A110 - Instructions

I started by unplugging the appliance and then shut off the hot and cold water faucets then I disconnected and drained the hoses. Next, I removed the two screws that held the valve assembly in place. I then pulled the assembly out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wire plugs. The last step was to loosen the hose clamp on the outlet hose and pull off the outlet hose. I reversed the steps to install the new assembly and the total repair took about 10 minutes.

I removed the 2 phillips screws on the bottom of the front panel. Then checked around to find the belts were actually below the floor panel.
I pulled the washing machine away from the wall and tilted it bacwards and found the pump belt was off the pully and the drive belt was badly damaged. I replaced the 2 belts which took no tools and about 3 minutes to accomplish then resecured the front panel, pushed back in place and leveled. Complete repair from diagnosis to back in operation took less than 15 minutes.

My washer is 5 years old and water began to leak on the floor. I took off the front panel and filled the tub. Water did not leak immediately, but after the tub filled with about 3-4 inches of water, the water began to leak from a rubber washer between the fixed tub and the drive shaft. I looked online for exploded diagrams of Maytag washers, when I came across your site. By looking at your diagrams, I determined what parts I needed and ordered them. The parts arrived in 2 days, and I installed them. There were no leaks and it cost me under $70 (a repairman would have cost at least $250). The only thing I would recommend to those in similar situations, is to purchase a spanner wrench (your site does not sell, but others do). The stem seal and hub assembly is reverse threaded (clockwise to loosen) and is difficult to remove due to tight quarters in the tub.

The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and found this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.

1: Disconnected all water and electrical connections.
2: Removed front panel.
3: Disconnected all wires leading from the control panel and removed the top of the washer.
4: Removed the springs that holds the drum down on the damper pads.
5: Flipped washer upside-down so the drum would hang from the bottom of the wash. This made it easy to clean the area since it was full of dirt and ground metal dust.
6: Glued new pads (per the instructions) to the cone that protrudes up from the bottom of the washer and allowed to dry.
7: Lubricated the pads with the provided grease and added additional silicon grease to insure smooth operation.
8: Replaced drive belt.
9: Flipped the washer back up-right and installed the drum springs.
10: Reconnected all wires and attached the top of the washer.
11: Reconnected all electrical and water lines and tested operation.
12: Replaced the front panel.

Washer now runs as quite and smooth as it did when it was new.

In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.

To see if the lid switch was the problem I first jumped it out and tried to start the washer. That was the problem. I removed the main controll so I could get to the lid switch. I made the mistake of removing the screws all the way out and the metal clip fell into the body of the washer, no problem since I was changing the drive beld anyway. I realized that you do not remove the screws all the way out, you just have to loosen them and then slide out the lid switch & then replace it.

First found out where the belts were by tipping the machine backwards and saw that the belts were intact but extremely loose. Ordered two belts (Drive and Pump) . Re-tipped the machine and in less than three minutes, had installed the new belts. I re-hooked the hoses to the back and the machine operated as if new.

I replace the belts - 5 min
I tried to replace the glides...I couldn't figure out how to do that..I took out the motor and and the glide mechanism...but I could not get glide braket separate from the motor mount..so i did not do this
I replace the springs and added 1 extra sping...3 instead of 2..it worked

I determined that the spin bearing was bad and decided to replace the brake too. Placed the machine on its side and then removed the rubber cap, v-belt, screw, drive lug and pulley. Then used a chain-vise grip to turn the brake off with the aid of a 3 foot long pipe extender for leverage. Blocked up the tub to align the transmission and installed the new spin bearing, brake, pulley and drive lug. Adjusted the drive lug position to contact the ccw motion of the pulley at the point when I could just feel the brake pressure. Installed the screw and rubber cap. Replaced the drive belts. Tested and all works. Halleluah!

My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!

I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on.
Ta-Dah!

I thought I had only a water valve problem - both the noise and leak seemed to come from the water valve assembly - but I had two. After replaced the water valve (a job which was easy to do as the assembly was easily accessed from the rear of the machine) the moaning stopped but I was surprised to discover that I had a stream of water pouring from under the machine.

I pulled the front panel (two phillips head screws needed to be removed) and raised opened the top assembly after removing two hex screws. (The diagram on PartSelect.com was helpful in understanding what I had to deal with).

I observed the fill action, and found that the water was leaking from the slots in the fill nozzle sleeve, in the water injector hose line. (The new inlet water valves had increased the pressure at the fill nozzle and increased the leak from that point which I had not suspected to be the source of the leaking water).

The basic problem was that the rubber valve sleeve had shrunk in length and was no longer flexible, allowing water to come out of the sleeve slots. I ordered an injector nozzle and valve and installed them in the original sleeve bracket in just a few minutes (two clamps had to be loosened, and the hose sections pulled back to insert the valve and nozzle assembly). (I had also ordered a replacement bracket just in case the old one might break, but it was not the correct part and the old one was fine.)

I checked for leaks and closed up the machine. Problems solved! It is now both quiet and leak-free.

(Moral, open the machine and check the nozzle for leaks - even if you suspect only the water valve assembly. The nozzle valve is located above the water valve and its leaks drop onto the water valve, making it look like the water valve assembly is the source of the leak.)

Firstly, remove ac power from washer!
After removing the front panel of the washer (two philips screws), I loosened and removed the plastic motor cover and removed three hex head screws holding the motor. Have someone help you tilt the washer so you can remove the belts by "rolling" them off of the pullies (pump pully and motor pully). What I did was use a chemical degreaser to clean the motor base metal channel where the nylon sliders reside. After doing that and letting it dry, I removed the two old
springs. I ended up reinstalling the old springs because they were not stretched and I installed a new spring (total three) on the right side of the mount. A stiff metal rod with a hook on the end will help you install the springs. Squirt some of the included silicone lubricant on both sides of the motor mount channel and exercise the lube. Reinstall the motor and plastic cover over top of motor. Clean hands and clean belts while you have them out, reinstall belts and front cover and you're finished. My wife said it never ran better!

My washer stopped spinning, even though I could hear the motor running. I did some research and found out there was two belts, opened mine up and it was broken. I replaced the belt in five minutes, start to finish. Now it's running like new.

This repair project was too easy!...and cheap. Sears quoted the price of the igniter at $280 plus the service call and the item cost $41 on PartSelect. The part was received the next day after the order was placed...WOW! So easy, turn off the power to the oven, open the oven door, remove the oven racks and lift the bottom pan of the oven up from the back and set it aside. There you see the flat type igniter in plain view at the back of the oven. Remove two screws with nuts using a nut driver (I had trouble because the screws were corroded and I had to use some, um, force to get them out and swore a little too). Once the screws were out, pull the igniter elecrtic wires and connector from the entrance hole in the back after moving a little insulation out of the way. Release the connector plug and unplug the old igniter and simply plug in the new one. Find new screws and reinstall in reverse order. Be sure to push the connector and wiring back into the hole and cover with the insulation. Very easy job that anyone could do.