This an authentic OEM 40-Watt replacement light bulb, used in a number of household appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, which is why these replacement bulbs are mos...
$11.73
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The flat style oven igniter kit is used in gas ovens and ranges. It is what provides the heat needed to open the gas valve, and it ignites fuel for the burner assembly. This part can be used for both ...
$57.79
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The temperature sensor on your oven detects the temperature within the oven cavity. If you notice your oven is too hot, not hot enough, or does not heat evenly, the short oven sensor kit may need repl...
$46.33
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This is a multi-use and multi-appliance screw. It can be used on a microwave, refrigerator, range/oven, air conditioner, dehumidifier, washer, or dryer. The measurements of this screw are 8 x 1/2 inch...
$20.79
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This is a replacement oven rack and it is designed for use with ranges and ovens. This is a genuine OEM replacement part. The rack provides a level and stable surface for cookware inside of your appli...
$90.62
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The oven door gasket on your range functions as a seal between the warm interior of your oven, and the outside. It prevents heat from fleeing your oven when the door is closed. Before making any repai...
$87.22
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The light cover lens in your oven is designed to protect the light bulb. If your light cover lens is damaged, you will need to replace it. This part is made of clear glass and is roughly 3 inches in d...
$64.44
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This broil pan is fourteen inches wide, and almost sixteen inches long. It is made of black porcelain.
No Longer Available
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Shirley
June 28, 2022
We have this magic chef oven that keeps giving us an error code FI continuous peeping and at first it would just go off even when oven not turned on. Now when using the oven it starts to beep with the same error code and turns off the temp in the oven. It's an older model #9475VRN. Can someone suggest what can be done? Thanks,
For model number 9475VRV
Hello Shirley, Thank you for the question. The F1 error code indicates the Electronic Oven Clock Control is faulty. We are sorry, we looked up the part and it is listed as No Longer Available/Discontinued. There are no part substitutions listed. Our suggestion here would be to call the manufacturer and see if they can provide you with a substitution for these part numbers and contact us back with the updated substitution number. We hope this helps!
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The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and f
... Read moreound this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
Repair tech checked oven and said the control panel was bad and needed to be replaced. The new control panel would cost over $450.00! I found that the oven sensor was bad and replaced it for $30.00. The old oven sensor had failed following a self cleaning cycle. I found that the wires coming out of it were burnt.
Replacing
... Read morethe oven sensor was very easy. I removed the back panels 6 screws to gain access to the sensor's connection. I then removed the 2 screw that hold the sensor in place inside the oven and pulled the old sensor out through the oven. I reversed this process to place the new sensor in the oven.
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve
... Read morefor the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.