6AMTW5855TQ0 Maytag Washer - Instructions

I replaced lid switch. Take off two screws off the back of insterment panel. Unscrew switch and unplug. Then reverse. Easy!!

When I pulled the machine out, I noticed one of the suspension springs on the floor. I followed the video supplied by PartSelect.com and suggestions by other folks. I started with the spring that was missing, which was a mistake since I did not know that there are custom spring clips which hold the spring to the drum. Once I found the missing part the installation was very easy. I used the suggestion by another post, of wedging a block of wood between the back of the machine and drum, to relax the rear suspension spring, which eliminated having to remove the back of the machine or tipping the machine on the back to get at the screw. I will always look to PartSelect.com for any future appliance repairs. You are the greatest

It was easy with the video.I watched trouble shooting videos till i found the problem. wrote dwn the tools needed.watched video[lucky for me i would have forgot a step without it]orderd part, and was the hero

Unscrew the screws from the back of the control panel and lift the panel back. The lid switch is on the top left side of the washer. I unscrewed the ground wire, lift the lid switch out and replaced it. Then I reversed the whole process to put it all back. All being three srews and the lid switch. There was no need to remove anything else. It could not have been any easier.

So Easy! Just slid old one off and sled new one on. This is the rubber seal that you touch when you open the lid. I was afraid I would get the wrong part but am so glad others left notes so I could tell this was the right one. And it definitely is worth the replacement cost.

I simply watched the video that was on YouTube for this site. It was dead on with my washer and super easy to do. The step by step was just awesome and easy to follow. The repair took just over an hour and I even cleaned the entire inside of this 12 year old washer which was pretty cruddy. The washer now spins great and works like new again. All for about $50. Thanks.

A word to the wise watch the repair video first guys and save an hour or 2 of aggrivation. I saved a couple hundred bucks instead of having the repair guys do it. It was easier than I thought. Machine runs like new again. Thanks Partselect. L.A.B. Rocland, Mass.

the video pretty much told the whole story except I forgot to put the plastic collar piece on the new clutch when I put it back together so I got to do it twice. second time went even easier. Thanks for the video,it was great.

Very old washing machine began to make a horrible noise and agitator would attempt to agitate during spin cycle. Eventually determined that the problem was in the transmission. The way the transmission works is that when the motor runs in one direction a metal fork pushes on a cam mechanism and lifts a spring loaded gear on the agitator shaft from the gears that make it move, putting it in neutral so that it can spin freely with the basket in the spin cycle. When the motor runs the other way the same fork pulls on the cam and drops the gear down so that it engages with the agitator mechanism. The problem was that the plastic cam pieces on the base of the shaft had worn down to the point where they where not fully lifting the gear clear and it was partially engaging with the drive mechanism. Repair was relatively straight forward except the YouTube video that I was using showed the parts on upside down. All the other transmission parts are labeled with TOP on one side but oddly the cam pieces are not marked. For reference the U shaped protrusion on the cam parts goes on the top of the assembly, not the bottom. All in all it took me about 12 hours to do this fix, but at least 10 of that was simply trying to figure out how the mechanism worked and tracking down the problem. Be sure to refill the transmission case and use some RTV sealant to seal the cover back on when you are done, just like you would for an oil pan on an engine.

Found this web site after reading forums on slow spins and I determined it was a clutch problem. Ordered the clutch from "Part Select", watched the 19 minute video (excellent) on changing out a clutch from this website. After 1.5 day delivery, I installed per video. Very pleased, thank you; Dave

Replaced Cltch assembly. Hardest part was figuring out how to drop the motor. The clutch is located of the main shaft above the motor, under the drum. Three bolts hold the motor in from underneath, however there is a bolt at the top of the shaft in the agitator assembly. Note location of the snap ring on the shaft holding the clutch assembly, grooves in shaft. The only other issue that I had is the is a triangular metal peice that is not attached in anyway between the drum and framing. It had moved when I had the motor and had to be reset after I did my first test run of washer. Spins out great now!

First off, the replacement lid switch worked and repaired the washer. However, the replacement procedure was very difficult. I attempted to follow the directions off of the website, and then a video from YouTube. I was intstructed to remove two screws from the back of the control panel which in turn would flip up so I could get to the old lid switch and replace it. However, there were no screws on the back side of the control panel so I removed the back panel of the washer to get to the lid switch. That was a very time consuming and laborious procedure and because the back panel was installed under the molding of the control panel I had to bend the heck out of the back panel to remove it. The good news is that the replacement of the lid switch corrected the problem. The bad news was that it was the wrong procedure on getting to the part that needed replacement. I wish that I could have found the proper procedure form my particular model.

Almost identical to the instruction video that was sent. Very straight forward. I did not take apart the washer to identify the problem. I was short on time so I took a chance and ordered the highest probability cause of the symptoms indicated by your website. It was dead on; the problem is fixed. Parts were received ahead of schedule. Excellent all around.

After researching possible failure modes and reviewing a video for teardown/access from the control panel and access top down I noticed a lot of 'break dust' on top of the transmission. Shorting out the lid switch and putting my little finger on the drum, it would not spin but the clutch was spinning fine. I ordered a new clutch... Interesting thing when I was taking the clutch out... the gear it was attached to slid right off! After figuring out it was too big to go 'back' into the transmission and reviewing the parts explosion diagram... it BELONGED INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION! So I took the transmission cover off, poured out out the black-ish oil with metal filings in it, put the gear inside, filled it back up with 10W30, put the lid on, added the new clutch while it was apart and finished reassembly. Wow! It spins much better than when it was new. I guess never assume what can happen on an assembly line. Thanks for the great site.

It was actually much easier than I expected. The worst part was dealing with the gear oil as I drained it to clean out the plastic pieces that came off the gear. To see how to fix things like this, I went to Google, enter my model and what the problem was and watched a repairman do it. It seemed easy and it was.