7RT18BKXEW00 Roper Refrigerator - Instructions

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

Fan was barely rotating. So unplugged, removed back cover, removed fan and motor from frame work. Removed fan blade from motor shaft. Spun motor shaft which seemed fine. Pryed off back cover of motor to find a large but dry felt washer and a helical capillery slot formed into the motor shaft for carring oil from felt washer to the bearings. Added 30 wt motor oil and some 3in1 oil to felt and reassembled motor, fan and frame work. Plugged in power chord after getting rid of dust and dog hear on coils and is working like new.

followed the video instruction from part select web site

removed the lower door. took out the old gasket, snap in the new one. piece of cake.

A TORX screw driver was needed (not a Phillips screw driver). The replacement of the broken door handle brackets took only 5 minutes. I was disapointed the the new replacement brackets were injection molded plastic rather than the cast metal brackets originally on the refrigerator.

I was able to replace the the shelf bars with no difficulty after finding the right parts on PartSelect. The easy to view measuring menu helped me get the right size for the fit I needed. You always worry when you don't have the item in front of you but they make it easy to gauge. I will use them again. I replaced three bars that had been driving me crazy.

I just simply eliminated the ice buildup with hot water and a knife. But I still have the Defrost Timer Kit for future use.

Took liner out and installed heater and insert kit. In a matter of minutes. I'm a female and was excited to be able to make the repair myself. Especially when I went out to purchase a new one. $55.00 to repair was a lots better than the price of a new one!!!

poured boiling hot water into drain; removed most ice with hair dryer. Clips(2) positions the defrost tray & drain under the freezer condenser. A "home-made" coil of 18g copper wire inserted into the drain hole, & secured to the defrost heater further prevents the drain from iceing shut!

Time to repair was because I had to "thaw" out the refrigerator. The parts replacement were pretty straight forward. Even though the exploded diagrams were very detailed, you have to think like someone trying to build something cheaply. Hidden snaps holding on the plastic parts etc.. The one last glitch, the instructions start off as Version 1 and 2, and then change to Procedure 2 and 3. Except for those minor problems, even thing from ordering the parts,diagrams,delivery and instructions very good.

just poped it in

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

One day the ice cream in the freezer seemed mushy, but the ice was still frozen. There was not water in the ice bin. However, the problem resolved itself. This suggested that the defrost timer had become stuck for an extended time, but then continued to run. The fact that the freezer went back to frozen, implies that all the components of the cooling loop (compressor, condenser & fan, evaporator & fan) were fine. It was possible that the problem was caused by a bad defrost (?evaporator?) thermostat but everything I saw on line suggested that the defrost timer is the culprit about 40 - 50% of the time. Anyway, I followed the instructions in the on-line video at this site for replacing the defrost timer and it was easy. It would have only taken 15 minutes, but I spent a while reading the defrost timer instructions and hunting down a schematic for my refrigerator, to determine which pin the loose wire should go on.

I followed the instructional videos via the PartSelect website. Everything was basically as shown. Problem has been fixed... Thank You!

Take off the cover of compressor area (lower back of the fridge)Take off the cover of the Compressor Relay and Overload, using flat screw driver; then pull the over load first or you can pull both at the same time; use Pliers and flat screwdriver (ps take a picture for position of the relays and wires colors before), replace old parts with the new ones and put them back, NOTE: before plug it back you may like to check the condenser coil, this is the best time to clean it, if is really bad that can be the reason of relay failure.