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A107S Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for A107S parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A107S
76-90 of 367
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Tub was filling up with water slowly when washing machine was off

  • Customer: abraham from argyle TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Turn the water supply off. Disconnected the hot and cold hoses from wahing machine. Unplugged the machine from power supply. Removed two screws holding the water inlet valve to the machine frame.
Took the old valve out and marked the wire connectors. Removed the wire connectors and the remaining hose from the old valve. Took the new valve and connected the wires paying attention to the markings made earlier. Uses the little adapter hose which came with the new valve to make the new hose connection on the outlet side of the valve. Put everything back and it worked fine.
These partselect guys are very prompt in sending the things you order. I have used them many times and am very happy to deal with these guys.

The plunger was worn down. Washer would shut off during the washing cycle.

  • Customer: John from Coal Valley IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
I started by unplugging the washing machine from the wall outlet. I then proceded to remove four screws from the top of the control panel. After removing the screws I put two flat head screwdrivers on each side of the lid and applied force to pry the lid from the ball joints holding it in place. This was the part that was the most difficult in my opinion. After the lid was off, I removed the bolt that was holding the fuse switch in place and removed that from the slots. Next I unscrewed the two screws on opposite sides of the switch head where it makes the contact with the lid. This allows you to remove the switch assembly out of the unit. Once the assembly was out, I assembled pieced the new parts together by looking at the old parts. Then, I placed the new assembly back in the unit. Be careful when you put in the new assembly that you test the switch and make sure you hear the "Click" from the switch. After that I reversed all the steps and put the unit back together.

Washer was leaking a lot of water

  • Customer: Charles from Tucson AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
This repair started because I wanted to clean the lint build up out the exhaust vent. But when I moved the washer out, the tile floor was buckled from water damage. So I removed the old tiles and coated the cement with waterproof paint and sealed the seams of the baseboards. Then before reinstalling the washer I had to locate the water leak. I looked at the water inlets and the faucets and saw (and felt) nothing wet. Then I started the wash cycle and looked for the drips. I found them on the left side coming from under the unit. I removed the water inlet plumbing (two screws hold it in place) from the back of the washer but there was no leak. Finally I removed the front panel and could see water running down the side and coming from near the top of the machine. This was right behind the water inlet unit and I thought that one of the hoses was leaking. To get to that area I then removed the top casing and found the injector port was leaking, not the hoses. To remove the front panel I had to take out two screws at the bottom of the panel. To remove the top I had to remove 4 screws...the two rear screws were easily accessible but the two front screws were inside the unit and the one on the left had restricted access because of the electrical unit installed there. After the replacement parts arrived it was relatively easy to remove the front and top again to gain access to the injector port. I removed the old nozzle and valve and installed the new parts. Then I started a wash cycle to check that the leak was fixed. The water did not leak so the repair was successful.

WASHER LEAKED WATER FROM BOTTOM SEAL

  • Customer: JACLYN from RICE LAKE WI
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED WASHER TUBS INNER AND OUTER
NUT (PART # 10 ) ON INNER WAS HARD TO REMOVE AND IS A REVERSE THREAD USED HAMMER TO LOOSEN ONCE OFF REMOVED 1ST TUB - THEN REMOVED SET SCREW #17 AND THEN UNSCREWED MOUNTING S ITEM #29 THIS AGAIN REQUIRED SOME HAMMER TAPPING TO LOOSEN - ONCE OFF USED FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER TO PRY & REMOVE THE RUBBER PIECE ON BOTTOM OF OUTER OR 2ND TUB -BUT KEEP GOING AS THE LEAK WILL PROBABLY BE FROM PART #20 TUB BEARING ( THIS WILL SAVE YOU THE TIME TO TEST AND FIND OUT IT STILL LEAKS AND HAVE TO TAKE APART AGAIN AFTER ONLY REPLACING #29 REMOVED 3 BOLTS HOLDING TUB - DISCONNECTED HOSES AND REMOVED 2ND TUB - USED RUBBER HAMMER TO KNOCK OUT AND INSTALL #20 TUB BEARING - REASEMBLED AND WOW NO LEAKS TO COST ABOUT $120 - TIME WORKED ON 3 HRS - ONLY BECAUSE TOOK APART 2 TIMES - DOWN TIME ON WASHER 10 DAYS AS WE DIDN'T ORDER ALL PARTS TO START WITH NO BEER NEEDED BUT DID ENJOY A NICE RED WINE - GOOD LUCK

A chirping sound or squeak during the wash cycle.

  • Customer: Jim from WI WI
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
I used a 1/4 inch socket to remove the agitator.Used a small screw driver to remove clip. Then I lifted the washer off the shaft with a magnet. Pried out the old seal with a screwdriver. This exposes the top of the tub bearing. I applied some 80-90 differential grease to the top of the bearing, pressed in new seal, installed other parts and noise gone. It sounds like a new washer. I'm glad I found you guys.

Leak from tub and burning smell when initiating spin.

  • Customer: Scott from Hinkle KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
There is one good description already posted. I would add:1)If the the nut holding the inner tub doesn't loosen easily just split it with a chisel and don't waste time. 2)Don't order extra washers to remount the outer tub, they come with the bearing! 3)While disassembled I ran the spindle on spin to make sure the brake assemlby wasn't the problem. It ran quietly and smoothly. 4)The inner bearing sleeve was stuck on the spindle and didn't want to free up. I used a rotary tool to cut a groove in the old bearing sleeve then chiseled on the groove edge and it split nicely. It was very brittle. The washer seems to work well now. Next time I see a leak I am going to repair it right away!

The water valve was making a loud noise

  • Customer: Darrell from Houston TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
The water valve on the cold side was making noise when cold water ran. I removed the screens but did not see a problem. I ordered a new valve and installed. The noise is gone and the water flow is back to normal.

At the time we did not realize the water flow had slowed.

The fill cycles would start then stop suddenly

  • Customer: Peter from Aurora IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
This was an easy repair.
1st I removed both water hoses
2nd I removed 1 hex head screw that released a backing plate & removed the plate holding the water inlet valve.
3rd I pulled the 4 electrical connections & loosened a clamp to remove a small water hose.
4th I removed 2 hex head screws that held the water valve to the backing plate.
-----------that was a whole 5 - 10 minutes!------------
Next I reversed the process
4th I attached the inlet valve with the 2 hex head screws
5th re-attached the 4 electrical connections(had slip on spades) pushed on the hose & tighterned the clamp.
6th replaced the backing plate with the inlet valve attached & tightened the single hex head screw.
7th re-attached the hot & cold lines................................DONE
15 minutes tops

Washer leaked at injector valve site

  • Customer: Matthew from Coloorado Springs CO
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 4 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
Removed two screws from bottom of front cover. Raised front cover to disingage clips and remove. Removed two screws to release top cover. Propped top cover up with mop to allow access to injector site. Removed two clamps to free injector sleeve, nozzle and valve from inlet hose. Installed new clamps, sleeve, nozzle and bracket. Lowered top cover and tested for leaks. None found. Reinstalled top cover. Reinstalled front cover. Washer back in service.

Standing water in washer tub

  • Customer: James from Baton Rouge LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Thinking the water pump was not doing its job in removing all of the water after the rinse cycle, I replaced the water pump.

1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove front cover (2 screws).
3. Pull belt and hoses off pump body (watch for water in drain hose!).
4. Remove 3 screws holding pump to bottom pan. 5. Reverse process with new pump.

This job is straighforward, and it helps to have 2 wood blocks to prop up the front of the washer.

Unfortunately, this didn't fix my problem. Actual cause of the water in the tub was a leaking inlet valve (solenoid assy).

Leaking Water Pump

  • Customer: Edwin from Eagar, AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled wahser away from wall, unpluged, removed screws from rear access panel, removed hoses from water pump, used towell to absorb excess water still in pump and hoses, removed drive belt, removed screws securing pump, removed old pump replaced it with new pump, cussed a little when replacing hoses, repeated steps in reverse order, checked for leaks.

Washing Machine Tub would not drain

  • Customer: CHRISTOPHER from BOCA RATON FL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that held the front panel in place. Then I determined that the belt for the pump had fallen off because the drive belt was worn (and inverted) and a piece was hanging off and causing the pump belt to slip off the motor. I replaced the belt for the pump (Temporarily) to allow the tub to drain.

I replaced both belts with new belts and returned the front panel. The process took 15 minutes due to the necessity of explaining the proper use of tools to a neighbor child and allowing him to assist (required for the completion of one of his Cub Scout requirements).

No cold water -- only hot

  • Customer: Darla from Loves Park IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
My washing machine would only run hot water. Told my husband and we were ready to call the repair man when I suggested we try to order a part. So I Googled "washing machine repair". Clicked on the first sight I saw and 'searched 'no cold water' amd immediately saw explanation of our exact problem. The solution explained that MOST of the time the problem was the water inlet valve. So I ordered the part. My husband put the part on the machine and the process would have taken less than 10 minutes however the clamp was so rusted to broke and that required a trip to the hardware store. But I suppose clamp-life does not exceed 20 years. So mission accomplished and a great big thanks to all those who explained what they did to solve the problem!

WHEN FILLING TUB TO SOAK, WATER LEAKED FROM LEFT REAR CORNER

  • Customer: EL from O'Fallon IL
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Removed front cover by removal of 2 phillips screws at bottom of front panel. Removed two cap screws from LF and RF corners attaching the top to the side panels. Raised and blocked up with piece of wood the hinged top of machine. Removed hose clamps with nut driver and cotter pin remover to expand the Maytag clamps for reuse and to break the stick of the hoses to the old sleeve. Removed the clamp at the water fill valve on the water hose run up to the sleeve. Removed the water injector from the washer fill hose and removed the plastic injector for reuse in the injector hose. Inserted it into the fill hose as the old removed sample revealed. Installed the new improved plastic sleeve with one of two original screws, no longer using two but one screw for mounting. Installed original clamps on new hoses and reinstalled hoses on new sleeve. Pressed run dial center to start fill to ensure water leak was now cured. Reinstalled LF and RF cap screws to side panels. Reinstalled front panel 2 phillips retaining screws. Tested cycles and no leaks, on this 1966 machine bought new in May of 1966, along with its companion Maytag dryer. Both remain in good use. A comparable Maytag washer is 799.00 at Lowes... Thank you, Fred Maytag, for the best washer with the easiest design to repair, IF it ever needs parts... and Thanks, PartSelect.com for having these 44 year old washing machine parts. Interesting to note that this sleeve not only had an added water fence around its open vent slots to prevent water overflow, but that it now tilted rearward on the OEM mount to aid in that desire. It is Always Good to see American companies that are continually upgrading their parts to work better and to fit in older machines, like Maytag has always done, in their search for excellence.

The washing machine would fill up with water when it was not in use.

  • Customer: MARK from ENGLEWOOD OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Wrench set
  • 5 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
I turned the water off, detached the hoses and unscrewed the water inlet valve. I unhocked the wires and reattached the wires in the correct sequence on the water inlet valve. Done in 15 minutes.
All Instructions for the A107S
76-90 of 367