselect for the repair. My washer is a Maytag and the back does not come off like the washing machine in the video, so I had a little difficulty installing the new springs in the back. Once the new springs were connected all was well. Also not shown in the video was the fact that once I removed the motor to the washer to get at the side springs, the belt on the bottom of the pulley had to be put back on. Repair was not hard at all.

Easy as pie but had to cut one with hack saw to remove as it would not unscrew. Rust was the problem. Hack saw was the cure. Otherwise repair would have taken 5 minutes Washer now works as it did as a new appliance.

I watched the entire video. Then I completed the repair one section at a time referring to the instructional video. It took four hours but I was taking my time and being methodical. The video did not mention replacing the drive belt at the end of the procedure. Over all I was very please. I spent $40 and repaired my old machine rather than spending several hundred dollars on a new machine. I would definitely recommend it.