A23CDW Maytag Washer - Instructions

I loosened three screws to relieve the belt tension and removed the belt from the pump drive pulley. After removing the water from the wash tub I removed the intake and output hoses from the pump. I next removed the mounting screws and removed the pump. I attached the new pump loosely and re-attached the belt. I moved the pump to tighten the belt tension and tightened the mounting screws. I re-attached the hoses, filled with water, checked for leaks and replaced the front panel.

This was a pretty simple repair. In this case, the part purchased here was not the actual problem, but had to be disturbed to fix another problem. After many years, corrosion and exhaustion of grease caused the bushing on the agitator shaft to seize, and the belts to slip. In this model machine, the bushing is accessed by first removing the agitator, which is held on by a single 1/4 inch set screw, and then removing the agitator seal, which is held in by a little spring clip on top of a washer. It's soft rubber, and you will probably need a small screwdriver or pocket knife to pry it out. In this case, the bushing was not too bad, so I was able to clean the hardened grease out and free it up with a little oil, using vise grips to rotate the agitator shaft, until the oil worked in enough.

Since seals don't like to be disturbed and reinstalled, and this one requires some prying to get out, I bought a new seal, even though the old one did not leak when I temporarily reinstalled it. There is a spring inside the seal, and it is packed with grease. The new seal comes with the spring and the grease already in it, so all that is needed is to slip it over the shaft (the top has some print embossed on it, making it easy to remember which is the top), press the washer down on top of it, and replace the spring clip.Slip the agitator back on its shaft and retighten the set screw, and you're back in business.

Run the machine, and check the area where the transmission enters the bottom of the tub. There's a little weep hole there, and if the seal leaks, you'll see water coming out there.

I moved wash machine away from wall and unplugged from wall outlet. Shut off water, then removed hot and cold water lines from water inlet valve,removed screw from mounting plate and removed valve from wash machine. Checked to see if replacement valve was compatible (exact fit).
Unscrewed the two screws holding valve to mounting plate,unscrewed hose clamp and removed water line at top of valve (outlet). Removed the four wires from solinoids.Replaced the four wires onto the new valve as they were on the old valve,reattached water line onto the top of valve and tightened.Reattached valve to mount plate with the two screws and mounted back onto machine. Hooked up hot and cold water lines back onto valve and snugged with pliers. Turned on water checked for leaks (no leaks), and did a load of laundry. Super simple,well worth doing yourself.

Pryed the front cover off and set it aside. I pulled the top cover off by removing the 1/2" hex screws under the front cover and hinged it back. Removed the agitator set screw with a 1/4" hex nut driver and pulled out the agitator assembly. Had to remove the nut that holds the hub assembly in by using a hammer and punch. There is not much room in the tub so be careful you don't hit the sides. It goes off by turning it clockwise. Then the splash guard comes off and then the inner tub with the top gasket and ring can be lifted out of the washer. The tapered cork covered hub was exposed and it also had to be removed with a hammer and punch clockwise after removing the torx set screw on the side of the hub. The rubber seal was now able to be removed under the hub and on top of the bearing on the outer tub. I had to clean all the accumulated scale off seal and bearing surfaces before putting new parts in (rubber seal, hub assembly, and new locking nut). Everything went back easily. Should be good for another 5-10 years...

removed face of washer and replaced belts. The only problem I had was didn't own any torx security drivers.

The job went fast an well

Water was leaking at the injector nozzle during the fill cycle. I could not visually see any damage to the existing part, but, ordered replacement parts, anyway. The new parts arrived and looked EXACTLY like the old ones. Clearly, the new parts would leak, too. So, I cut a three-inch length of 3/4-inch OD pipe and spliced the two hoses together, completely eliminating the troublesome parts. The washer works fine and does not leak. And, it fills much faster, now. I still have no clue as to the purpose of the injector nozzle nor do I know why it did NOT leak for 30 years.

The motor was easy to replace: unplug the wiring harness, slip off the belts, release the tension springs from the motor carriage with needle-nose pliers, and then unbolt the motor carriage with socket set and remove from the washer. Remove the pulley from the old motor with allen wrench and transfer the carriage to the new motor. Reverse operation for everything and you are back in business. The hardest part was the far back screw holding the carriage, a wobble extension helped.

Removed the two bottom screws holding on the front panel and removed panel. Removed two screws holding on the top lid and removed lid. Loosened clamp on injection hose at water valve and pulled hose from valve. Twisted other end of injection line counter-clockwise to loosen from tub and removed line. Installed new line in reverse order, but left off front cover to watch for leaks. Ran washer while watching through opening in front. When I confirmed no leaks, then replaced front cover.

First, I secured one lid hinge ball in its appropriate position between the lid and the washer. While keeping the first ball in place I placed the other lid hinge ball as close to its intended position as I could get it. Next, I pushed the lid and ball into its position.

After verifying that the supply wasn't the problem, I ordered the replacement inlet valve module.

1) shut off water to machine
2) removed the hose connections from the valve
3) unplugged the washer
4) removed the plate holding the module - 1 screw
5) removed the hose clamp from the valve module to the washer inlet
6) removed the two screws holding the valve module to the plate
7) removed the 2 wire connections to each of the two solenoids.
8) Reversed all of the steps above for the new valve module.
9) checked for leaks

I took out the two screws in the bottom front panel of the washer, and rotated the front panel from the bottom away from the machine until the top or the panel was released from the machine frame. I then tilted the washer back to get access to the bottom of the machine. The pump pulley had split in half, and the bottom half fell off the drive motor shaft. The only problem I had was breaking free the set screw that holds the pulley to the drive motor shaft. I used a long arm Allen wrench and an adjustable "Cresent" wrench to apply enough force to break the set screw loose. Iclamped the upper transmission belts tightly to keep the motor shaft from turning while I loosened the set screw.

These Maytag people know how to build stuff. I was impressed with this valve. Built really smart. After a gazillion years (about 16 or so) the valve started making a funny groaning noise and the cold water flow was very slow. Took about 15-20 minutes to fill the tub.

the inlet valve is located on the back of the washer where the hoses are connected. In fact the hose connectors are part of the valve.

To replace this valve, start by unplugging and turning off the water spigots, unscrew the two hoses from the valve. (you need a towel here, but that'll be obvious soon enough.)

Unscrew the single screw at the top of the valve bracket (the bottom of the bracket is held in place without screws.) Remove the screw holding on the sheet metal and pull the bracket out as far as you can without stretching things. Write down what colors of wire are connected, then pull off the electrical connectors.

The valve outlet is a skinny (compared to the inlet hoses) rubber hose that has a clamp to hold it in place. The clamp needs to be loosened with a 3/16" nutdriver a plier would probably work, but may be hard to get in there. Now slide the clamp further up on the hose, dislodge the rubber hose off of the old valve. Now it's free.

Reverse the steps. Believe it or not, that is all. It works great and this washer probably has another 10 year left in it.

Clamp was already in multiple pieces so easy to get off.

Got clamp from partselect.com in 1 day which was great.

Removed two PH screws from front cover then pulled bottom of front cover outward and down to remove.

Caution for those doing this: take a piece of 220 or 240 grit paper and sand all the edges of the clamp. Trying to put it on without doing so will result in countless paper cuts in hands.

Before putting new clamp on be sure to use either some soap or silicon lube on the rubber V seal between upper and lover tub.

Also need to put some 1/4" to 3/8" spacers at three equally spaced places beneath the upper tub and the lower tub. If this isn't done the upper tub will drop down too far inside the lower tub and the inner lower tub, when it starts to spin, will rub on the underside of the upper tub = cause the main drive belt to smoke and tub to "freeze up"

Spacers I used were simply 3 pieces of multi strand sheathed electrical wire 3/8" so that I could bend them down at an angle and put them out once clamp was in place. Wire pieces need to be about 4-5" long.

Assemble one bolt in clamp and thread around tub in CCW direction.

Position one bolt of the clamp in right rear corner. this is important so that when tub goes out of balance, there's clearance for the clamp bolts and they don't contact the cabinet.

Make sure before threading clamp arount tub that the screw that will end up in the front left corner has a hex head on it so that you can apply some clamping "muscle" with a socket wrench.

I had trouble getting the front left screw inserted in the clamp (its only 2" long) so I used a 3" bolt to make the preliminary connection to pull the clamp semi tight. I planned ahead and got a light wire coat hanger to use as a "tie-tie" in the event that I had to remove the 3" slotted screw to revert back to the 2" hex head screw. Luckily when I removed the 3" screw I was able to quickly pop the 2" hex head back in and tighten completely.

Before putting front cover on, do one load with front cover off to make sure that upper and lower/inner tub don't rub each other.

If ok, turn power back off and put front cover back on.

Note: Would advised ordering the rubber V-seal if you are ordreing the clamp. If you buy the seal there are four bolts in the lid that let you lift the lid to work on the tub, clamp and seal MUCH more easily. Sticky part is getting water fill tube in top left rear disconnected so that new rubber v-seal can slide over tub.

Note also that in order to get to front left lid bolt that single bolt holding diaphram onto front left upright must be removed so as the let diaphram assembly drop away to access front left lid bolt. The two bolts in the rear can be accessed from the top very easily. Also need to disconnect the bleach fill tube in order to lift the lid (right side lifts up to vertical position)

Replaced the 2 belts according to instructions received with the belts. Very easy repair