79049612317 Kenmore Microwave - Instructions

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

Repair was quite easy, as long as you have the instructions for removing the door. The screws that hold the bottom of the door to the fixed hinge are placed into the side of the hinge assembly after removal; this holds the door at a 45 degree angle for easy removal. After that, just place the door on a flat surface and dismantle the door from the inside. The inner glass is contained in a metal frame with another piece of glass; this frame comes apart easily using the clips in each side. The door assembles easily after the glass is replaced; just take your time and give yourself enough room to lay out the parts as you go. Good luck!

Removed the 3 screws to drop the lower panel and, removeed the turn table plate and ring. Then removed the 2 screws holding the motor, the 2 wires attached to the motor and removed the old motor.Replaced the new motor in the reverse order. DO NOT FORGET TO UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE FIRST.

Had to reference original owner's manual for instruction(s) on how to remove oven door. Used several "YouTube" videos to reference oven door design (Oven door glass is actually several layers of glass.) After completing about 30 mins of research and finding the right square drive bit, the repair went smoothly and without complications. The biggest challenge was researching and understanding what part(s) were needed and how to replace them. It seemed liked a lot of work doing the research however it sure beat a $350 repair bill. It cost me $90 and about 1 1/2 hours of total time. Oven works better than ever, thanks parts select for the part(s) and diagram(s) ...

Have a double wall oven and the top oven would not shut off or broiler part would stay on and burn tops of food. Since bottom oven was not having any issues felt like it could
Not be control panel so decided to try the temp sensor. Since replacing oven has worked properly.

first of all, ordered the right piece, second, brought the right handyman to help...getting the over/microwave out as one piece took some doing...then the cover of the microwave had to come off...once we got to the piece itself, it was no issue... then putting it all back together...took about two hours...he needed our assistance because of thew weight and the need to pull the units out simultaneously

As this microwave is part of a wall micro/oven combo, we removed the trim, slid out the microwave and tried for days to figure out how to release the microwave control panel. Through sheer force, we were able to release the lower half of the panel...enough to get our fingers, chopsticks and a flashlight inside to remove the broken lever. It took 2 of us to pull the panel out and replace the lever. I was hoping for a video online of how to remove that control panel but luckily we changed out the broken lever and it's back in working order! Glad we didn't have to trash and entire microwave/oven combo for one broken plastic part...it all works fine now.

Installation of the temparature sensor, one of the technician recommended parts took no time, just two screws and a snap off/snap on part. It did not fix the problem. I then replaced the main control panel, which requires more work, but didn't solce the ussue either. I then replaced the thermal fuse, which wasn't mentioned by tech support, and required much more disassebly of the top panels of the stove, with still no fix to the problem. I am waiting to replace the thermostat heat sensor unit, the only other part in the circuit controlling power supply, requiring removal of the stove top again,

Watched the repair video on your web site. Used the video as a step by step guide in the actual repair.

Remove microwave from wall, removed outer cover which allowed access behind the control panel, was then able to take out the broken lever and with a little maneuvering was able to replace it with the new one. The whole process took less than an hour and was easy to accomplish.

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Disconnected the power cord, removed the outer cover, shorted the two terminals of the high voltage capacitor with the blade of a screw driver with well insulated handle (very important to prevent a bad shock!!),;removed the plastic fan housing for access to the grounding screw and capacitor housing, installed the new capacitor with the reverse of the above steps (but don't reconnect the power cord yet!!}
Now, the most important step of all, reach inside the oven and remove the mica wave guide cover, clean the oven walls thoroughly and clean the inside of the wave guide with clean cloth and water, sand to bare metal any carburized spots on the exit of the wave guide, cut out any carburized spots on the mica cover, replace the clean cover , or order a new one if necessary. It is OK to use the microwave without the cover while waiting for shipment of the replacement mica cover, but be absolutely sure there will be no food spatters on or near the wave guide opening.

Plastic trim on inside of the door pops out if you pry with a flathead screwdriver. Then lift door latch out of place and carefully remove the spring. New latch goes back in the way the old one came out. Door trim pops back in.

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

Troubleshoot element by disconnecting the element leads from relay board and test for acceptable resistance across leads. In my case the element had tested open with no resistance.

******You may not need to remove oven depending on how the framing under the oven is constructed.

**** Before you begin, disconnect power from the oven.

1.Remove two screws under oven, directly below rear of element door, and remove the metal piece the screws held in place. This will free up the back of the element access door panel.
2.Remove front trim strip on front bottom of oven, this will expose two screws directly behind trim strip. Remove the two screws behind the trim strip. This will free up the front of the element access door.
3. Lower element access door. If you can open the element door enough to disconnect the element wire leads and get the element out, you can swap out the element now and will not need to pull your oven out of the wall. If you can't open the access panel to fully access and replace element, slide the oven out until you can get the access door open and prop the front of the oven up on something sturdy you have laying around. In my case it was the good old yeti cooler. I would seriously consider removing the oven doors before you slide the oven out. It will make the oven alot less tippy by removing the weight from the front off the appliance. The element wires are short, you may need to disconnect them to get the element access door all the way open.
4. Install the new element and reassemble using these instructions in reverse order.
5. Reconnect power.
6. Make a batch of cookies.