A482 Maytag Washer - Instructions

Being mechanically inclined, I found this repair pretty straight forward. First, watch the video and keep returning to it to double check yourself. Second, find someone with the spanner wrench, or purchase one. I called a appliance repair shop, and they loaned me one with a refundable deposit. My only compliant is the the out side tub bolts have a rubber washer that is not included with the repair parts kit. Inspect the rubber or find replacements. As the video explains, "TIGHTEN THE NUTS not the BOLTS", this will keep the old rubber washers from twisting. Recommend replacing your transmission shaft bearing and wash tub seal at the same time, If you can afford them.

Just tilt the washing machine, take out the old and put back the the one its so easy. You don't have take out anything.

My Maytag washing machine is 27 years old. Bought new in 1985. This is only the second repair I have made on the machine since I have owned it. Removed the front panel, then the two screws that hold the top on the body. I ordered the complete injector hose kit. I also ordered the side mount injector sleeve, because the one that came with the kit was the wrong on for my machine. (Cheaper than buying the parts separately.) Easy to install. One end was simply twist on, the other end had a hose crimp type clamp. The injector sleeve was held on with one screw. Took about 15 minutes to do the job.

smell of burnt material led me to the belts. they were not broken so while watching my wife turned the machine on-I observed that ther motor would spin but nothing else- so I pushed on it and it engaged into a spin cycle, I ordered a motor mount and two replacement belts- removing the belts and cleaning the area all looked as it should so I replaced the belts Test run all okay so I returned the motor mount. Turned out to be an easy repair-- Thank you

I followed the video provided. The video was very clear and helpful.

Couldn’t be happier with the service provided by PartSelect. By looking at the diagram of my washer at their Internet site I could see exactly which parts I needed for my 20-year old Maytag clothes washer. The parts I ordered were received within three business days and were perfect replacement parts. While I didn’t need it, an added bonus was I was sent information videos that I could watch over the Internet that clearly showed how to install the parts. While I just had a simple hose leak from age and wear, I replaced some additonal parts at the same time just to be on the safe side. Honestly, I couldn’t ask for more in being able to do the job myself.

My wife did the repair. Went on your website and watch the video on how to replace the switch and she was able to do it herself. I didn't mind at all. Saved $75.00 service charge.

followed video from your website. Nut does not come off as easy as your video shows.

I removed the front of the washer,replaced the hose and my wife was back in bussiness.

Shut water off and unplugged. Used channel locks to remove hoses. Used nut driver to remove mounting plate. Disconnected electrical connections to solenoids. Broke one. Had to replace. Used nut driver to loosen fill hose. Rusty and broke. Cut hose. Used new clamp to secure fill hose to fill solenoids. Stripped and crimped on new connector and replaced electrical connections as they were removed. Reinstalled hoses and plugged in. Tested A-OK.

Removed 6 screws to access the top left area where the water hose brings water into the tub. Photographed the area before disassembling the injector valve and nozzle. Replaced the two parts with the new parts and reassembled. The only real problem was in getting the plastic nozzle properly placed inside the rubber valve. The nozzle was difficult to insert deeply enough to properly position the rubber sleeve on the valve. After a few minutes of working with it and adding some lubricant, and after worrying I would bend or break the plastic nozzle, I got it right. So far, there's been no further leakage.

All I had to do was take the front of the washer off by unscrewing two screws at the bottom front panel using a screw driver, then loosen the top by taking two hexnut screws out from under the top (in front top corners of the washer. Next, I lifted the top of the washer up (which is on hinges, disconnected one hose clap at the top rear laft corner of the washer and pulled out the rubber injector valve which has the plastic injector nozzle inside of it. I inserted the new plastic onzzle in the new rubber valve, placed it back in the hose, tightened the hose clamp and replaced the screws in the top of the washer and put the front panel back in place and screwed in the bottom. It could not have been simpler and saved me at least $60-$80 dollars in repair costs.(I know because I paid to have this replaced once before, but never again.)

watched video, ordered parts, parts arrived fast in two days, watched video again, Repaired washer saved money

Remove front panel removed two screws holding top down, then removed plastic tube cover, removed balancer to make more room to work. Next removed set screw holding dasher, next remove spanner nut that held inner tube shield. Tthen lifted inner tube out of washer, now I removed the stem hold down and seal important clean area where seal touches the tube nowuse little water to wet new seal pt new seal ln careful not to damage simply reverse removal step and put the unit back together

The repair went fairly smooth following the directions that came with the damper pad kit from partselect.com. It only took as long as it did because the glue has to dry for the pads and it takes a few minutes to scrape off the old pads and glue. this can definitely be done by a first time do it yourselfer. Pliers are needed to remove a spring hose clamp in the back of the washer drum. Two 4x4's are needed to rest the washer drum on in order to gain access to the pads (in directions provided).