7MMGE9959TB0 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

The repair went very smooth. I was able to follow the directions on partselect and had the repair done in 15 minutes. I took extra time to test the continuity on the ignitor and fuses. I also used the shop vac to clean out the inside of the dryer. The best part I liked about this web-site is the fact that once I described the problem I was told that the "M" series style coil was the fix 90% of the time! $27.70 including shipping was all it cost to make my clothes dryer work like it did the first day we got it!!

Wouldn't have had a clue how to gain access to the coils without online instructions. It actually took longer to open the front of the unit than it did to replace the parts. Following the online instructions I removed two screws under the lint trap door. I then used a stiff putty knife under the left and right front corners of the lid to release the top, which I tilted back. Per the instructions I easily located the two screws releasing the front of the dryer. You have to lift the drum a bit to release the front panel. Once removed I was able to remove and replace the failing coils and then reversing the steps to put it all back together. An easy job and the dryer is back in shape.

All went very easily

unscrewed the 2 screws holding the coil's in place took wires off one coil at a time tested coils with ohm meter found the two wire coil was bad replaced and scered the bracket that holds the coils back in place.PartSelect gave me a list of what was causing the problem and what the % of what was the cause,this helped alot Thankyou PartSelect

I'm a 65-year-old woman with no prior appliance repair experience. I learned on the web that 30% of the time, the failure-to-heat problem is caused by the valve coil, and 30% of the time, it's the cycling thermostat. So I ordered both parts. I watched installation videos on the web. The valve coil was accessable through a front port on the dryer so I started there. I had to go buy a stubby screwdriver because access to the screws was limited. From there, it was easy to take out the old valve coil and install the new one. Just 5 minutes. I plugged in the dryer again, turned it on, and it worked.

I replaced the Thermal Fuse and Cycling Thermostat first, since they were listed as fixing the problem 45% of the time and 19% of the time, but the dryer still didn't heat. I then ordered and replaced the gas valve solenoids, which solved the problem (but I ended up breaking the dryer belt while re-installing the drum, so that had to be replaced too.) In hindsight, I wish I would have ordered all four parts up front and saved a bit on shipping. Installation was easy, especially with the diagrams that showed where each part would be found.

First I opened the front of my dryer panel to see when the dryer was on if there was any gas flowing. I found that the ignitor was glowing , but no gas was releasing from the valve. So I figured that that is the root of the problem. I changed the old gas valves and replaced them with the new ones. It worked!! The whole process didn't take more than 30 minutes.

After trying to follow a very detailed description by another consumer, we googled our washer and found a site that showed step by step direction that took us through removing all panels and getting to the bellow easily. Not removing the proper panels, we found was making the job hard!I believe the site was applicance services...very helpful! Step by step literally!!Cost of parts through parts select reasonable.

This did not require a "repair", just a replacement. I want to say that the response time and ease of ordering were very good. I would not hesitate to use PartSelect again when needed. Thank you!

pulled out old lint filter. Put in new lint filter.

At first I thought the sensor in the drum part was bad. It had some residue from something on it and looked a bit beat up. Replaced it for 30$ and had the same problem. Note: I decided to take the console panel off because I though it was necessary to get to everywhere else and I found a folded up "repairman trouble shooting guide" in the console. Don't know if this is a common place to put it but it had all the wiring and problems detailed with this dryer. It had step-by-step assessment procedures for any problem. However, I punched the sequence for the "brains" to give me a problem code and it indicated that I needed a new "user interface," a 285$ part. I must have punched it wrong because I started to read other problem descriptions and I realized, based on others, that the most likely cause was the coils that regulate the gas/heat valve. I used the "problem guide" to measure the resistance of the coils (it gives you the proper range for each) and one was outside of what it should have been so I purchased a new set of coils for $20 plus shipping. It took me 2 tries at installing the coils because the cover plate that seats the coils in place was not aligned properly the first time. This cause them to vibrate and rattle when starting up. The coils were a little different in height so I readjusted the cover bracket and seated the coils properly. No rattle and the dryer worked perfectly.

Need a short handled phillips screwdriver. Unplug dryer from socket. Remove two screws near the bottom of the front panel. Swing the panel to one side so electrical wire doesn't need disconnection. Remove two screws holding bracket over the two coils. Unplug both coils. Plug in new coils. Replace bracket. Replace front panel. Plug machine back into electrical socket. Problem solved.

Replaced igniter

I got great advice and the know how form other's instructions. It was a really easy fix. I unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas valve. Open up the dryer by taking out the two screws securing the lint screen. Then pop off the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver. Disconnect the door switch and depending on model remove the two screws or bolts that keep the front panel attached. Careful, on my dryer once took the front panel off the drum fell forward. I kept it in place by wedging a small cardboard box under it. Unplug the two wires going into each of the coils. Remember which one goes where(2 prong vs 3 prong). Undue the two screws holding the bracket to the coils and remove bracket and bad coils. Put the new coils in, attach wires and bracket. Put dryer back together. Make sure to remember to plug back in door switch. I forgot and when I tried to test it wouldn't work and it got me worried that I broke it or something.

I feel like I have a new dryer now. I replace 3 of the 4 main components using parts select. Not only did they ship next day, but the tutorial videos with Steven were right on the money and self explanative.