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91142656590
91142656590 Kenmore Cooktop - Overview
Sections of the 91142656590
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Switch Seal
PartSelect #: PS243590
Manufacturer #: WB2X9504
This part goes between the infinite switch (under the cooktop) and the knob.
$32.19
In Stock
SURFACE DUAL RADIANT ELEMENT 9" KIT"
PartSelect #: PS16225972
Manufacturer #: WB30X38934
This dual element can be changed to be used as either a small or large burner. It comes with the element limit switch.
$262.51
On Order
SURFACE RADIANT ELEMENT 8" KIT"
PartSelect #: PS16225968
Manufacturer #: WB30X38926
No Longer Available
Surface Burner Switch - 6 Inch- 1200W
PartSelect #: PS236391
Manufacturer #: WB23M8
$136.48
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 91142656590
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Common Symptoms of the 91142656590
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Flat surface stovetop element was burned out
1. Removed brackets holding the cooktop in place.
2. Removed the cooktop.
3. Removed the screws holding the housing for the elements.
4. Removed bad element.
5 Connected new element.
6. Reassemble
2. Removed the cooktop.
3. Removed the screws holding the housing for the elements.
4. Removed bad element.
5 Connected new element.
6. Reassemble
Parts Used:
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Leslie from Meridian, MS
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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Intermitently the switch would stick on high.
Pulled unit from the counter top, removed all side screws holding the top on and set the top off. Removed switch mount section, Identified the terminal wire locations. I then removed the old switch and connected the wires per my diagram. Returned all screws, tested the burner for opeation and reset the cooktop back into the counter hol
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e and secured.
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Parts Used:
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Larry from Mattawa, WA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
14 of 21 people
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Right front heating element was not working
First removed the back of range, then the metal vent section that prevented the range top from lifting up. There are 2 screws accessable only after you open the oven door that need to be removed before you can lift up the glass top. Then remove the bracket holding the 2 front heating elements. Made a diagram of all wires going to and fr
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om the large 2 element heater. I had to use an adjustable wrench to remove the 2 studs that were screwed into the sheetmetal section of the element. Carefull not to let the springs or retaining washers get lost.
I examined the inner and outter heating element windings and discovered that the old and new unit was not wired the same. Additionally the instructions were not very clear as to what color wire they said to cut and why. I could not install the studs in the exact locations as the original unit since trhe new one had a slightly different terminal block location. This resulted in the new unit being rotated about 20 degrees CCW looking from under the top. The wire going to the LED heating indicator was now too short so I used the wire supplied with the new unit to extend this.
I used a multi-meter to verify the coil terminal locations and made sure the colored wires went to the same terminals as the original assembly. (Inner coil, outter coil and common terminal) The instructions supplied did not show the same terminal locations as the unit itself for these 3 terminals. Other terminals, which were simply junction points, were the same as the original unit.
By using an ohm meter and the diagram of the colored wires made before taking off any wires one should be able to do this repair. But it was not easy. Ckeck all wires 3 times before turning on power.
I examined the inner and outter heating element windings and discovered that the old and new unit was not wired the same. Additionally the instructions were not very clear as to what color wire they said to cut and why. I could not install the studs in the exact locations as the original unit since trhe new one had a slightly different terminal block location. This resulted in the new unit being rotated about 20 degrees CCW looking from under the top. The wire going to the LED heating indicator was now too short so I used the wire supplied with the new unit to extend this.
I used a multi-meter to verify the coil terminal locations and made sure the colored wires went to the same terminals as the original assembly. (Inner coil, outter coil and common terminal) The instructions supplied did not show the same terminal locations as the unit itself for these 3 terminals. Other terminals, which were simply junction points, were the same as the original unit.
By using an ohm meter and the diagram of the colored wires made before taking off any wires one should be able to do this repair. But it was not easy. Ckeck all wires 3 times before turning on power.
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Parts Used:
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Eugene from Hilton Head, SC
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
9 of 16 people
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