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66575775890 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for 66575775890 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 66575775890
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F3 Error message

  • Customer: Charles from Brecksville OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 75 of 96 people found this instruction helpful
Two screws remove the front of the sensor (put a pan under the sensor to catch the screws), One nut removes the rear cover to access the rear of the sensor. Separating the two halves of wiring harness takes a little dexterity. BIG TIP! Tie a string to the back of the sensor wire and pull the sensor out from the front making sure the string still shows thru the back. If you don't you have a 15 minute job trying to fish the wires at an angle thru the insulation (a very frustrating task). Untie the string from the old and tie it securely to the new. Pull the string from the back and Voila! your new sensor can be plugged in or wirer nutted to the old connection on the back of the stove. Replace the nut and the two screws and you're done!

Front burner would not light. The igniter was cracked and the spark would not jump to the burner head.

  • Customer: Marilyn from Antioch IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 29 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled the range from the wall and disconnected the power cord. I removed the grates, burner caps and the burners from the cooktop. Using a plastic putty knife, on either side of the range in the front I pushed the retaining clips to allow the cooktop to be raised. I used a short board to keep the cooktop open. I cut the wire leading to the broken igniter and removed the old igniter. I put the new ignitor in the mounting hole. The igniter wire connects to the spark module which is in the back of the range. To access the module I removed three top screws on the backplate(you have to get behind the range) and removed the top access panel. I used the old wire to pull the new wire through to the module. I disconnected the old wire from the module and connected the new one.

Reassembly was easy. I replaced the backplate and screws, lowered the cooktop, replaced the burners, caps and grates. I plugged the power cord back in and slid the range back.

surface burner igniter insulation broken, in-op

  • Customer: David from Reedley CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 25 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
Broken ignitor wire had been previously removed to determine part number. Exact length was not availible (37"), but similiar unit (36") (one inch shorter) worked with zero problems. To re-install replacement wire/ignitor, I removed all four grates, and surface burners (allows top surface to pivot upwards.) Raised front of stove top surface by pushing in side, hold-down clips, using butter knife. Propped up surface with board. Insert clip end of igniter lead through hole in top surface and led wire back and towards passage to rear plug-in terminal location. Removed upper, rear sheet metal cover plate (must pull entire range away from wall.) Fed thin/ some-what-stiff safety wire down through plastic protection sleeve (all four ignitor wires go through the sleeve.) Wrapped wire around clip on end of igniter lead, pulled igniter wire up through plastic protector sleeve, disconnected pull through wire, and pushed connector clip on ignitor wire into ignitor terminal block. The rest was nothing more than screwing things back together in reverse order.

The (relatively new) gas oven would not light...oddly enough after a power outage. The recommended typical troubleshooting experience was that if the oven will not light: replace the igniter, even if it appears to be working fine.

  • Customer: Robert from Sun City CA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 20 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
I had already removed the 2 plates in the bottom of the oven to take an initial look. After not finding anything obvious, and searching on line for advice, I ordered the igniter. After the igniter arrived it was a matter of removing 2 screws, pulling out the lower drawer to gain access to the igniter disconnect, and done.

thanks for getting the correct part to me so quickly. Also the diagram and part number search was right on the money!

Socket Light had a bad thread

  • Customer: Edmund from Emporium PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 17 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

E1 F5 Error on display

  • Customer: Gregory from Thornton CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 18 of 25 people found this instruction helpful
After reading many forums found that this error happens when trying to clean the oven and there is a failure in the latch motor to lock the oven door. It was suggested 1st to just tunr the breaker off to the over wait and then turn it back on to see if the error would clear by itself. If not then you'll have to do what I did and buy a new Latch Motor and replace it. Fairly easy to do:
) Move oven to get to the back panel
) Disconnect oven from power
) Remove the 8 screws to get the back panel off
) REmove the Latch motor screws (2) and remove the motor after twisting to get the latch rod off
) Put in new latch motor by 1st putting the latch rod in the motor assembly
) Screw the new motor in place
) Replace back panel
) Power on Oven
DONE!

mice had made nests in the insulation wrap in the range

  • Customer: Wendy from Red Hook NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 14 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

Scratches in Surface

  • Customer: Michelle from Richardson TX
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 10 of 12 people found this instruction helpful
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

drawer broke and annoying my wife

  • Customer: John from Jamestown OH
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 9 of 10 people found this instruction helpful
screwed in the new glide by taking out old broken one and screwing in new one. wife happy now.

Had to replace ignitor

  • Customer: Ron from Marthasville MO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.
Replacing it was just as simple,only in reverse.
The only tip I have that I should mention,is to UNPLUG the appliance first,as 110volts tingle your fingers!

Gas Oven, started to Preheat then quit. Then would not even light

  • Customer: John from West Grove PA
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 8 of 8 people found this instruction helpful
It is very simple to do. We called a repair man we normally use, but he does not do gas appliances. So started to research. I removed the bottom drawer, looked at the connection on the wires hanging down. Opened the oven removed the racks. On the bottom plate, loosened two screws and slid the bottom toward the front and removed it. Then removed two philips screws and removed the heat deflection plate, it slides forward and pulled up from the back. Then there it was- the igniter. I looked at it then looked at the connection behind the drawer. Went to PartSelect.com, found the part using the model number and used the parts diagram found the igniter and the picture matched what I had. I ordered the part, placed all parts back in place until part arrived. After part arrived, shut off breaker to oven removed all parts again disconnected the wire connection behind the drawer. Then on the side of the igniter, I used a nut driver, removed two bolts and took out the igniter. Matched it to the new one, including the power connection. Placed new one in and reversed the order. Turned on breaker, Pre Heated oven, been in service since. Ordered part before 3 on Wed, received early on Friday. Stopped home during lunch Friday and put it in place. 15 minutes and DONE Oven worked and fresh baked cookies when I got home! Thanks PartSelect.com!

trim broke while cleaning door handle

  • Customer: Diann from Mesa AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 14 people found this instruction helpful
well had I known that the trim did not go over the glass, the project would have been easy, but I thought the trim held the glass in, but that was not the case. After much juggling discovered that the trim went under the glass, and at that point the instilation was very easy.

lower part of trim was badly rusted

  • Customer: Matthew from Marlborough MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the trim by unscrewing 5 screws being careful not to drop glass panel. Had to scrape and paint over rust stains on the glass panel. After paint dried reinstalled with new trim (remodeled part only required 3 screws). Just a little tricky getting screws started while holding up the glass panel.

oven bottom had rusted out

  • Customer: Scott from Pine Plains NY
  • Difficulty: Really easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful
Found that the two screws securing the bottom had rusted away allowing me to just lift the old bottom out. The new one fit in place exactly and really did not need the screws. Done in 2 minutes.

The side trim was broken when I cleaned the door.

  • Customer: Ann from Whitewater WI
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 8 of 13 people found this instruction helpful
The repair was easy. I had to remove the trim on the other side and the bottom. You slide the new trim on and screw in the bottom two screws.
All Instructions for the 66575775890
1-15 of 90