9114264991 Kenmore Cooktop - Instructions

Pulled unit from the counter top, removed all side screws holding the top on and set the top off. Removed switch mount section, Identified the terminal wire locations. I then removed the old switch and connected the wires per my diagram. Returned all screws, tested the burner for opeation and reset the cooktop back into the counter hole and secured.

First removed the back of range, then the metal vent section that prevented the range top from lifting up. There are 2 screws accessable only after you open the oven door that need to be removed before you can lift up the glass top. Then remove the bracket holding the 2 front heating elements. Made a diagram of all wires going to and from the large 2 element heater. I had to use an adjustable wrench to remove the 2 studs that were screwed into the sheetmetal section of the element. Carefull not to let the springs or retaining washers get lost.
I examined the inner and outter heating element windings and discovered that the old and new unit was not wired the same. Additionally the instructions were not very clear as to what color wire they said to cut and why. I could not install the studs in the exact locations as the original unit since trhe new one had a slightly different terminal block location. This resulted in the new unit being rotated about 20 degrees CCW looking from under the top. The wire going to the LED heating indicator was now too short so I used the wire supplied with the new unit to extend this.

I used a multi-meter to verify the coil terminal locations and made sure the colored wires went to the same terminals as the original assembly. (Inner coil, outter coil and common terminal) The instructions supplied did not show the same terminal locations as the unit itself for these 3 terminals. Other terminals, which were simply junction points, were the same as the original unit.



By using an ohm meter and the diagram of the colored wires made before taking off any wires one should be able to do this repair. But it was not easy. Ckeck all wires 3 times before turning on power.

GE changed the design a little, moving a connector so the existing wires didn't reach. I texted the model number to an address provided with the part, and GE returned a URL for installation instructions. The instructions said there should be two jumpers to extend the wires, but there was only one, so I had to make a trip to the hardware store to get connectors to make my own jumper. Read the instructions carefully for where to connect the wires. My initial connection was wrong, but nothing bad happened, just the unit didn't heat. Two mounting tabs from the old unit need to be moved to the new. Heat shrink tubing is provided to cover the joints where the jumpers connect to the old wiring. If the jumper hadn't been missing, it would have been a quick, easy install.

When I ordered, nobody (19 different web sites) had the part in stock. GE took over 2 months to ship the part to PartSelect, but finally the stove is fully functional again.

Cooktop lifted out without the need to remove any fastening of any kind. Slid two 2X2 sticks under top to have access to screws around perimeter. After removing all screws I lifted the glass top from base. I did all of this before I placed the order to make sure that I was ordering the correct element. Good thing that I did that because there are two similar replacements. I would have ordered the wrong one and the more expensive one had I guessed. The replacement unit has a wire lead with a insulated connector and a diagram where to install it. The original wiring connectors were plenty long enough to reach the terminals. Because of a slight change in the required connections per their diagram I decided to use the new wire, maybe a distance between terminals required the new insulated connector. Be careful when pushing the wire connections on the terminals, I pressed on the heat insulator ring and cracked it. Everything worked out great. The most amazing thing that happened, even though I ordered normal shipping, the element arrived in 24 hours. Can't say enough about Part Select.

We never could figure out how to get the glass top removed to replace the burner. Looked at several instuctional videos and they never wrong in their description of where the 2 screws were to remove it. We finally called Sears Repair. They came out the next day and fixed the problem. The scres were on the side of the stove unit, not under the oven door. Oh well, atleast it works. Part select is excellent and I would use them again. This is the 3rd time I've ordered parts.

Set cooktop circuit breaker to off.
Remove hold-down straps from underneath cooktop.
Lift cooktop from counter.
Remove screws holding glass top to base.
Remove screws holding switches
Remove two screws holding element switch.
Move wires from bad switch to new switch.
Reinstall.