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7MMSE7999TW0
7MMSE7999TW0 Maytag Washer - Overview
Sections of the 7MMSE7999TW0
[Viewing 8 of 8]
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Suspension Spring
PartSelect #: PS11743345
Manufacturer #: WP63907
The suspension spring supports the outer tub and keeps the tub steady during loads that could cause an unbalance. If this part breaks, is worn down or has stretched out and lost its spring, it could c...
$8.00
In Stock
Clutch Assembly
PartSelect #: PS334641
Manufacturer #: 285785
A clutch assembly (Clutch, Washer Clutch) is found in your washing machine and is responsible for spinning the basket during the spin cycle. The clutch lining can wear over time. If the clutch lining ...
$27.58
In Stock
Agitator Bolt
PartSelect #: PS11741866
Manufacturer #: WP358237
This kit contains one screw with rubber gasket and threaded sealant. The screw head is 7/16".
$7.04
In Stock
Washer Lid Switch
PartSelect #: PS11745957
Manufacturer #: WP8318084
This part is found in your washer. The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the machine that the lid is closed. This part includes the green grounding wire. If your machine is ...
$45.97
In Stock
Thrust Spacer
PartSelect #: PS334562
Manufacturer #: 285587
This is a genuine OEM thrust spacer for your washer, and is also commonly known as a retainer ring. The spacer is about 2.5 inches in diameter, is made of plastic, and is white in color. It is used in...
$7.64
In Stock
Seal, Inner Cap
PartSelect #: PS11748108
Manufacturer #: WPW10072840
This is an inner cap seal, but may also be known as an O-ring, and it is a part for your washing machine. Some symptoms replacing this part will fix include: leaking from your appliance, uncontrollabl...
$11.10
In Stock
Agitator Cap Barrier with Seal
PartSelect #: PS11748113
Manufacturer #: WPW10074580
The O-Ring is included with this cap. It can be purchased separately as Part #WPW10072840.
$11.10
In Stock
Screw, 8/18 x 3/8
PartSelect #: PS11746840
Manufacturer #: WP90767
This screw is sold individually.
$5.42
In Stock
Tub Wear Pads - Package of 3
PartSelect #: PS334620
Manufacturer #: 285744
This package of pads contains three tub wear pads.
$16.85
In Stock
Hose Clamp
PartSelect #: PS11743008
Manufacturer #: WP596669
This hose clamp is used in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often it is found in washers, dishwashers, refrigerators, freezers, dehumidifiers, garbage disposals, or air conditioners. This ...
$11.80
In Stock
Leveling Spring
PartSelect #: PS394983
Manufacturer #: 8316845
This spring is used on the leveling components in a washer. Please note, this spring may differ in appearance, but functions the same as original.
$11.14
In Stock
Foot, Front - Single
PartSelect #: PS11747965
Manufacturer #: WPW10001130
The front facing foot is sold individually. It is used on your washing machine and can also be known as an adjustable leveling leg. This specific front facing leveling leg has a rubber foot. It is imp...
$7.45
In Stock
Questions And Answers for 7MMSE7999TW0
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Common Symptoms of the 7MMSE7999TW0
[Viewing 12 of 12]Will not agitate
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Leaking
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Spins slowly
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Will Not Start
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Will not drain
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Burning smell
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No hot or cold water
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Shaking and Moving
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Spinning Issues
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Does not dispense fabric softener or detergent
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Marks left on clothes
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Lid or door won’t close
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Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
spin cycle did not engage
researched potential causes, found cluch dust under the washer and determined that it wouldn't engage because clutch was too worn. ordered the assembly, removed agitator from inside the tub as it is connected to the gear shaft, turned washer on it's back for access to motor, unattached the direct drive water pump from the motor drive, unb
... Read more
olted the 3 gearcase mounting bolts and took the entire gearcase, shaft, motor, etc... together, out from under the washtub. the clutch slides off the gearshaft with a little fidgeting and the new assembly is easily installed where the previous was. put everything back together... then... spin spin! worked perfectly
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Parts Used:
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Andrew from SLC, UT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
487 of 520 people
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Washer wouldn't run
I removed the two screws on the back of the control panel. The control panel then flips back. The switch is on the left side. To remove the switch, I first detached the wire to the control panel and unscrewed the grounding wire. The new switch drops right in. I had a little trouble getting it in until I realized the washer lid had to
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be open. A little awkward but once it's in you can shut the lid and then I reattached the wire from the control panel and screwed in the grounding wire. Pretty easy. $20 for the part (with shipping) and 15 minutes. Way cheaper than a repairman.
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Parts Used:
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Clint from Kansas City, KS
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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Clothes washer would not spin with more than a couple socks in it. It would barely spin when empty.
Diagnosing the problem was the toughest part. I originally called a repair man - described to him the problem and he said it was most likely the transmission (gearbox)... of course that is one of the most expensive parts! I asked him if it was maybe the clutch... he said there was no clutch.. only a brake... I knew he was wrong after rese
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arching. The fact that the washer would agitate fine and spin very light loads but not spin anything heavy told me it was NOT the gearbox.. or the brake.. it was the clutch.. it had to be... so I called the repair man and canceled the appointment I had made then ordered the clutch assembly. Showed up very quickly. Now to the repair. I realized that I did not have to take apart the cabinet section of the washer.. I only needed access to the bottom. My washer - a 5 year old Whirlpool Gold Ultimate Care II had just a piece of foam blocking off the bottom of the washer... Easy access... I disconnected the hot and cold water and the drain tube. I removed the hot and cold water tubes from the back of the washer also so they would not get crushed when I laid the machine on its back. I unplugged the washer also. The drain tube I left connected to the washer.. I was afaid of it getting crushed while on its back, so I bunched up a large towel put it on the floor and tilted the washer slowly back onto it... the towel was enough of a spacer to keep the drain hose from getting crushed. I used a couple pieces of Duct Tape to hold the lid shut while on its back. I then removed the foam insert on the bottom. Then I unplugged the wiring harness. and a single wire that had a spade connector in the same area. I then removed the clips from the plastic water pump and slid it off the motor (I used Duct Tape again to suspend the water pump up and out of my way while I proceeded) I did NOT have to remove the motor from the gearbox. I used a socket wrench and unbolted the 3 gearbox bolts. I was able to take the whole unit, gearbox and motor out in one piece.. it slid right out (you will have to unscrew the the bolt in the top of the agitator/dispenser shaft - then the gearbox unit with the shaft will slide right out, I did this before I put the washer on it's back) Once it was slid out, I removed the clutch then reinstalled the same way I took it off. The only hard part was the circular wire retainer install for the clutch. It CAN all be done .. I ended up using 2 screwdrivers to put the new retaining ring into the new clutch assembly.. One screwdriver would hold down part of the retaining ring and the other I used to continue pushing the ring into place.. don't give up! You will get it in.. even with normal tools (This was the hardest part of the whole install) It took me 5 minutes with some force and fiddling. I also swapped in the new plastic piece that came with the clutch assembly... you will see where it goes... the old plastic piece looked fine, but I changed it out anyways - it hooks the clutch to the brake system it looks like. After the new clutch assembly was installed I just put it all back together the way I took it apart. One thing I will add was I was not sure if the clutch had to be lined up when I slid the shaft back into the washer.. It does not have to be.. It will align itself automatically. You know when you hear that click/pop when the washer is about to spin?.. well that is that plastic piece engaging with the clutch... there was a piece or two that fell off the shaft when I had removed it.. While sliding the shaft back into the washer I had to just put the pieces back on the shaft before I put the bolt back into the top of the agitator/shaft...
Summary:
Get the washer on its back - unplugged!
remove wire(s) Harness from motor
remove water pump
unbolt 3 bolts holding the gearbox
slide gearbox and motor out as one piece ( a bit heavy)
remove and replace clutch assembly (pay attention to how things are removed)
Done! put it all back together... hope that helps. It worked perfect for me.. and m
Summary:
Get the washer on its back - unplugged!
remove wire(s) Harness from motor
remove water pump
unbolt 3 bolts holding the gearbox
slide gearbox and motor out as one piece ( a bit heavy)
remove and replace clutch assembly (pay attention to how things are removed)
Done! put it all back together... hope that helps. It worked perfect for me.. and m
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Parts Used:
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Shawn from Longmont, CO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
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