A105 - Instructions

Found a very stretched, loose pump belt. Was able to pull it off pump pulley and motor pulley easily. Pushed motor assembly toward transmission pulley and removed wider drive belt. Wiped all pulleys clean. There's a double on the motor- one for drive belt, one for pump belt. Removed two hoses from pump using nutdriver. Removed pump. New pump installed. Installed two hoses on new pump. Installed drive new drive belt. Installed pump belt last. Slid pump to near farthest spot in slots. Tested for correct tension by pinching pump belt. Should be able to pinch center so two pump belt sides come within 1/4" of each other just as the spring tensioned motor mount starts to move. Pused washer back into place after external hoses connected. All new hose washers and filters on both hot and cold. Ran, checked for leaks - none! Absolutely perfect. Put front panel back on. No weird noises and drum empties perfectly every time. My wife is so pleased she's doing more loads.

Used toothpick for a year to push switch acctuator far enough to engage switch. Broke my foot and found time to order part thru PartSelect. Went from cast to boot and received part 2 days after ordered. Had difficulty with foot and getting to switch. Went back into PartSelect and figured out how to dis-assemmble panels thru the diagrams. Time on my job doesn't, just that their service and expertise that is available to everyone is there to use. Broken bones or not, I will always get my parts and advice from PartSelect. Thanks to PartSelect.

1. Unplug power to the washer.
2. Remove 2 screws from bottom front panel on either side. Panel then rotates out and unhooks at the top. Remove front panel
3. Remove bolts from underneath the top front on both sides using a socket.
4. Rotate the top upward to provide space to see and work.
5. From the back of the washer, remove 4 bolts using a socket around the drain tube at the upper left.
6. From the front, the siphon valve can be removed from the inside upper right.
7. From the front, unscrew the clamp holding the drain hose on the water pump housing at the bottom right front and remove the hose. Be prepared for water to drain from the hose. Remove hose and siphon valve together and discard.
8. Install new hose on new siphon valve and screw new clamp tight. Make sure the rubber ring is inserted properly on the new valve (See old valve for reference)
9. Holding the siphon valve in place, use a socket and re-attach the 4 bolts around the drain tube at the back of the washer.
10. From the front, insert the opposite end of the new hose to the water pump at the lower right front and screw the circle clamp tight. Note: Re-use existing clamp.
11. Rotate the top back down into normal position.
12. Plug the power back in and run a short cycle and watch for leaks.
13. If no leaks, re-attach bolts for the top with a socket.
14. Re-attach front panel with 2 screws. Done.

I was told that it might be a clog in the tube.. we check the tubes that wasn't it Then I Google it and was told it might be the drain pump. I was just glad that Part Select had what I need because my machine is over 20 years old. We change the pump and now I hope I get at least another 20 years out of my machine. I will always use part select to get my parts. Thanks

Removed front of machine; then tilted back the top of machine, after removing the two screws in top front. Removed the old parts, trimmed the injector hose which was slightly longer than necessary, put new injector nozzle in ruber injector valve and inserted into the new sleeve, clamping the new hose to sleeve as well as clamping the remaining functioning hose to sleeve. The new sleeve mounting bracket was slightly different from the old one, but I was able to make it work with a small block of wood and two screws. The washing macine no longer leaks, the parts arrived timely, and the price was right. Thanks.

I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.

Unplugged power cord then disconnected the water supply and drain hose. Removed 2 screws and took the front panel off. Laid washer on it's side and posistioned the transmission with the cover facing upward. Removed the hex head screws then used a razor knife and a putty knife to remove the silicone sealant. Found that the agitator shaft spring had broken and fallen into the housing jamming the gears that's used in agitation. Removed the oil and all broken pieces of the spring. Installed new shaft spring, replaced the oil then applied sealant to the cover and screwed the cover back down. Let the washer stay in the same posistion for about 18 hours to let sealant dry completely. Then I sat the washer back on it's feet and removed 2 screws that holds the top lid in place. This allowed me access to the tub cover where the injector t is located. Installed the injector t along with the injector tube seal. Connected the hose and hose clamp. Then I put the lid back down and secured with the screws. Connected the water supply and drain hose then the power and selected a wash time and observed the operation. Everything worked ok so I put the front cover back on. Note: I had used the injector t from this washer to fix another washer that an appliance dealer had given me to use for parts to repair the one just described above. That was the only thing that was wrong with it. It was used for about a year and a half and it developed a problem in the spin cycle. Appears to be a brake problem. I intend to repair it as well.

Determined the tub seal was bad and ordered the seal and tub bearing. Removed the front cover with two phillips screws and unbolted the top to lift back. Removed the agitator with 1/4" setscrew on side and lifted out. Using punch and hammer, broke the inner tub nut loose (clockwise is off). Lifted out the inner tub, unscrewed springs from the bottom and removed; then removed the bearing with a little prying (had to raise the tub slightly and tap the center splined shaft to push out) and lifted out the outer tub. Outer tub had few rust spots about to penetrate, so sanded off rust, primed with etching auto primer and sprayed enamel topcoat to prevent further corrosion. Reassembled in the same order.

When done, there was still a loud noise on the spin cycle, so obtained a spin bearing and brake assembly (need to replace both most always). Tilted the machine on its back and removed the pulley, then put a special wrench on the brake assembly and broke loose (counterclockwise) with a 3 foot extension after placing a 2x4 section in the tub between wall and one of the bases for the spring arms (to keep the tub from turning). When the brake came off it was full of water and corroded from the leaking tub bearing previously replaced. Reassembled in reverse order and replaced two belts on the bottom for good measure. Works perfectly now and is very quiet.

In my estimation, the repair should have included both the tub bearing/seal and the spin bearing/brake assy from the outset. Could have used a chain visegrip wrench instead of special tool to remove the brake assy - whatever is available. The tool costs a lot and will never be used again.

Put blocks under the washer where the leveling leg was needed and screwed the part into the washer. Then it was just a matter of moving the washer into place and leveling. Pretty easy.

Removed the bottom cover and replaced the burned contact spade. Cleaned the wires and adjust the contact holder.

removed old pully, put new one on with hex driver, removed belts, put new belts on and finished.

My washer filled up and wouldn't drain at all.

I tried checking the fuses, then read that the belt could be broken or worn. I checked under the hood and the belt was broken right in two. I drained the washer manually then ordered the new belt.

I was able to replace the belt in no time with no effort at all.

I want to mention only the difficult parts.
The removal of the retaining ring/nut (which is under the agitator) . After 10 + years, it was very hard to move this part and it was eventually broke it to remove it. WD40 was used but not effective (to much calicum build up). You must turn the cone shaped piece (located under the inner tub) clock wise to get it to remove. A spanner wrench was not used to remove this. I used a punch and a tack hammer. We could not remove the old tub bearing (closest to the shaft), so we just cleaned it up with emory cloth and used the new tub seal/outer bearing. Spins great but have not been able to check the water leakage problem yet.
Caution: there are two dark colored ring (very thin) that go back on top of the rubber collar. These must be reused. These are hard to see. I pushed the old tub seal/bearing out with the end of a 2x4 (very slowly and carefully). I put the tub up on two of the 2x4's, for clearance off of the floor and used the third to knock the old bearing out. Old machine are very messy.

Our Jenn-Air cook top is 25 years old. One can no longer order parts for this old of model. We ordered new SS burners as well as new Burner cartridge terminal blocks for a new and current model. They work perfectly. Took 10 minutes. $ 350 dollars verses $ 2600 for a new JennAir range plus instillation. Unit looks and works great. Plan to order new switches next.

I took the front panel off the machine and then removed the two screws that held the top on. Cut the hose clamps off the hoses and replace the injector sleeve, valve, housing, and hose to tub. I am not sure what the function of this is, other than to inject air into the water before it goes into the tub. Very easy to do if you know how to open up the washing machine.