7GU2300XTVS0 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

Figuring out what was wrong: various reset methods didn't work. Since lights were blinking, it was not a fuse. Keypad ruined? Controller board ruined? I decided on the latter and ordered. 1. Removed Torx screws from the back of the washer door. 2. Removed several connectors from the circuit board, then the board itself. 3. Sat still and grounded myself to dissipate static electricity, then inserted the connectors on the replacement circuit board. 4. Reassembled the door and replaced the Torx screws. 5. Closed the door and started a rinse cycle. 6. Waited and waited and waited while the circuit board did a reset or self-test or whatever. 7. Finally, there were no lights, started a wash cycle. 8. VOILA! It works!

I had a repair guide for my dishwasher which helped. First I removed the water distribution system inside the dishwasher and then removed the door panel. Next I removed the front bottom access panel. I placed a pan under the pump and hoses to catch water when I removed the outlet hose. Very important here! One must remove the pressure switch from the outlet port or else you can't get the pump clear of the washer tub. Next I removed the drain pump by releasing the catch and turning the pump counter clockwise. Now for one of the hard steps. I had to remove three pins which hold the pump assy to the wash tub. Two of them are out of sight so you have to weave you hand past all the hardware and "feel" for the back two. At this point the pump assy just lifts out. Remove the motor /pump by removing one bolt and turning it counter clockwise and withdrawing. I put the new one in. Don't forget to put the pump screen in as I missed this and had to redo the job. Reverse all the previous steps being careful to keep the motor guard out of the pump seal area. Use lots of silicon seal grease and check for leaks on first power up. It took me a couple of adjustments to get a leak-free seal.

Removed dishwasher from under the counter and took it to my shop. With the washer on its side, I removed the motor, then the impeller and seal. I then disassembled the motor and replaced the front bearing(purchased separately). This required an arbor press. I then reassembled the motor and installed the new seal and impeller. Reassembled in reverse order. Reinstalled under the counter and made conections. Checked for leaks and proper operation.

My KitchenAid dishwasher's upper dishrack had several places that were completing rusting out, just leaving the skins of the plastic coating in place. I ordered the upper dishrack - just the dishrack, none of the clips or other items shown in the schematic - and installed it pretty easily. One caution - this is JUST the upper dishrack. If you have two rows of tines that are clipped in and flip-flop back and forth on the left and right wider sides of the rack, you will need to order one or two pieces of part # PS 898500 as well. One of my tine rows was in salvageable shape, so I only needed to order one (in a second order upon discovering I it wasn't included). It wasn't difficult to figure out how the clips could come out and snap back in place. Just be careful, know that these are just plastic items and can break easily.

Disconnected the power and hot water supply.
Removed mounting screws under the counter, and the lower panel screws to expose the leveling screws.
Backed the leveling screws up so that the unit would slide out more easily
Walked the unit out to where I could reach the back side.
Disconnected the two power wires from the heater coil (slide off)
Unscrewed the plastic nuts holding the heater in place and removed the heater coil.
Replaced the heater coil and nuts.
Reversed the process above to install.

This was a fairly easy repair. It took me a little over an hour to complete. First I flipped the circuit breaker for the dishwasher; then I removed the dishwasher from the cabinet and disconnected the supply, and return lines. I removed both racks from dishwasher, the lower washer arm, and the plastic conduit that supplies water to the upper rack. I then turned the unit onto it's side, and pulled the three or so cables that went to the motor, along with the three plastic wedges that held the motor in place. I then pushed the old motor through, into the interior of the dishwasher. This required me to disconnect some additional components to get it to fit through the opening, including the large silver capacitor. I then compared the old motor to the new one, and transferred some of the parts from the old motor to the new one that weren't included with the new one. I then pushed the new motor through the opening. This required a second person, who replaced the plastic wedges, while I pushed on the motor. The cables, supply lines, drain lines, and components that wouldn't fit through the opening were then replaced; the interior of the dishwasher was also reassembled.

My husband pulled out the dishwasher and removed the faulty part and installed the new one. We found info on the parts source website to assist us. Dishwasher works great!!! Someone from the company we purchased it from had replaced it several years ago, and the seal at the bottom had leaked and the motor had siezed because of the water. We also discoved that the water line was severly kinked in 2 places, so we installed a flexable hose. Now my dishwasher is quiet, fills much faster and all this for a fraction of the price of a new appliance. Would recommend this website.

that there is 90% of the repair made easy when you have the correct part. there is no better then direct replacement parts. the repair was self explanitory. one screw, two lines, lock in place, done. thanks for having the correct parts,that is what makes a job simple.

Take 10 lower star srews from inside of door (5 per/side) that hold on front. Remove front door panel. Remove 6 screws in detergent dispenser and replace.

I watched the instructional videos that showed how to replace the inlet fill hose/water inlet a couple of times. The repair was exactly as shown. No trouble at all.

Make sure you order 2. One on each side

I just placed the cap back on, it worked great, fit fine and so glad I found this part. I was thinking of ways to McGyver it, thinking it would be impossible to find a new part. Glad i fount this site and the part.

I simply pulled out the old gasket and pushed the new one in with my fingers. I had to trim about an inch off the length with a utility knife. The seal is nice and tight now and we have no more water leakage.

After reading other posts I opened the dishwasher door put a support underneath it. Knowing that all the screws were not the same I carefully unscrewed them and placed them on a towel in order of extraction. After all the screws were taken out, I lifted the door up gently and lifted it out of its place and put it aside. Now I could see the hex screws holding in the soap dispenser. I then unscrewed the screws and place the frame aside. Next I gently pulled the electrical connector to the dispensing unit off. After locating a snap tab on top on the left hand side and one underneath on the right hand side, I gently lifted the tab and the dispenser unit moved slightly forward. After gently prying the lower tab on the right hand side the dispensing unit was loose. I just reversed the process to put things back together. I was not necessary to have any help taking things apart but it was very helpful having a second set of hands when we put it back together. Lining up the screws for the door was much easier with two people. After installation, I started the dishwasher to check for leaks. Everything was fine. Very satisfied to be able to repair/replace this unit without calling a tech. If you can change a spark plug on a lawnmower you can replace a soap dispenser on a dishwasher such as mine. Very quick delivery from parts source. Thank you.

Soap dispenser unit could have been repaired by pushing the plastic arm back home and adding two drops of instant glue to keep the plastic shaft in proper place. Didn't need to purchage a new unit.