A17CA Maytag Washer - Instructions

I watched the repair video twice even though the repair was very easy. Just like the video, I unplugged my machine, unscrewed the front cover screws and removed the front cover, moved it forward and leaned it back to expose the bottom and replaced the belts. wow! Simple and back to a quiet washer. It took me longer to clean the floor and inside of the washer then it did to replace the belts! Thank you so much

I changed the belt but the problem re-occurred so its back to the drawing board

Removed 2 screws at bottom of front panel. Tilt out front panel to remove. Tilt machine on side to access bottom screws that hold drain pump in place. Spray screws with WD40 and remove 3 screws. Loosen hose clamps on pump and remove pump, install new one. Re-attach hoses and screws. Before tightening pump hold down screws adjust belt tension per drawing picture (included with pump). Test for leaks, put front panel back on.

The video was very usefull> however could not find the (specialty tool) as seen on You tube the nut was so corroded that it would not of helped anyway. Used punch and hammer.Make sure you back out the locking set screw all the way out other wise it may strip threads. Overall the repair went well. But only lasted 2 weeks and started to leak again. May be due to worn bearing? Not sure Getting new washer instead of repairing this one. I would also order the bearing too if the washer has been leaking for any legth of time,Good luck.

First off I would like to say how suprised I was that parts are still available for a 23 year old machine and that partselect not only had the parts but a video for the repair. The video really shortened up the time it took to get to the motor and pump as I thought going in from the back would be how to access them. I did have to tighten the pump belt as per included instructions. The drive belt went on easy. I buttoned it up and tried it out and the machine worked great but a few loads later the burning rubber smell came back and the machine wouldnt agitate. I could go through the cycles a few times and it would then start agitating but that is only a temporary fix so I took the front cover off and looked the drive system. I noticed two drive motor tension springs side buy side and what looked to me like holes for a third tension spring. I added a third spring and so far so good but I will keep an eye on the machine for a while to see if the third spring does the trick.

very simple to repair, three screws and disconnecting water supply pulling four wires then reverse steps and done, time spent less than 15 minutes.

My husband figured out what the problem was and I looked for the part. It was easy to find on your web-site, and the picture was spot on! I ordered it and had the part in 2 days. The repair took 15 minutes or less, and my washer is as good as new. Thank you PartSelect for being there when we needed. I will recommend this to everyone.

Repair proceeded as described by others, and is indeed very easy to do. My replacement of these parts was a bit of a gamble, since it has been very hard to identify exactly where the small leak I had was coming from. Happily, the new parts do not seem to leak as before, despite being nearly identical in appearance to the 25-year old parts being replaced. Is it possible that the old black rubber injector had lost some of its flexibility, or no longer aligned itself properly inside the clear plastic housing assembly when water was flowing? Another trouble spot is the point where the injector hose joins the water inlet valve. If you remove this hose while doing your repair, be sure to check for leaks there. I made sure the hose clamp fit exactly back in to the indentations it had made in this hose, and even wrapped a few turns of Teflon tape around the water inlet valve fitting before putting the injector hose back on. Hope this helps..

Removed 2 screws on front of washing machine to remove front panel. Tilted washer back and slipped off old belts and slipped the new ones on..they are on the bottom of washer...had to push on motor mount a little..but very easy..put the front cover back on...working fine so far

I found this website and it was the only reason I was able to fix the washer leak. I was about to go out and buy a new washer and dryer combo. Found the part after googling it and this website also had video on how to replace the washer seal kit. The drawings allowed me to see what the problem was and the video helped me know how to change the seal kit. I never would have known about the left hand threads on the tub nuts. I used a short punch to free nut instead of the spanner wrench which I didn't have. Otherwise repair went exactly as shown. I will always use this site to fix my appliances from now on.

Removed front panel, raised top, started washer and observed location of leakage in vicinity of injector valve/nozzle. Disconnected hoses (2 places} to remove existing injector valve and nozzle. Had to grind thru one of the hose clamp "rings" which had no screw to tighten/loosen it to remove it. Installed new injector valve and nozzle and reattached hoses using an existing hose clamp and one new hose clamp to replace original "ring" clamp. Refastened washer top using socket set and refastened front panel.

1)Shut off power supply to dryer. 2)Removed lint filter. 3)Removed two screws that secure filter duct to dryer top. 4)Lifted front of top to gain access to door switch. 5)Removed two switch mounting screws. 6)Removed the two power leads. 7)Reconnected power leads to new switch using "Normally Closed" terminal on switch. 8)Reversed the previous procedures to complete repair.

Watched the installation video on the website and used exactly the same technique. Belts came off easily as did the pump assembly. Installed the new pump and belts and adjusted the pump belt tension to 1/4 " when squeezed together. Replaced the front panel and moved washer back into position. The pump noise was gone and there were no leaks. Easy job.

Unplug the machine and disconnect the two water hoses. Use a short phillip screwdriver to remove two screws from the bottom front of the machine. Lift of the front panel to expose the motor. Lay the machine on its back on a 4 x 4 so the drain hose won't be damaged. If the screws appear rusted spary Kroil on them and let it soak for 45 - 60 mins. Remove the two belts. Remove the pulley via the set screw. Remove the four nuts to free the motor and slide plate. Undo all the wires. Remove the four nuts holding the slide plate. Install the new motor.

searched on line for the part.you guys had a very informative video looked how simple it was i purchased the part i needed and the rest was history thanks you guys are great saved me around 140.00 bucks. for about 15 minutes worth of work