7DU1100XTSQ5 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

One of the upper rack wheels mounting pegs broke off and fell into the chopper assembly which broke it. It took about 1 hour to figure out how the dishwasher comes apart. The assembly is under the protector cover assembly. To get to this you need a TORX screwdriver. The feed tube assembly is held on by two clips. Rotate it clockwise to free if from the accumulator assembly. Four screws remove this cover and one more screw takes off the protector cover. You remove this cover by lifting it straight up. The whole assembly needed to be cleaned from food particles. It was difficult inserting the new chopper assembly. After a few tries , it finally fit. Putting it back together took only 30 minutes. Cleaning took more than 2 hours.

Watched the "how to" video, then did the job. All in 15 minutes.

My main fear was finding the part and not knowing my dishwasher model without looking it up in the owner's manual. Imagine my joy to find the part color-coded on the website and extremely easy to find!!!

Repair was easy. After readjusting the dishwasher so that it wasn't leaning forward (it still leaked) I replaced the Door Gasket. Pulled one end out about 2 ft and pushed in the new one as I pulled the old one out and pushed the new one in. Came out and went in easy, just used a big screw driver to slighting push the new gasket in to make sure it fit snug. Fit, Form & Function was all correct. Works like a sharm, no more leaks and door does fit snug when closing. All good.

Repair was simple. Pulled out the old gasket and pushed in the new one.

Ordered Rinse Aid Cap and received the next day. Placed in the dishwasher Rinse Aid Cap position and locked in. A perfect fit.

Before I ordered the replacement part I carefully disassembled the front panel of the dishwasher,and I documented the placement of all parts and electrical connections using sketches and photgraphs. When I attempted to peal off the printerd electrical panel from behind the touch buttons the circuit board tore.Therfore I went on line to find a replacement printed circuit board. Without any difficulty I was able to order the proper part which arrived in aout 1 1/2 days. Except for the lack of directions I was satisfied with your service, and would reccomend your company to anyone.

Ordered the gasket on line. Received gasket in 3 days. Removed old gasket by pulling out in one piece. Pressed the new one in with my fingers and it fit perfectly and now have no leaks. Very easy fix.

The service video was great. This is a great product web site and service.... Thank you

put new one in

cap was replaced

I watched the Video that was supplyed with the e-mail and when the part got here I new just what to do and it took maybe 15 min at the most. You saved me over $100.00 from what we had to pay once before for the same problem to a repair man. And now I know where to buy my parts for all my appliances when they fail and with KitchenAid it seems to be quite often.

Old gasket was broken in places and old. Installing the new one was easy- no tools required. Just pull out the old one and press in the new one. Washer still leaks because door does not close all the way- need to figure out how to get it to shut tight. Maybe the latch is loose or worn.

I removed about 8 screws from the upper back of the door assemply to expose the control panel board. From there you could see the thermal overload (fuse. ) I followed the enclosed instructions and was done in about 20 minute. Turned the breaker back on and it immediately lit up and is operating.

The fault code suggests a problem with the washer's ability to maintain water temp. This could be caused by a failure of the tempurature sensor module, safety over-temp thermostat, or the heating element. First, I disconnected AC power at the Mains panel. I then verified that the heating element was indeed at fault by removing the dishwasher and disconnecting the leads to the heating element in the rear of the unit. I set a multi-meter to resistance and measured the element and found that it was electrically open, thus proving it was the part needing replacement. I then tested the replacement element and verified it showed low resistance. (Good). I then loosened the plastic retaining nuts with an adjustable wrench, removed the old element and replaced it with the new. The nuts were then re-installed and torqued with enough force to create a leak-tight seal as verified by pouring a gallon of water in the washer. I reconnected the leads and slid the dishwasher back into place and secured it to the counter with screws. I then turned power back on at the AC Mains panel.