7WDF530PAYM2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

cut power to dishwasher. removed screws all around door panel to get front panel off, leaving top two screws for last. unplugged latch set, removed it. set new one in. screwed top 2 screws in. fit door panel back on. pulled out latch hook from stationary top piece and clicked new on in place.

1. open dishwasher door to horizontal position
2. remove old rinse aid cap by turning counter-clockwise and pulling up
2. install new rinse aid cap by inserting (rotate as necessary to align guide features) and turning clockwise to close.
Done!

THERE WERE NO INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED, COULDN'T FIGURE 0UT HOW TO INSTALL THE NEW ROLLERS ON THE NEW RACK FINALLY INSTALLED THE OLD ROLLERS ON THE NEW RACK AND THEY WERE MUCH EASIER TO INSTALL I DONT UNDERSTAND
WHY THE NEW ROLLERS WERE THE SAME AS THE OLD ROLLERS
EXCEPT FOR THE COST.

The cap fit perfectly-just screwed it right in to position. Turns out I didn't need the gasket.

Followed the video. It works perfectly. Used a small paint scraper to remove stubborn scale where gasket seats. Used steel wool on door to assist in removal of rough scale.

Take out previous one and put in new one.

The lower dish rack rolls directly out of the dishwasher without problem - there is no permanent attachment. The new rack comes as a kit, which includes the 4 required dish rack wheels (Part # 6 in the diagram). One part (only) from the original dish rack needs to be removed and re-installed on the new rack - the upper spray arm tower (Part #5 in the diagram). That is easily removed from the original rack with a 1/8 counterclockwise turn, to disengage the 'feet', and installed on the new rack with a 1/8 clockwise turn. The kit is designed to allow for use on multiple models, so there are 'extra' parts left over, after it is used for the DU8500XX-2 dishwasher. These can be discarded.

removed old door gasket, cleaned gasket groove, and than started new gasket in both corners working my way to middle top of door, made sure gasket was in groove properly w/my fingers. problem solved

Installed new gasket and striker. By not pushing the gasket in all the way , as it is intended to, it stopped the leak. The gasket is made to push in partways or all the way. Worth the money!

I followed installation instructions from this site and all went well.

I first verified that there was 120 volt line voltage getting to the unit. I removed the outer door panel by removing the 10 torx screws located around the panel on the tub side of the door. Two of the screws are longer so note there location for reassembly. The door handle can now be removed. Pull the outer door panel away from the inner panel and remove the connector to the control board. Set the outer door aside. Remove the connector to the door latch.The latch is snapped in position at the top side. Pry using a screw driver to release. Snap new latch in position. Snap on connector, Reassemble door by first reconnecting the control panel connector. install plastic door handle. Mate door to inner panel. Note interlock tabs between outer door and inner panel near the bottom area. Install the 10 screws. The two longer screws are at the top holding the latch and handle.

Just snap it in

it was so easy to repair,any one can do it.

Removing the door was straightforward. However, when the door panel was removed, I grabbed the door and my finger touched and pressed on something on the right side. This is an optical collector which focuses 3 lights (red, blue, green) into a visible slot. After I reinstalled the door, the lights were not visible. I had to disassemble the door a few times and bend this optical collector into the right position. Basically, I bent the collector into the door, so I needed to bend the collector away from the door. And now, everything is fine.

The spray arm repair is super easy. Just click & turn to remove the old arm, repeat to install the new! Less than 2 minutes total time spent on the repair.