665WH-CV Admiral Range - Instructions

First I removed the old bowls and replaced them with the new.

took old bowls out, put new bowls in, took a coffee break

Replaced old drip pans with new ones - very easy - even a 68 yr old lady can do it!!

we removed the old pans after first removing the electric heating element and simply inserted tne new pans

Removed and replaced above named parts, rewired.Be sure to tighten all nuts that secure wires. I believe this is what caused the problem.

I removed two retainer screws which released the outside panel.
Next I removed 2 screws which hold the middle glass pane from one of its retainer brackets.
The was another panel with 4 screws to remove before reaching the final glass inner assembly.
Once that panel was reoved with the broken glass it was time to put the repacement glass assembly back together.

The old gasket fell apart as I replaced the oven light and had to be replaced. That was very easy once I received the part. The spring broke on the oven door and had to be replaced. I initially tried to reach in from inside the pan drawer under the oven. That was impossible to reaach but it only took a few minutes to realize that I had to remove the side panel. I had to slide the range out from between the cabinets, but once that was done it was a relatively easy fix, without any special tools needed.

I unplugged the stove from the outlet, then removed the two burners I was going to be working on and the drip pans. Then I raised the top part of the stove and removed the screws holding the plug-in blocks to the stove. Then I cut the two wires going to the old plug-in block and stripped the wires back to match the new wire parts. Then I placed the sleeves over the new wires, then I placed the new wire beside the wire I stripped on the stove and screw on the wire cap making sure it was tight. I repeated this three more times, once I had all four wires connected I then placed the sleeves over the connections and heated them up until they were formed around the connection. Once I had all the connections done I placed one wire at a time into the plug-in block until it locked into place ( I looked at my old plug-in blocks first to make sure I placed the new wires in the correct way ).I then used the metal mounting bracket that matched my old ones and snapped the correct one onto each plug-in block. Before mounting them onto the stove I compared them to my old ones to make sure they were correct. Then I used the new screws to mount them to the stove. I took a second look at everything I had done before closing the top cover of my stove. After lowering the cover back into place I put both the drip covers in place and then installed the burners.I then plugged the stove back into the outlet and tried the burners. This was very simple and the video on the web site shows this very well which made my job very simple.

Unplug Stove removed screws pulled out
element. Lifted off the wires with a pliers they slid
onto the element ends that were pointed up
was very easy.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Pulled the stove out, removed the sides and attatched the new springs( replaced both while the stove was out). Worked like new and put the stove back.

Removed 7 screws on sides and one on top of stove. Replaced both springs (only one was broken but did both). Took around 15 to 30 minutes from start to finish.Fastest shipping in history during holidays without paying anything extra.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

replaced drip pans with correct type

The first thing I did was to turn the power off to the stove by turning the Stove circuit breaker off at the Main breaker panel. I next removed the 4 burners by pulling them out of their plug-in blocks. I then removed the four screws that held the top of the stove to the body so I could access the bad plug-in block, the screws were located under each of the burners drip pans. I next removed the screw holding the bad block. I lifted up the top of the stove so as to relocate the bad block, with wires connected, through the opening of the back burner. The bad block was located in the front rt part of the stove and by rerouting this to the back I could lay the top down and have easy access to what I needed to replace. I next used the knife to make a cut down the length of the old shrink tubing so as to gain access to the old splice. I next removed the old wire nuts which allowed the removal of the bad block. I then install the new clips into the new block. I installed one each shrink tubing onto each of the pigtails from the new clips and twisted the one new wire to the stove wiring harnes were the old wire was connected . I connected the seconded wire in the same manner. I pulled on each wire to verify that they were tightly secured together. I then positioned each shrink tubing over each wire nut (you have to fold the wire nut and wires down against the wire so as the shrink tubing will slip over the wire nut) and used a heating tool (hair dryer on high) to shrink the tubing around the wire nutted connection. I next installed the metal clip that would hold the block to the stove top. I placed the new block back to the location where the old block came from and secured it with the new screw provided by the kit. I re-installed the four screws to hold the top down, plugged in the four burners, turned the power on at the breaker box and turned the burner on to test that it work.