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A102S Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for A102S parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A102S
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washer was leaking when water level got about 4 inches in tub

  • Customer: Brian from Bush LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
It was fairly easy, start out by using a screwdriver and push down and out on the front cover and remove it. Take out the 2 small bolts that hold the top cover down to the sides and lift the top cover up and lean it back out of your way. On the bottom side of the agitator there is a small bolt that holds it down, loosen that bolt and pull the agitator out. The hardest part of the entire jod was to use a small chisel and hammer to take off the nut that holds the assembly down.Remember it has reverse threads,you have to use a chisel to back it off and use some WD40 to help remove the calsium build up that is around it. Once you get that large nut off, there is a set screw on the side of the assembly that you have to loosen up before you can take it off, it's a "star driver" head and not a allen wrench set screw.Just take your time and look at your new part and compare it with the old one and take your time and remember how you take the old part off,and you will not have any problem putting the new one on. This was the first time I ever worked on a washing machine, and by checking out the parts first and comparing everything,even someone that might not have much mechanical skills can change this out. My washer works fine and not a drop of water leaks anymore.One thing I did learn, if you change this part out and put it back together and try it out and it makes a funny sound and you smell something like its burning, you might did what I did. I thought I had it to tight, but I put the large nut on before I put the tub back on!!! The agitator was holding the tub down, but it could not spin in spin cycle.... Good luck with you repairs, you can do it.

leak at trans. stem

  • Customer: Mike from Beachwood OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
remove front, 2 screws hold top down, 1 screw holds adgitator on, hammer and punch to remove stem nut (clockwise) used wd40, lift tub out, hammer and punch to remove stem (clockwise), pull seal off, put liquid soap on seal and reverse process, no more leaks!!

Leaking from under tub

  • Customer: Reece from Joplin MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
removed screws on front of washer, removed bolts holding top cover hinged back, nut driver to remove agitator, slipped agitator off, removed tub hoses, did not have special wrench to remove large nut on shaft, used punch and grinder to removed, had new large nut so wasn't concerned about damaging old one, pay attention to thread pattern to know how to turn, if you had special wrench job would be easier, removed spring bolts and took out inside drum and tub. cleaned corrosion and installed new seals, can be hard to slip on new seal, don't use grease, get dishwashing soap to use as lubricant to put on. Put back together and all is good.

no water drain

  • Customer: Franz from Lakeland FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
removed old pully, put new one on with hex driver, removed belts, put new belts on and finished.

Smoking Washing Machine.

  • Customer: Matthew from Wilmington DE
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Well, I figured out a couple of things during this process. #1 The Washer was smoking. It had happened before (a sock got suck between the basket and the tub) so I assumed that happened again. I couldn't see anything in that space this time, so I dissasbemled the washer to see if any clothing was there. Relatively easy once finding the screws to remove the front panel. #2 What I found was a sock in the pump box. I disconnected the hoses and removed it, saw nothing between the basket and tub and ran it to see if problem corrected itself. It still was smoking. That is when I checked the belts, #3 first the pump belt, replaced it, very easy, just pulled the old one off, and wheeled the new one on. It still was smoking, #4 so I replaced the drive belt, very easy and the same as the pump belt. It still was smoking so I lubed the wheels for the belts, and #5 cleaned the residual rubber around the wheel from the old, fried, dry rotted drive belt. No more smoke!!! However #6 remember to leave space between the basket and the top of the tub, as when I put the washer back together the basket didn't spin. I removed the top and ran the spin cycle, it spun fine, reconnected and it didn't spin, the tub top was touching the basket, that's when I relized the top was on too tight. I reattached and left about 1/4 in of space and all is well now.

Weak Agitation Cycle

  • Customer: Carl from Hollis NH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Agitation cycle was rather weak, and wife reported a strange sound and smell (burning belt). Replaced the drive belt (no better behavior). Removed the drive pulley, checked the bearing (with all the grease removed, definite clicking when spinning the bearing). Replaced the bearing. (still no better behavior). Took off the motor and cleaned the mount, including re-lubricating with silicone grease, and checked the springs. (still no better behavior). Did some research online and took a closer look at the drive pulley lug. It seems that I put the lug back incorrectly, forcing the pulley up too tightly so it could not spin back down the shaft. Once I put it back on correctly (I think), the agitation problem seemed to be fixed. So, it is likely that replacing the drive belt and/or bearing solved the problem, but that was masked due to my putting the lug on incorrectly. DIYers beware.

washer was leaking

  • Customer: jason from euless TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
first i removed front panel by pulling it from the bottom and then removing the top. then i removed the agitator with a 1/4 nut driver. then i had to open top lid which is hinged and held together by two 1/2 inch bolts. after i opened up the top of the washer i had to remove the white plastic top of the inner tub. in order to remove the inner tub there is a large nut that i had to use a punch and a hammer to break it loose. don't forget this nut is counterclockwise to loosen.hint use a little wd40 due to calcium build up around nut. once the inner tub is removed you should see the rubber bushing. be sure to remove all rust and water calcium build up before installing new bushing. i used a wool pad. put everything back together the way you took it apart and it should fix your leak.

Washing machine lid hinge balls fell off machine lid

  • Customer: Sandra L from Warren OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
First I had to hold the balls into the little holes on the side of the lid - one at a time- and tap the plastic ball into the side with a small hammer. I did the same with the other side. Silde the lid to match the holes located on the washing machine - give a little push to make sure that the balls are in place. You have your lid fixed to your machine where you can lift the lid and it will stay up without falling.

Note: If the balls fall out - make sure to tap a little harder so that the balls stay in place.

belt was slipping

  • Customer: ROBERT from MORGAN CITY LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 7 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
The job went fast an well

Floor floded when washer started.

  • Customer: Keith from Big Sur CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Thirty year old Maytag washer. Remove two screws at bottom of front panel with Philips screw driver. Hinge panel up to disconnect front panel from top of machine. Tilt washer back against wall to gain access to pulley at underside of washer. Then remove Philips head screw from bottom of center shaft. Remove bevel washer with screw. Remove stop block from end of center shaft and wind the pulley off center shaft. Clean center shaft of any debris and lightly coat with grease. Install belt on new pulley and motor, wind new pulley on center shaft. Replace stop block, washer, screw, and front cover.

Heard squealing sound when washer went into the "spin" mode. Tub did not spin

  • Customer: Edward from Stroudsburg PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Replaced the 2 belts according to instructions received with the belts. Very easy repair

WASHER LEAKED WATER FROM BOTTOM SEAL

  • Customer: JACLYN from RICE LAKE WI
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED WASHER TUBS INNER AND OUTER
NUT (PART # 10 ) ON INNER WAS HARD TO REMOVE AND IS A REVERSE THREAD USED HAMMER TO LOOSEN ONCE OFF REMOVED 1ST TUB - THEN REMOVED SET SCREW #17 AND THEN UNSCREWED MOUNTING S ITEM #29 THIS AGAIN REQUIRED SOME HAMMER TAPPING TO LOOSEN - ONCE OFF USED FLAT HEAD SCREWDRIVER TO PRY & REMOVE THE RUBBER PIECE ON BOTTOM OF OUTER OR 2ND TUB -BUT KEEP GOING AS THE LEAK WILL PROBABLY BE FROM PART #20 TUB BEARING ( THIS WILL SAVE YOU THE TIME TO TEST AND FIND OUT IT STILL LEAKS AND HAVE TO TAKE APART AGAIN AFTER ONLY REPLACING #29 REMOVED 3 BOLTS HOLDING TUB - DISCONNECTED HOSES AND REMOVED 2ND TUB - USED RUBBER HAMMER TO KNOCK OUT AND INSTALL #20 TUB BEARING - REASEMBLED AND WOW NO LEAKS TO COST ABOUT $120 - TIME WORKED ON 3 HRS - ONLY BECAUSE TOOK APART 2 TIMES - DOWN TIME ON WASHER 10 DAYS AS WE DIDN'T ORDER ALL PARTS TO START WITH NO BEER NEEDED BUT DID ENJOY A NICE RED WINE - GOOD LUCK

Main drive belt worn

  • Customer: Stephan from Yonkers NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Tilted the machine back on a 45 degree angle while a friend held it tilted I grabbed the pump belt and removed it and then removed the main drive belt by turning it and derailing it off track . but the new belts on using a reverse technique by rerailing the new belts on to the pulleys. pushing the main motor away from the spring tension made it easier . very simple staight forward job. similiar to putting a chain on a bicycle!

tub leaked

  • Customer: Fritz from Redway CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
followed instructions elsewhere here. Procedure went flawlessly
To undo the nut I used a 1 1/2 " long x 5/16 bolt to hammer on.

STILL LEAKS. Needed PS2347235 =Tub Bearing Kit . Going back in...
THe remainder concerns the bearing procedure:
The 3 bolts holding the outer tub to the legs have rectangular washers. Those are not totally flat, and are marked for outside, top ... so pay attention. It might make a difference.
Outer tub came off the rubber bushing. Took some pulling the bushing off the shaft, and removing the sleeve bearing was a challenge at first, it would not move on the transmission shaft. Soaked with wd40 overnight. Drove it off with cold chisel (driving upward). For re-attaching the 3 tub bolts I used a ratchet tiedown strap to pull the 3 legs together to get enough thread to start, what with all those washers and things.
Ran spin cycle dry for 3 minutes as per instructions before filling with water. Success.

The plunger was worn down. Washer would shut off during the washing cycle.

  • Customer: John from Coal Valley IL
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 12 of 27 people found this instruction helpful
I started by unplugging the washing machine from the wall outlet. I then proceded to remove four screws from the top of the control panel. After removing the screws I put two flat head screwdrivers on each side of the lid and applied force to pry the lid from the ball joints holding it in place. This was the part that was the most difficult in my opinion. After the lid was off, I removed the bolt that was holding the fuse switch in place and removed that from the slots. Next I unscrewed the two screws on opposite sides of the switch head where it makes the contact with the lid. This allows you to remove the switch assembly out of the unit. Once the assembly was out, I assembled pieced the new parts together by looking at the old parts. Then, I placed the new assembly back in the unit. Be careful when you put in the new assembly that you test the switch and make sure you hear the "Click" from the switch. After that I reversed all the steps and put the unit back together.
All Instructions for the A102S
31-45 of 162