79691022900 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Removed existing parts using screwdriver, positioned new parts in dryer and re-inserted screws, tightened - done. Piece of cake, even for someone who cannot saw a straight line with a chop saw.

Found disassembly video and watched several times. Suspected that one of the drum wheels had seized up. Found extreme volume of lint and hair inside unit as well as a dryer sheet melted on top of heating unit. Front left drum wheel was worn down from lint and hair jamming its movement. Video made it easy, not a really complicated piece of machinery. Replaced all 4 wheels due to normal wear on other three. Wanted to be sure drum evenly balanced on all 4. Parts came quickly and were easy to install. My sister and I did this together. Would not recommend doing it alone. Took time to vac and wipe down entire unit. Now it runs so quiet we have to look to see if it is operating. Got a brand new machine out of it, saved a couple of hundred dollars in repair bills, and found 11 cents inside the machine. For your own piece of mind, if you have had your dryer for several years, you need to open it up and clean it out. Its not hard... added note, we are both in our 60's... so if we can do it so can you.... Such a feeling of accomplishment, can't buy that in a store....

I bought the whole dryer filter kit, but turns out I only needed the dryer filter and am very happy about that. No tools necessary I just slid it right in. It fit perfectly and I no longer have anxiety about my clothes coming out ripped.

I watched a You Tube Video. It instructed me to take the top, front, and door off. Not necessary!!! But definitely unplug it as there is a moisture sensor attached inside this housing. Remove current Filter. Remove all screws holding the two key pieces in (Filter Cover and Guide). Disconnect the moisture sensor (mine is white wires connected to two metal prongs). Remove the Filter Cover and Filter Guide and discard. Get a long vaccum hose and remove all visible lint in the area below where the Filter Guide resides. Replace the Filter Guide and reconnect the moisture sensor, replace the Filter Cover. You may find it easier to snap these two pieces together before installing. Make sure the small plastic guides on the inside of the drum snap in tightly to the tei guide holes, then replace all screws. Note- Part Select does not send screws, so save your screws from the old parts and take note which are longer and go where. Tighten, but do not over tighten. If you were successful, the Filter Cover and Guide should be smooth with the edge of the drum and door. Install your new Filter, plug back in, and enjoy! I can FINALLY dry tank tops, open shoulder, and key hole tops, as well as sheets without my dryer eating them. Only problem is that I wish I had done it sooner. Note, I'm a female with no electrical or appliance repair experience. I did this on my lunch break and surprised my husband when he got home! Easy peasy!

I noticed the flame would start, then quit after about 15 seconds. I checked the flame detector, and found the lenze cracked. I replaced it, and it's as good as gold.

It looked like a hard job to take the drum out to get at the part. But the top was off with 3 screws, the front about 6 I think. Then the front frame, only 4 screws. I think setting the belt tentioner was the hardest thing to do.

Done in 45 minutes, both the job, then the next load of laundry.

Was initially going to order just the lint screen. Manufacturer notes said that there had been a redesign on that part so ordered all three pieces to ensure matching parts. On arrival it was just a matter of removing a few screws. Direct fit replacement!

Just unscrewed four screws. One piece stays behind which is a sensor then pull up on it, put it back in the same way, put the four screws back in and it was done.

Pulled out old lint trap and installed new one in its place

I followed a Repair Clinic Urube video except the video had a model with the controls in front and my dryer has the controls on a back panel. The difference was in how to get the top of the dryer off after removing all the screws. The video
said to push back on the top panel which did not work because of the back controls. Instead I had to push up on the front to release it and then push back. The rollers were also in a slightly different place but were easily found and replaced. The dryer is now back to normal.

The first thing I did was locate a copy of the Service Manual (not the User / Owner Manual). After looking at that and looking online I learned that there is no sensor for the Flow Sense feature itself. The Flow Sense doesn't detect a blockage. It detects excessive heat and the manufacturer has simply concluded that too much heat is most likely caused by a blocked duct and then it activates the Flow Sense safety feature: cutting off the heat source. Since I knew it was a heat problem I figured I'd get inside and check the two thermostats and the igniter. Igniter was fine, one thermostat was fine, the other one - the High Limit Thermostat - was giving inconsistent readings. I replaced it. Here's how: First I took the dryer apart. This is a little time consuming. There are a lot of parts that need to come out. I recommend that you put the screws in small baggies with a note as to where you took them out of so that you know where they go when you put it back together. You need to remove part of the back, the top and the front. I removed the electrical box because that is what is shown in the manual but I'm not convinced that I needed to. See if you can get the rest of the dryer apart without removing it but if you have to remove it it's not that big of a deal. It's a little tricky to detach the wire harnesses is all. And extra steps, of course. I did not remove the drum. Instead I just reached inside with the front off and pulled the wires off the thermostats to test them for resistance with a multimeter. It was kind of a pain and a little awkward but I did not want to mess with the drum tensioner. Once I figured out that the High Limit Thermostat was the likely culprit I removed it - which required a very short Phillips head screw driver and some patience since I could not actually see one of the screws. But all good. Just remember which wire goes on which terminal. Make a note for yourself: gray back / red front - something like that. Then I ordered the part and installed the new one and rebuilt the dryer in reverse from what I did.

Now, here's the thing: I actually did two things: aside from changing the thermostat I also thoroughly cleaned out the dryer. Somehow a lot of lint built up in there - no idea how since it all appeared to leave the dryer through the vent. but there must be some small gap somewhere. I cleaned everything including the flame detector. When I put it all back together it worked but I'm not 100% sure that the thermostat was bad. It's at least possible that all the lint and dirt was messing with the way the thermostats behaved. So what I would recommend, if you have this problem, is to clean it out first and then put it back together enough to run it and see of the heat comes on. It will take maybe 30-60 seconds for the heat to come on while the igniter lights. If not, go ahead and replace whichever thermostats or other parts you think are broken.

My only issue was that I paid almost $30 for overnight shipping , and Part Select only sent two of the three pieces overnight. I had to wait several more days for the final piece. When I asked that they refund the expedited shipping charge, I never got a response. Would probably go with another company next time.

I'm not for reading instructions. So I just dove right in and took the dryer apart to get down to the motor. I gave the dryer a thorough cleaning and replaced the 3 parts I ordered from the online recommendation. Wish I would have ordered 2 sensors and the 2 thermostats that are near the burner. Just so replace beings I was in there. Replacing the parts was easy, found them just by looking for matches to the new parts. Reassembled the dryer, dont think I put a single screw back where I got it lol. And still haven't put the top lid back on due to difficulty. Not sure if I even needed any parts, found a nest in my outside vent completely plugging it. But after a good cleaning and replacing the parts the dryer dries the best it has since we've owned it. The dryer came with our house which we bought 3 years ago and it was 2 years old when we purchased the house, so it is now 5 years old.

After replacing the locker assembly (female) on the machine, The door strike(male) was hitting well below the locker. I realized that the screws holding the door hinge were loose. Tightening them brought the strike up far enough to engage the locker, although it still hits a bit low. That might have been the real problem, not the latch, so check the hinge before you order the latch parts.

Handed the parts to my son-in-law he's very mechanically inclined had the job done in 20 minutes

Able to complete install but the lint housing does not allow the lint screen to slide down completely due to the housing lacking the appropriate cut outs/notches. The slit becomes too narrow for the lint screen so it protrudes from the sides. The delivered product does not match the image on the item description, which shows the proper cut outs/notches that should fully accommodate the lint screen.
I'm having a similar experience with this reviewer:

John S - February 14, 2022
Verified Purchase
Lint screen housing
The housing will not allow the lint screen to set completely down because the housing lacks the proper cut outs causing the lint screen to set 1-1.5 inches too high. I was able to cut out the required notches in the plastic so that the lint screen would fit. The picture shows the proper notches but the delivered product didn’t have the notches and does not match the picture.

Will return the item and keep searching for the correct lint housing.