A9875VRV Admiral Wall Oven - Instructions
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Oven would over heat and produce a F2 error code on the display. It would not turn off or cool down until I switched the circuit breaker off.
I switched the oven sensor easily enough, but it did not remedy the problem, so we are in the process of replacing the oven since it's about 20 yrs. old.
Parts Used:
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richard from SAINT MARYS, KS
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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"F3" error message and no oven heat
Unplugged the range, removed screws holding the old sensor. When I pulled it out, the wire connecting to the sensor was completely broken through,therefore I could not just pull the wire to get to the connector. Unscrewed one side of back panel to access the connector. Pushed the connector and wire of the new sensor through the hole ( and behind the insulation), disconnected the old sensor and connected the new one. Re screwed the new connector in place plus rescrewed the back panel. Plugged the range in and - Viola! Everything now works like a charm and I have my oven back. Easy-Peasy. Oh - I am an older female with very limited DYI experience. I just saved myself $650.00!
Parts Used:
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Pat from PAYSON, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Cooling fan runs fault code displayed
Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done
Parts Used:
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FRANK from CLARENCE CTR, NY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Original rack had melted plastic on it.
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Linda from BURBANK, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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original fixture required bulb - this fixture (all-in-one) was great
Pulled range out from cabinet-wall to get to back side, everthing was clearly exposed tlhen. Just a matter of installing new fixture, putting back on, reconnected power source - put range back in proper place.
Parts Used:
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wesley from ODENVILLE, AL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Replaced upper over light and assembly
I had to pull out the oven and balance the oven on two patio tables. Remove the back of the oven. Pull out the light assembly which was burnt. I was unable to remove the casing around the light, so I destroyed it with a pliers. Reinstalling the new light and assembly was easy. What made this job difficult, I could not remove the light assembly from the front of the oven and had to go in from the back.
Parts Used:
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Thomas from SAN DIEGO, CA
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Difficulty Level:Very Difficult
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
1 person
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Oven Racks were old
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Sandra M from DISTRICT HTS, MD
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Difficulty Level:Very Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Oven not heating to desired temp
Had to remove oven from mounting cabinet to get to the back since the wire lenght to the conector was to short to come through the mounting hole.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.
Other than that the repair was straight forward. 4 screws to dismount the Oven from cabinet, 2 screws to remove Sensor and 3 srews to open the back of the oven once out in the open. New cable adapter that came with the new sensor was needed in my case.
Parts Used:
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Raymond from Ridgecrest, CA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 5 people
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I put a drip pan in the bottom of my oven. Big Mistake. Fire in ther bake element!
A web search led me to Parts Select. Two days later my bake element was installed and my oven was again in bake mode.I'm a 75 yr. old grandmother and installed it myself so that should tell one how easy it is.
Parts Used:
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Janelle from Osceola, MO
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
1 of 2 people
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Oven Over Heating
Removed the oven from the wall. Removed back cover and unplugged sensor from the harness. Remove and replace sensor from inside the oven. Reconnect harness and reinstall back cover. Secure oven back into the wall.
Parts Used:
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Steve from New Albany, OH
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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After doing an oven self clean cycle, oven temp couldnt be set correctly, heat element was warm,not hot
After trying to set the bake temp after the self cleaning, it would not heat up. I Googled the model number,selected your link because it mentioned my symptom,and said usually it is the temp sensor in the oven that gets damaged by the high self cleaning heat. Your site had a place to enter my model number. You provided a great exploded view of the parts, showing me my sensor,then you provided the part number of the kit i needed,and filled out the order form with payment method. Less than a week later I got my part with instructions. Your video showed me the two screws I remove from the front ,and I pulled the old part out and uplugged it's connector. Replacement was easy, and oven was fixed! Thank you for a great site! You held my hand through it all!
Parts Used:
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Philip from Winter Haven, FL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Oven would not heat
Flipped off breaker and removed oven door and pulled built in stove out so the back panel could be removed. Unplugged the sensor then removed the two screws securing the old sensor inside the oven and installed new sensor. Put stove back together and installed back into counter top, re-installed oven door, flipped on the breaker and oven works like new.
Parts Used:
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Ralph from Nicholasville, KY
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
1 of 2 people
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Top oven element works, but bottom element works only intermittently
Replaced the long Oven Sensor but have not resolved the root problem. Oven still will not reach required temperature. Bottom element becomes red hot, but turns off and will not start again.
Parts Used:
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Bruce from Glencoe, MN
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Failed element , oven wouldn't heat
Easy in and out, just two screws and two wires. Only additional work was that my oven had female spades on the wires and so did the new element. Took a couple of extra minutes to change out the spades on the oven connections. Then it was slide the connectors together, re-attach the two holding screws and the oven was fully functional.
First replacement element came in bent, Parts Select shipped and replaced it immediately!
First replacement element came in bent, Parts Select shipped and replaced it immediately!
Parts Used:
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Robert from San Ramon, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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Bake element went out, wouldn't work
Before beginning I made sure electrical current wasn't running to the element. (NOTE: CHECKING FOR A VOLTAGE DROP ACROSS THE ELEMENT IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH). The safest way to do this is to unplug the oven, because otherwise you're going to get a nasty surprise as soon as you touch the exposed wire.
I removed the two screws that anchor the element to the back of the oven. Then I pulled the element out a few inches and disconnected each of the wires attached to the element. These were easy to disconnect because they were quick-disconnect spade type connectors.
Next I got rid of the old element and tried to replace it with the new one, only to notice that the new element and the wires in the rear of the oven both had the female end of the spade connector. Like a total bimbo I'd either ordered the wrong part or just failed to notice what the connectors were supposed to be.
Instead of de-soldering the spade connectors on the element or the oven wires, I made two "spade adaptors" to make the connections compatible. For this I bought a package of spade connectors from Radio Shack and cut two pieces of 16 gauge rebare wire about 1/2" long. I soldered a male spade connector to the end of each rebar piece and then insulated it thoroughly with electrical tape to keep it from grounding out. (NOTE: DO NOT USE DUCT TAPE FOR THIS, ONLY INSULATING ELECTRICAL TAPE WILL DO). The result was two miniature pieces of wire, each with a male spade connector on the end. For lack of a better name, these were my spade adaptors.
When the two spade adaptors were ready, I connected them to the female ends of the wires in the oven, then to the female spade connectors on the new element. I wrapped all the connections in electrical tape to prevent accidental grounding. (NOTE: ELECTRICAL TAPE MELTS SO I KEPT IT FAR AWAY FROM THE ELEMENT.)
Finally I shoved the wires, my spade adaptors, and the ends of the element back into the holes at the rear of the oven and screwed the element back into place using the original screws. After that I turned the oven back on.
Most of the time was spent making the run to Radio Shack and trying to explain to the guy at the front desk what a quick disconnect spade connector is.
I removed the two screws that anchor the element to the back of the oven. Then I pulled the element out a few inches and disconnected each of the wires attached to the element. These were easy to disconnect because they were quick-disconnect spade type connectors.
Next I got rid of the old element and tried to replace it with the new one, only to notice that the new element and the wires in the rear of the oven both had the female end of the spade connector. Like a total bimbo I'd either ordered the wrong part or just failed to notice what the connectors were supposed to be.
Instead of de-soldering the spade connectors on the element or the oven wires, I made two "spade adaptors" to make the connections compatible. For this I bought a package of spade connectors from Radio Shack and cut two pieces of 16 gauge rebare wire about 1/2" long. I soldered a male spade connector to the end of each rebar piece and then insulated it thoroughly with electrical tape to keep it from grounding out. (NOTE: DO NOT USE DUCT TAPE FOR THIS, ONLY INSULATING ELECTRICAL TAPE WILL DO). The result was two miniature pieces of wire, each with a male spade connector on the end. For lack of a better name, these were my spade adaptors.
When the two spade adaptors were ready, I connected them to the female ends of the wires in the oven, then to the female spade connectors on the new element. I wrapped all the connections in electrical tape to prevent accidental grounding. (NOTE: ELECTRICAL TAPE MELTS SO I KEPT IT FAR AWAY FROM THE ELEMENT.)
Finally I shoved the wires, my spade adaptors, and the ends of the element back into the holes at the rear of the oven and screwed the element back into place using the original screws. After that I turned the oven back on.
Most of the time was spent making the run to Radio Shack and trying to explain to the guy at the front desk what a quick disconnect spade connector is.
Parts Used:
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R A from Albuquerque, NM
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
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