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Models > A101 > Instructions

A101 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for A101 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the A101
31-45 of 155
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Leaking Tub Seal

  • Customer: jerry from haslet, TX
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The task to replace the tub seal would have been relatively easy had it not been for the need of a special spanner wrench to remove the nut securing the seal. Instead of purchasing the one time use spanner wrench which was only available on line and would have delayed my repair I elected to cut the putty metal nut off with a cutting dremel tool. This was a delecate process to ensure one did not damage anything else in the process of cutting the nut. Once complete a set screw, pipe wrench and common screwdriver, hammer and tap punch was all that was used. Easy process from removal to installation and the leak was fixed saving significant $$$ over having a "maytag repairman" perform the fix...parts select video helped describe everything and cost while not cheap was significantly less for an adept DIY customer.

The pump starting leaking around the center portion.

  • Customer: Kenny from Covington, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The hardest part was figuring out how to get the front panel off of the washer. Once that was done, the pump came off easy.... 3 screws attached it to the bottom panel and 2 hose had to be disconnected. Putting the new one in was easy.

Washing Machine Tub would not drain

  • Customer: CHRISTOPHER from BOCA RATON, FL
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that held the front panel in place. Then I determined that the belt for the pump had fallen off because the drive belt was worn (and inverted) and a piece was hanging off and causing the pump belt to slip off the motor. I replaced the belt for the pump (Temporarily) to allow the tub to drain.

I replaced both belts with new belts and returned the front panel. The process took 15 minutes due to the necessity of explaining the proper use of tools to a neighbor child and allowing him to assist (required for the completion of one of his Cub Scout requirements).

Weak Agitation Cycle

  • Customer: Carl from Hollis, NH
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
Agitation cycle was rather weak, and wife reported a strange sound and smell (burning belt). Replaced the drive belt (no better behavior). Removed the drive pulley, checked the bearing (with all the grease removed, definite clicking when spinning the bearing). Replaced the bearing. (still no better behavior). Took off the motor and cleaned the mount, including re-lubricating with silicone grease, and checked the springs. (still no better behavior). Did some research online and took a closer look at the drive pulley lug. It seems that I put the lug back incorrectly, forcing the pulley up too tightly so it could not spin back down the shaft. Once I put it back on correctly (I think), the agitation problem seemed to be fixed. So, it is likely that replacing the drive belt and/or bearing solved the problem, but that was masked due to my putting the lug on incorrectly. DIYers beware.

washer was leaking

  • Customer: jason from euless, TX
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
first i removed front panel by pulling it from the bottom and then removing the top. then i removed the agitator with a 1/4 nut driver. then i had to open top lid which is hinged and held together by two 1/2 inch bolts. after i opened up the top of the washer i had to remove the white plastic top of the inner tub. in order to remove the inner tub there is a large nut that i had to use a punch and a hammer to break it loose. don't forget this nut is counterclockwise to loosen.hint use a little wd40 due to calcium build up around nut. once the inner tub is removed you should see the rubber bushing. be sure to remove all rust and water calcium build up before installing new bushing. i used a wool pad. put everything back together the way you took it apart and it should fix your leak.

Water leak

  • Customer: richard from Tarzana, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver
  • 8 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Tilted the washing machine back at 45 degree angle. Removed three screws from the underside of machine. Slipped belt off pump. Lessened two hose clamps and removed hoses.
Lifted old pump out. Dropped new pump in place.
Screwed in the 3 screws. Slipped on the belt.
Attached two hoses. Tightened hose clamps.
Set washing machine upright.

No more leak.
My problem was I could not prove the pump was the source, but after switching it out I have had no problems (good enough).

Leaking from under tub

  • Customer: Reece from Joplin, MO
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
removed screws on front of washer, removed bolts holding top cover hinged back, nut driver to remove agitator, slipped agitator off, removed tub hoses, did not have special wrench to remove large nut on shaft, used punch and grinder to removed, had new large nut so wasn't concerned about damaging old one, pay attention to thread pattern to know how to turn, if you had special wrench job would be easier, removed spring bolts and took out inside drum and tub. cleaned corrosion and installed new seals, can be hard to slip on new seal, don't use grease, get dishwashing soap to use as lubricant to put on. Put back together and all is good.

Leak from tub and burning smell when initiating spin.

  • Customer: Scott from Hinkle, KY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
There is one good description already posted. I would add:1)If the the nut holding the inner tub doesn't loosen easily just split it with a chisel and don't waste time. 2)Don't order extra washers to remount the outer tub, they come with the bearing! 3)While disassembled I ran the spindle on spin to make sure the brake assemlby wasn't the problem. It ran quietly and smoothly. 4)The inner bearing sleeve was stuck on the spindle and didn't want to free up. I used a rotary tool to cut a groove in the old bearing sleeve then chiseled on the groove edge and it split nicely. It was very brittle. The washer seems to work well now. Next time I see a leak I am going to repair it right away!

tub leaked

  • Customer: Fritz from Redway, CA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
  • 7 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
followed instructions elsewhere here. Procedure went flawlessly
To undo the nut I used a 1 1/2 " long x 5/16 bolt to hammer on.

STILL LEAKS. Needed PS2347235 =Tub Bearing Kit . Going back in...
THe remainder concerns the bearing procedure:
The 3 bolts holding the outer tub to the legs have rectangular washers. Those are not totally flat, and are marked for outside, top ... so pay attention. It might make a difference.
Outer tub came off the rubber bushing. Took some pulling the bushing off the shaft, and removing the sleeve bearing was a challenge at first, it would not move on the transmission shaft. Soaked with wd40 overnight. Drove it off with cold chisel (driving upward). For re-attaching the 3 tub bolts I used a ratchet tiedown strap to pull the 3 legs together to get enough thread to start, what with all those washers and things.
Ran spin cycle dry for 3 minutes as per instructions before filling with water. Success.

Washer did not drain.

  • Customer: Basil from St. Charles, MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Socket set
  • 7 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Took front panel off. Ran machine. Pump is see-through. Could not see any "aeration" of the water in the pump and no water was coming out of drain hose. Disconnected electric. Disconnected hose from drum to pump(first emptied ALL water from drom)and drained in bucket. Disconnected drain hose from pump to drain and drained any water. Checked for obstructions in hoses. Removed pump. Checked belt (was fine after 14 years). Ordered new pump. Received the next day! Replaced pump and tighten belt. Connected hoses and test it. All OK. Replace panel and did laundry.

washer was leaking when water level got about 4 inches in tub

  • Customer: Brian from Bush, LA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
It was fairly easy, start out by using a screwdriver and push down and out on the front cover and remove it. Take out the 2 small bolts that hold the top cover down to the sides and lift the top cover up and lean it back out of your way. On the bottom side of the agitator there is a small bolt that holds it down, loosen that bolt and pull the agitator out. The hardest part of the entire jod was to use a small chisel and hammer to take off the nut that holds the assembly down.Remember it has reverse threads,you have to use a chisel to back it off and use some WD40 to help remove the calsium build up that is around it. Once you get that large nut off, there is a set screw on the side of the assembly that you have to loosen up before you can take it off, it's a "star driver" head and not a allen wrench set screw.Just take your time and look at your new part and compare it with the old one and take your time and remember how you take the old part off,and you will not have any problem putting the new one on. This was the first time I ever worked on a washing machine, and by checking out the parts first and comparing everything,even someone that might not have much mechanical skills can change this out. My washer works fine and not a drop of water leaks anymore.One thing I did learn, if you change this part out and put it back together and try it out and it makes a funny sound and you smell something like its burning, you might did what I did. I thought I had it to tight, but I put the large nut on before I put the tub back on!!! The agitator was holding the tub down, but it could not spin in spin cycle.... Good luck with you repairs, you can do it.

Floor floded when washer started.

  • Customer: Keith from Big Sur, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
Thirty year old Maytag washer. Remove two screws at bottom of front panel with Philips screw driver. Hinge panel up to disconnect front panel from top of machine. Tilt washer back against wall to gain access to pulley at underside of washer. Then remove Philips head screw from bottom of center shaft. Remove bevel washer with screw. Remove stop block from end of center shaft and wind the pulley off center shaft. Clean center shaft of any debris and lightly coat with grease. Install belt on new pulley and motor, wind new pulley on center shaft. Replace stop block, washer, screw, and front cover.

Leaking near one of the seal clamps

  • Customer: JIM from PINE RIVER, MN
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
Thoroughly cleaned the edges to be sealed with a wire brush and sand paper. shimmed the top piece with 1/4 inch plywood strips. seated the top piece with the seal attached and worked the seal down into place. Positioned the seal clamp, carefully, and tightened the clamp screws. Replacing the seal did the trick, even though the old seal did not look to be in bad shape.

no water drain

  • Customer: Franz from Lakeland, FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 14 of 9 people found this instruction helpful
removed old pully, put new one on with hex driver, removed belts, put new belts on and finished.

Washer Leaked Water From Bottom Seal

  • Customer: JACLYN from RICE LAKE, WI
  • Difficulty: Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
  • 6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Removed washer tubs inner and outer nut (part # 10 ) on inner was hard to remove and is a reverse thread used hammer to loosen once off removed 1st tub - then removed set screw #17 and then unscrewed mounting s item #29 this again required some hammer tapping to loosen - once off used flat head screwdriver to pry & remove the rubber piece on bottom of outer or 2nd tub -but keep going as the leak will probably be from part #20 tub bearing ( this will save you the time to test and find out it still leaks and have to take apart again after only replacing #29 removed 3 bolts holding tub - disconnected hoses and removed 2nd tub - used rubber hammer to knock out and install #20 tub bearing - reasembled and wow no leaks to cost about $120 - time worked on 3 hrs - only because took apart 2 times - down time on washer 10 days as we didn't order all parts to start with no beer needed but did enjoy a nice red wine - good luck
All Instructions for the A101
31-45 of 155