A702 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Found noise to be belt slapping the base sheet metal, from being too loose. Belt was loose because the drive pulley was worn and one side of pulley was loose! Used allen wrench to loosen the pulley set screw, and pryed off the old pulley. Replace d with new pulley and new belts. Works and sounds like new!

After turning the water off and unplugging the machine, I took the front panel off the washing machine. I then slipped the belt off the pump sprocket. The pump was right in the front and easy to remove. All I needed was a screwdriver, for the hose clamps, and a 5/16" socket to remove the old pump. I then installed the new pump, with the existing screws, re-attached the 2 hoses, slipped the belt back on, and popped the front panel back into place. The new pump works great and the leak is gone. The whole job onlt took about 30 minutes.

Lets just say thank god for part select!!!! # 1 By far. This was a one two three job.

Removed top. Removed agitator and tubs . Replaced seals and reassembled.

Cleaned the cavities. Lubed them with olive oil. Inserted one ball on left side, while holding tension against that side to hold the ball in the lid and top indentations. Applied olive oil to right hand side indentation, and placed the new ball into lid indentation. Put lid down into closure cavity with ball, and with lid vertical, began pushing it rearward so as toslightly spring metal lid rolled edge and top metal away from one another UNTIL the new ball snapped into the hinge indentation in the machine cover. Done.

Removed the bottom belts to inspect. Belt for tub was well beyond it's service life. Belt for pump was OK. ordered the pair and replaced. When the washer was started the agitator still did not move. With power off I grabbed the agitator and pulled upward a few times then twisted it from side to side a few times. No change. Then I did the same with it with powered up ( a bit dangerous ). The agitator then ran OK.

Layed the machine on it'sback and put the 2 belts on the pulleys,Very easy ,when you know to put the machine on it's backside!

Remove the power cord and water hoses. Lay the machine on the floor. Remove two belts (washing and pumping). Unlock the screw of pulley using a hex key. Remove the broken pulley from the motor. Place in the new pulley. Lock the screw of the pulley. Install two belts. Turn the machine vertically. Plug in water hoses and power cord. Level the machine.

Installed drive and pump belt.. very very simple. only tool required was a screw drive to remove front panel of the washing machine.

Replaced both the drive belt and pump belt in less than 10 minutes. Maytag has the easiest machines to work on.

Could not repair. The gearbox on the agitator was broken and that kept the agitator from working. Do not assume it is a belt problem on a washer built in 1987.

Pull washer out from wall. Remove front panel (2 Philips head screws), swing bottom of panel out, remove panel. Tilt washer backwards, lean against wall to expose area under washer. Roll off old belts, roll on new belts. Move washer back upright, replace front panel, replace the philips screws, move washer back to original position.

Followed the procedures recommended for replacement of all the parts included in the Tub Bearing Kit and the Mounting Stem/Tub Seal kit as illustrated in a detailed, 32 minute repair video for the Maytag A606 washer which is available on YouTube. Many difficulties were experienced in the disassembly procedures due to extensive corrosion of tub bearing and tub stem parts (the washer is 47 years old).
I was not successful in using a special tub wrench that was purchased to break loose the old tub mounting stem and its threaded lock nut. The old tub mounting stem, lock nut, and the tub bearing race had to be cut off the threaded support shaft using a saws-all electric tool. Finally, corrosion on the edge of the tub caused problems with water leaks once the tub top and its rubber tub seal ring were reinstalled and the washer was put back into operation. The bottom line is that it may be questionable to attempt major repairs on washers that are 40+ years old and have any extensive corrosion in internal, mechanical parts.

Partselect.com gave me a very helpful list of parts per symptom. Said that there is an 88% chance that belts were my problem. Since the machine is 200 miles away I ordered two other parts as well. Belts fixed it! Took front cover off (not totally necessary). When the machine is tilted back belts are exposed underneath. Two belts later I was up and running. This site is really great.

I followed the instructions on this website to a T. You can take the front cover off and you will notice a small drip from the tub area where the Hub bearings (above the tranny) meets the washing tub. Once you've identified that the leak is indeed coming from that area and not a loose tube. Allow the washer to complete the job and drain the water. Then simply unplug washing machine before starting the process of the repair. It is very important to remember that you must have a spanner wrench before attempting to perform this repair. keywords=spanner+wrench came within two days with Prime Shipping. Also be sure to order the replacement parts from this site. It takes about 3 days to arrive however so be prepared to be without a washer for a few days. Other than that just follow the instructions provided and there is a very good step-by-step video on this site .