665WH-CVW Admiral Range - Instructions

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

I removed two retainer screws which released the outside panel.
Next I removed 2 screws which hold the middle glass pane from one of its retainer brackets.
The was another panel with 4 screws to remove before reaching the final glass inner assembly.
Once that panel was reoved with the broken glass it was time to put the repacement glass assembly back together.

The old gasket fell apart as I replaced the oven light and had to be replaced. That was very easy once I received the part. The spring broke on the oven door and had to be replaced. I initially tried to reach in from inside the pan drawer under the oven. That was impossible to reaach but it only took a few minutes to realize that I had to remove the side panel. I had to slide the range out from between the cabinets, but once that was done it was a relatively easy fix, without any special tools needed.

I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.

Unplug Stove removed screws pulled out
element. Lifted off the wires with a pliers they slid
onto the element ends that were pointed up
was very easy.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Pulled the stove out, removed the sides and attatched the new springs( replaced both while the stove was out). Worked like new and put the stove back.

Removed 7 screws on sides and one on top of stove. Replaced both springs (only one was broken but did both). Took around 15 to 30 minutes from start to finish.Fastest shipping in history during holidays without paying anything extra.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Thought we was going to have to replace the range all together, due to most parts not being available for this model anymore. Since this is an expensive model, we did not look forward to having to replace it. So I thought just by chance I would check to see if anyone had parts to help in repairing it. Part Select did happen to have the Surface Plug-in block kit that was needed. After going at least a year with this problem, I am sooooo happy to say it is finally fixed and working great! Thanks much Parts Select.

remove plate, gasket, & light cover then light. .Replace light. Put gasket on plate , insert cover. TAPE PLATE TO COVER ,then screw all in place, remove tape.

The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.

replaced old, worn blocks with new style surface plug in block kits - all 4 burners. Completely resolved the problem at very low cost (less than $50.00).

Before I give procedure steps, please note the following observations that I had.
a)If AC power is plugged in and an electrical terminal touches the frame, the resulting arc may require that you reset the GFCI or the circuit breaker.
b)The clock failed to run until it was properly mounted (including the back cover in place).
c)Movement of wires can cause them to work loose at EITHER end of the wire.
d)Attempting to operate the clock, Start and Stop knobs may extremely difficult or otherwise ineffective unless it is properly mounted. Fully depressing these knobs / shafts is difficult.

The numbered steps below are how I would do it correctly based on what i learned.
1)I unplugged gas range power cord.
2)Re-positioned range to access the back without damaging the flexible gas supply line.
3)Removed the rear cover (#2 Philips) behind the timer.
4)Verified no voltages present
5)Judged that the front cover glass needed removal - removed timer knobs and front glass cover
6)Removed existing clock timer by using a WIDE flat blade screwdriver to depress the rear of each clip and pushing the time our the front. Old part has damaged gears and one axle end out of position.
7)Fed old timer back through the opening to the rear to assist with transfer of wires.
8)With the assistance of a helper, transferred the wires one at a time from the old to the new timer.
9)Fed new timer back through the opening to the front; aligned and snapped into place.
10)Replaced front glass and knobs.
11)Plugged in AC cord (first did inspection for snug connections and potential shorts).
12)Tested buzzer feature of the timer. Unexpected that the buzzer was intermittent.
13)Unplugged power cord. Found & tightened loose connection - not at timer but other end of one of the timer wires at the chassis connection strip.
14)Reinstalled the metal back cover & plugged in the AC cord.
15)Set the timer start and stop times to one hour before present time. (Knobs need to be depressed.)
16)Set clock to present time by depressing the knob IN and rotating it clockwise to the correct time. As clock is manually advanced to the timer start and stop times, verified that each knob popped out. The hand on the clock for the timer moves also, but when you release the knob pressure, the knob pops out and then you set the timer past the buzzing to zero.
18)I put the oven through a self-cleaning cycle. This uses the new timer; starts when the START button pups out and stops when the STOP button pops out. Of course there are other controls you need to manipulate for the self-cleaning cycle i.e. CLEAN settings and the door lock.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.