A25CA Maytag Washer - Instructions

Purchased x4 new adjustable legs. Leaned the washer back and held in place with block of wood. Loosened the two older front legs with an adjustable wrench because they had a locking nut and replaced with new legs. Repeated process on back side of washer. Once all the new legs were installed leveled the machine adjusting the legs if necessary.

First of all I had water in the machine that I had to bail out before I could tilt it back in order to work on the motor trolley, which is where the tension springs are located. I thought that the pump was not working because the tension springs that held the motor trolley back to ensure tension on the tub belt & the pump belt, were not strong enough. However, when I got the tension springs in, they were not any stronger than the springs I had. So, then I thought the only thing left to do was order a new pump belt, which I have already done. If that doesn't work, then I don't have any idea what will. I might try taking the belt I have to Auto Zone & seeing if they have one slightly smaller...beyond that, I don't know. If either the tub belt or pump belt is too tight, then one may cancel out the effectiveness of the other...very precarious. Hope this might help someone else.

Removed fill hoses, inlet valve cover,valve mounting hardware,hose to tub,unplugged electrical connector.Installed new valve in reverse order.

1. Removed the front panel from the washing machine. This entailed removing two phillips head screws on the bottom left and right of the panel. Then, I pulled the bottom of the panel out and up until the top of the panel was disengaged from the machine. 2. Noted the belt tension on the old pump so I could install the new one correctly with the same tension. 3. Removed the two hoses from the pump, and the three screws securing the pump to the washer. 4. Installed the new pump providing the belt the same tension as I observed on the old pump. 5. Installed the hoses and tightened the hose clamps. 6. Reistalled the front panel and ran the washer. Works fine!

purchased repair kit and followed video instructions. i got the job done, without purchasing the spanner wrench. i used a punch and hammer instead. also replaced the pump and belt since these are comon wear items, and my unit is 15 years old. works like new again !

I removed the agitator, retainer nut, inner bin, old seal, and outer tub. To me it was important to clean all perts thoroughly for which I used an SOS pad and scraper which probably took me a little longer than average but I thought it was worth it to prevent doing this job all over again. Then I reversed the process.I do not have the special spanner wrench so I used a hammer and punch tool to loosen and tighten the seal and retainer nut. I also bypassed the injector valve since it was leaking as well and my washer is working fine.

First check that the screens are not plugged. There are fine screens in the mixing valve and at times you will find them in either end of the inlet hoses. Not a hard job if you can get to the back of the machine, just a few small screws, swap the wires to the new part and swap the outlet hose from the valve and screw it back together. Wife will think you are a wiz kid.

Studied, diagnosed the issue, looked at symptoms described in ParrtSelect's on line resources, purchased the part. Had it in one day without the need for extra FedEx shipping charges; waspleasantly surprised to see how easy this repair was to make. I then replaced inlet hoses with new stainless steel types. This workhorse pair of of Maytag appliances, constructed in January 1985 will continue to serve for many more years. These are well-built battleships! And PartSelect will be my part source of choice to keep them going!

Exactly by the instructions that came with the new parts. Kit does not include glue; purchased an all purpose tube at local auto parts store. Removing residual glue from old pads on the hub was the most difficult part. Used a razor scraper after trying paint stripper. Washer runs very smooth now.

Repair was pretty simple, as I was able to access the valve from the rear of the washer without having to remove any large panels. All I had to do was disconnect the water supply hoses, and remove a small cover at the rear of the washer (the valve is mounted to this cover). Cleaning the electrical connectors, which were lightly corroded, took longer than anything else. Replacing the valve with the new one was just a matter of making sure the electrical connections, and the hot and cold water supply hoses were attached in the same places as the old installation. There is also a water outlet nipple on the top of the valve which had to be connected to the inlet hose, and I replaced the old clamp with a new one, which I believe is always a good idea. Two screws attach the valve to the cover, and two more screws attach the cover/valve assembly to the washer.

Unplugged washer from power source. Disconnected hose lines. Moved washer forward and tilted. Loosened 3 screws with nut driver and removed belt. Installed new belt per instructions. Adjusted belt tension and tightened 3 screws.Connected hoses. Moved washer back and plugged it in to the electrical outlet. It all went well as long as I don't get the wrong charge on my debit card. Thank you

disconnected and replaced switch. I ordered the switch one day and Fed Ex delivered it the next morning. Iam amazed at the quick service from this appliance supply store.

Pump was eazy to replace the clean up took longer than the fix.

Got ipad and follow direccions on utube.

The water pulley wheel kept seperating from the pulley shaft after numberous attempts with plumbers glue, the problem kept repeating therefor replacement was necessary. After ordering the part it was able to be replaced with the new pump and fast, washer running like new. Thank you so much.