Models > 7MMMS0160VW0 > Instructions

7MMMS0160VW0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

All installation instructions for 7MMMS0160VW0 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the washer repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 7MMMS0160VW0
46-60 of 191
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Tub did not center and seal was hanging out of tub

  • Customer: James from Nelsonville OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Socket set
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Laid washer on front side and removed top spring, then lifted the tub assembly to replace the right side spring, the one behind the motor was the hardest, I lifted the tub then removed the spring bracket at the tub with pliers and a socket. The top seal all I had to do was take the 4 screws that hold the top on (it takes a long extension) then sit it bak up and I lifted the top up to give me enough room to unsnap the top piece of the tub, cleaned it up put seal in. The parts fit perfitlt and real fast shipping, I bookmarked the site and will buy from again. JIM

Kenmore Series 80 Lazy Spin

  • Customer: Robert from Henrico VA
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
Remove metal cover; remove pump, remove motor, remove tub spin assembly; remove transmission. Remove clutch be removing retaining ring. Installation was reverse. No problems, part worked like champ.

Note: Called Sears to see if I could get the part locally. Turns our I had to call an 800 number. Lady said that the part was not carried and would have to be shipped from warehouse. Tried to sell me some discharge hoses. Then said the part would cost $65 before S&H. Told her I didn't want to spend that much, she asked how much I wanted to spend and seemed upset when I told her your price. She didn't comp it, just said that theirs was an official part from Sears, blah, blah, blah. Anyway, thanks for the great service!

Tub leaning on one side

  • Customer: Radu from Boca Raton FL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 5 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
Changing the springs was a ...snap. The more delicate task was to figure out how to get to them; for this model, the back panel comes off (after removing 3 screws, the drain hose and drain hose plastic coupler, removing the 2 screws holding the control panel, pivoting the control panel and finally removing two spring clips. Also, the plastic water diverter takes a little bit of patience to be unhooked from its slots in the back panel as it will not slide out with the back panel. With the back panel off, the entire "shell" can be removed, exposing the guts. I twisted the tub to release the tension in the suspension springs and replaced them, one by one. Finally, the counterweight spring. I also lubed the support pads to allow for a "friendlier" leveling. Re-assemble, replace the old and cracked water supply hoses, and time for a beer and my girlfriend's obligatory OOOOHs and AAAAHs... All in all (cleanup and test included..) about one hour.

washing machine will agitate but not spin

  • Customer: Robert from Manchester CT
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set, Wrench(Adjustable)
  • 10 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I removed the cabinet and agitator, layed the machine on it's back, removed the pump, motor and gearcase. I found a way to prop the gearcase up so it rested level, removed the cover, drained the old oil. I removed all internal parts, disassembled them and cleaned them. I reassembled the gearcase using the new uetral drain assembly, and replaced the oil. I made sure the brake assembly was pushed into position and then put the gearcase, motor and pump back in. I sttod the machine up, put the cabinet back on and tested the machine. It still did not spin, so it wasn't the coupler, clutch or nuetral drain assembly.

Washer would not wash,spin or drain.

  • Customer: Michael from Covington LA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I thought that the lid switch was the problem why the washer would not perform the drain or spin cycle. I broke the lid switch by moving the wires around. I rigged it so my daughter could use it by screwing a screw in the switch til the new one came in. After a few days, the machine stopped working again as stated above with the motor. I purchased a new Whir-pool washer for her and later found a white wire that connects to the electric motor was burnt around the connector in that only one tiny wire was still attached. I reconnected the wire in the connector and the washer started working again.

washer would fill but not run

  • Customer: steve from madison SD
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 6 of 11 people found this instruction helpful
After reading other comments about lid switch replacement , I knew the front of the control panel would move forward and lift off. Although none of the descriptions mention the steel clips that were also use to hold the cover down. It does take quite a bit of presure to pry these up and loose before panel would move forward. Would recomend putting tape on both washer and screwdriver to protect washer.

drum SLAMMING into the back of the washer when sipnning

  • Customer: WILLIAM from DAYTON KY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 4 of 5 people found this instruction helpful
I just replaced the spring just like the vid show me.it run's like a new one-I bought it used about 5 yr's ago

drain hose for washer was cracked and leaking

  • Customer: richard from orange CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
This was really easy and the part came in like 2 days. All I needed to do was flipthe washer on its side and remove the old hose...a couple screws and install the new one...it was a perfect match so ...no issue.

My washer stopped mid-cycle and acted completely dead

  • Customer: Jeff from Ventura CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
I thought the click of the lid switch sounded different so I pulled the top console and tested it for continuity in both positions and found none. When I by-passed the switch the washer started up, so I knew what the problem was. There are four screws involved to remove the console which reveals the lid switch to the left side. There's a single screw for a ground wire but the switch itself is simply snapped in place after disconnecting the wire harness plug (must be done with the lid open btw).

I was lucky to diagnose the problem accurately so that the first thing I suspected turned out to be the problem!

The wash cycle did not start.

  • Customer: Dwane from Cincinnati OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the plastic panels on each side the control panel. Each side was secured by a phillips screw. Once the screws were removed the side panels were easily removed. I tilted the panel back to the rear of the washing machine to expose the lid switch. I first took a picture with my camera phone to ensure installing the switch correctly. I removed a small screw that secured a green ground wire. The lid switch was removed by lifting the plastic catch with a flathead (or slot) screwdriver and uplugging the switch. Reverse the steps and install the new switch. Secure and tighten the green ground wire. The lid must be lifted to properly seat the lid's guide arm into the lid switch. Replace the side panels and tighten the phillip screws. Test the wash cycle using a low water level. It took me 5 minutes to install this part. I am a attorney not a mechanic.

Retainer clip for the pump missing, caused pump to fail

  • Customer: Matt from Roca NE
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers
  • 3 of 3 people found this instruction helpful
Pulled hoses off, unclipped the remaining retainer clip, slid old pump off. Slid new pump on replaced the old retainer clip and put the new one on, replaced the 2 hoses, done. It took mabey 10 min.
The part got there in less that 24 hours from the time I placed the order, with standard shipping! I was impressed.

hoses had holes in them

  • Customer: Sharon from Dallas TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 4 of 7 people found this instruction helpful
Put clamps on hose end and then used some dishsoap on the inside of the hose to make pushing them into place easier once in place I placed the clamp in correct spot and used a screwdriver to tighten the clamps.

washer would fill with water but not turn on

  • Customer: luis from ocoee AL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 3 of 4 people found this instruction helpful
REMOVED CONTROL ASSEMBLY FOUND LID SWITCH.HAD TO UNSCREW GROUND WIRE FROM WARSHER POPPED CLIP ON OLD SWITCH CAME RIGHT OUT.HAD TO PLAY WITH LID IN ORDER TO REMOVE.POPPED NEW SWITCH IN SCREWED GROUND WIRE.REINSTALLED CONTROL PANEL,PLUGGED IN AND THE WAY IT WENT.TROUBLE SHOT WITH PARTS DIRECT MADE IT EASY AND SAVED ME 350 DOLLARS(NEW WASHER)

slow or no spin

  • Customer: Steven from Wausau WI
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 1- 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
First read up on what others did and tried to find free repair manual with little luck. Called repairman, they thought whole transmission was shot- would have been $70 just to have them look- forget it. Getting it apart: popped off the two console cosmetic panels to get to a screw on each side from the top. Lifted off console, levered and squeezed retaining clips. Unhooked two connectors and overflow tubing? Shell pulled off easily, getting back on after I was all done made me wonder if it was a good choice. In the end yes- allowed me to clean inside surfaces of both tubs to remove grime and rust. There are many stories on the actual clutch replacement, so won't go into too much detail but some lessons learned. Keep track of the way all the plastic aggitator pieces go in, plus the washers and clips along the way. Deep well 1/2" I think socket for the tub, it's litely spring loaded so look before you set it down. Punching off the nut on the tub worried me, but it was no big deal. Loosens and tightens the normal directions, no positive tight stop, just compression so pay attention to how tight and hard you pounded to get it off. Drain the water from the inner tub before getting too far. I took the four springs off and removed both tubs to clean. No more complaining about brown spots on clothes. Get the whole clutch kit, not just the band, even though it's probably just the band worn out. The plastic clutch engaging piece will probably be fatigued. The motor etc is heavy, and buffered it's drop with rags. tip on side when putting it back, because its a bear to try to lift up. I lightly greased some moving parts, just not much as to not cause band grip problems. The wire retaining clip is tricky- I put the hook end in first, used pliers to try and compress, and screwdriver to push down and in. The whole things wants to spin while you do this, but when it finally goes, it stays. I was concerned about the location of the band spring in relation to it's actuator when putting it together, but it turned out if you put it anywhere where the clutch is free to spin, it will engage normally. The top lid has two rubber bumpers, one fell off and landed on the front bottom corner of the cover which didn't help reinstallaion until my 8year old noticed it! Took a number of tries but finally got the four guides from the frame into the cover. I tried bringing it in level, front tipped sligthly up, front tipped slightly down; in the end I won't be much help, it just finally went. It wasn't as easy as most people said it would be, but my back hurt and I had kids "help", and it took just under two hours. Works amazingly well now. Parts arrived Two days after ordering, with no expiditing!

Spin cycle worked very poorly

  • Customer: Joseph from North Charleston SC
  • Difficulty: Very Difficult
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Pliers, Socket set
  • 2 of 2 people found this instruction helpful
1. Removed back panel.
2. Removed Entire control paned, control and switch units disconnecting wiring assembly from motor.
3 Tilted front and side panel assembly away from frame, tub assembly and motor transmission assembly.
4.Removed cap from top of agitator, removed bolt holding agitator. Removed agitator, this part was tricky since some corrosion on shaft made agitator very difficult to pull off.
4. From bottom of unit disconnected motor/transmission unit from wash tub.
5. Located clutch assembly and removed lock washers. Removed clutch and replaced with new one.
------------------------------------------------------------
Steps 1 thru 3 were unnecessary.
All that needed to be done was to removed the agitator assembly. then turn unit on it's side or back and removed motor and transmission from the bottom.
All Instructions for the 7MMMS0160VW0
46-60 of 191