7MMPD6845TM0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

The repair took about an hour. My wife told me the washer was so quite that she had to check and make sure it was running. It was like getting a new washer for less than 30 dollars. I've saved Part Select web site to my favorites and will use your company again.

Unplugged the washer and unscrewed hoses. Unscrewed the 2 screws on the back of the control panel and folding it up. Took off the 2 metal ties to get the cabinet off. Once off, I unscrewed the ground from the old Lid Switch and popped out. Put the new Lid Switch in, screwed the ground back in, replaced cabinet, clamps, put the control panel back in place and screwed the 2 screws on back of the control panel back in. Screwed the hoses back on, plugged the washer back in, everything works great again.

Watched the videos that were very helpful and repaired it my self with no problems its fixed and running like new i took a little extra time to clean all of the washer since i had it apart any ways so the time to fix it was probably was a little shorter i would like to thank part select for all there help and videos it made this job so much easier.

There are youtube vids on how to get the thing open. I just wish I'd known the following: 1.remove agitator BEFORE opening the unit up and leaning it back (much easier to work inside the tube with it upright). 2. be aware that a free-floating part known as the skate plate can dislodge while the unit is on it's side/back. It is a generally triangular piece of flat-ish metal between the base of the tub and the top of the drive-train chassis. If it doesn't line up properly after you replace the parts you're going to get a noisy, clanking spin cycle the next time you run the thing (as I discovered).

I pulled out the old cap with my hands and jammed the new thingy into place. The lady of house did the repair. Easy

The prooblem started with the hole in the bottom frame, for tub spring wore through, spring fell off, then a spring retainer worn broke in 2 releasing 1 suspention spring. All springs were about to fail, metal very thin at at the contact points. Drilled a new hole for the new suspension spring, replace all 3 brackets, worn also, springs, and retainers with a small dab of grease at the contact points. The new springs mad the tub more stable than before the failure, and silent when spinning or washing. Be careful to get the springs in the right direction, then the spring comes over the outside the brackets and retainers, other way they rub in spots. On this machine one was backwards from the factory 18 years ago, surely that accounts for more stable running.

I did repair myself with your instructions. it was very easy to do for my age. 84.

watched the video on line showed how to do it took about 45 min no problem

electric unplugged, removed water lines. two screws on back of control housing removed, tilted housing back, removed two clips on top of washer housing, removed body. tilted washer backward, removed brackets on water pump and electric motor, pulled motor off and removed broken parts on shaft, replaced with new parts. Lining up motor shaft to washer was a bit tricky but time and patience got it togather. replaced brackets on motor and water pump. put washer upright and put body back on the body has to be set on guides correctly or will not set right. replace clips andtilt top down and screw it. hook up water lines, and electric.

Followed website instructions, worked for a couple days, appears it needs clutch or possibly transmission(red oil present)

Replaced the agitator cam kit due to noise, and bolt due to wear and corrosion. The repair itself was probably 15 minutes, but when you disassemble the agitator, you find a lot of cleaning needs to be done, which takes another 15min or so.

one thing that you do not need to do is to remove the pump from the motor, I tried to remove it as per the instructions but the pump cracked,remove both inlet and outlet hoses from the pump and remove the pump and motor together, don't try to take them apart, you don't need to, thanks

Did not know problem or how to access - thought the back came off washer. Typed in symptoms and it pretty much pinpointed the most likely cause. Watched video on how to take it apart (BTW the front and sides come off, NOT the back). Followed the guide, took motor off and sure enough one of the plastic couplers was cracked. Ordered from PartSelect and with regular shipping the cost was under $20 (ordered Tues. night, had it by Thurs.) Installed part - note as someone else said the new piece has metal inserts which make it really snug to go around the drive shaft, but the tip about using an oversized socket and some light taps to get it on worked liked a charm. Put it all back together (getting case back on was toughest part)and its been working fine for the last week - heavy & lite loads. Have to say was thinking the whole thing needed to be replaced (sound & age) but for $20 it was worth the shot...Glad i came here first!

It was actually much easier than I expected. The worst part was dealing with the gear oil as I drained it to clean out the plastic pieces that came off the gear. To see how to fix things like this, I went to Google, enter my model and what the problem was and watched a repairman do it. It seemed easy and it was.

The clutch itself was fairly easy to repair. I did use some tips from youtube on disassambly, and the enclosed instructions helped to put the clutch in. There were 3 bolts I had to remove to take the drive assembly off, and 1 to pull the agitator out. And putting it back together it went in almost backwards. All in all, this is a fairly simple procedure in taking the time to complete the steps