The infinite burner switch controls the stove top eight-inch surface burner, which is the large surface element. If your surface element is not warming up, the element can be tested to determine wheth...
$43.86
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Terminal block kits are also known as terminal boards, or terminal strips, and they are found in a wide variety of household appliances. Most often in ranges, wall ovens, and dryers. This kit attaches...
$9.37
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This is a part for your range. This switch controls the stovetop surface burner. If you notice that your stove top is not turning on or is not adjusting to the corresponding desired heat, it is mostly...
$62.84
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This part is the heatsource. This surface element is for ranges.
Surface element supplies the heat to a cooking area on top of the range.
Unplug the range or shut off the house circuit breaker ...
$164.78
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This is a six-inch radiant element with limiter. It works in conjunction with your stove top range. The purpose of this part is to heat up the cooking area that is located on top of the range, also kn...
$161.67
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Dual Element with Limiter -9 Inch /6 Inch - 1300W 1200W.
With this element, you can adjust the size of the burner you want to use to match your pots/pans.
$175.53
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This switch controls the stove top surface burner. This surface element control switch is for ranges.
Surface element control switch turns the surface element on and off and controls how much heat...
$155.72
In Stock
Order within the next 6 hrs and your part ships today!
Order within the next 6 hrs and your part ships today!
Questions And Answers for 79097613410
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Lisa
November 2, 2023
Electrical surge likely fried control board. Clock flashes but no controls on panel work (double fast beep when pressed). Radiant burners work. Is it the control board that needs replacing.
For model number 79097613410
Hello Lisa, thank you for asking. We have concluded that the issue is with the electronic control board, part number PS10064607. We would recommend checking the electronic control board to fix the issue. We hope this helps!
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years
... Read more passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.
I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.
I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.
So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.
Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools neede
... Read mored are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.
First we removed two screws under the rim of the range top to open the lid. Lifted the lid and removed the screws from the bracket that holds the elements, Be careful with the clips that hold the element in, if you break them or bend them there aren't any more! Also note which holes they were in, they are marked according to the differ
... Read moreent sizes of elements. Disconnected the wires, needed needlenose pliers to grip them...connected new element, popped it back in place, replaced bracket, closed top ...Easy peasy!!!
