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Models > 66575775890 > Instructions

66575775890 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All installation instructions for 66575775890 parts

These instructions have been submitted by other PartSelect customers and can help guide you through the range repair with useful information like difficulty of repair, length of repair, tools needed, and more.

All Instructions for the 66575775890
1-15 of 97
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F3 Error message

  • Customer: Charles from Brecksville, OH
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 126 of 163 people found this instruction helpful
Two screws remove the front of the sensor (put a pan under the sensor to catch the screws), One nut removes the rear cover to access the rear of the sensor. Separating the two halves of wiring harness takes a little dexterity. BIG TIP! Tie a string to the back of the sensor wire and pull the sensor out from the front making sure the string still shows thru the back. If you don't you have a 15 minute job trying to fish the wires at an angle thru the insulation (a very frustrating task). Untie the string from the old and tie it securely to the new. Pull the string from the back and Voila! your new sensor can be plugged in or wirer nutted to the old connection on the back of the stove. Replace the nut and the two screws and you're done!

Front burner would not light. The igniter was cracked and the spark would not jump to the burner head.

  • Customer: Marilyn from Antioch, IL
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 42 of 42 people found this instruction helpful
I pulled the range from the wall and disconnected the power cord. I removed the grates, burner caps and the burners from the cooktop. Using a plastic putty knife, on either side of the range in the front I pushed the retaining clips to allow the cooktop to be raised. I used a short board to keep the cooktop open. I cut the wire leading to the broken igniter and removed the old igniter. I put the new ignitor in the mounting hole. The igniter wire connects to the spark module which is in the back of the range. To access the module I removed three top screws on the backplate(you have to get behind the range) and removed the top access panel. I used the old wire to pull the new wire through to the module. I disconnected the old wire from the module and connected the new one.

Reassembly was easy. I replaced the backplate and screws, lowered the cooktop, replaced the burners, caps and grates. I plugged the power cord back in and slid the range back.

surface burner igniter insulation broken, in-op

  • Customer: David from Reedley, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 32 of 37 people found this instruction helpful
Broken ignitor wire had been previously removed to determine part number. Exact length was not availible (37"), but similiar unit (36") (one inch shorter) worked with zero problems. To re-install replacement wire/ignitor, I removed all four grates, and surface burners (allows top surface to pivot upwards.) Raised front of stove top surface by pushing in side, hold-down clips, using butter knife. Propped up surface with board. Insert clip end of igniter lead through hole in top surface and led wire back and towards passage to rear plug-in terminal location. Removed upper, rear sheet metal cover plate (must pull entire range away from wall.) Fed thin/ some-what-stiff safety wire down through plastic protection sleeve (all four ignitor wires go through the sleeve.) Wrapped wire around clip on end of igniter lead, pulled igniter wire up through plastic protector sleeve, disconnected pull through wire, and pushed connector clip on ignitor wire into ignitor terminal block. The rest was nothing more than screwing things back together in reverse order.

E1 F5 Error on display

  • Customer: Gregory from Thornton, CO
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 32 of 39 people found this instruction helpful
After reading many forums found that this error happens when trying to clean the oven and there is a failure in the latch motor to lock the oven door. It was suggested 1st to just tunr the breaker off to the over wait and then turn it back on to see if the error would clear by itself. If not then you'll have to do what I did and buy a new Latch Motor and replace it. Fairly easy to do:
) Move oven to get to the back panel
) Disconnect oven from power
) Remove the 8 screws to get the back panel off
) REmove the Latch motor screws (2) and remove the motor after twisting to get the latch rod off
) Put in new latch motor by 1st putting the latch rod in the motor assembly
) Screw the new motor in place
) Replace back panel
) Power on Oven
DONE!

The (relatively new) gas oven would not light...oddly enough after a power outage. The recommended typical troubleshooting experience was that if the oven will not light: replace the igniter, even if it appears to be working fine.

  • Customer: Robert from Sun City, CA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Wrench set
  • 26 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
I had already removed the 2 plates in the bottom of the oven to take an initial look. After not finding anything obvious, and searching on line for advice, I ordered the igniter. After the igniter arrived it was a matter of removing 2 screws, pulling out the lower drawer to gain access to the igniter disconnect, and done.

thanks for getting the correct part to me so quickly. Also the diagram and part number search was right on the money!

mice had made nests in the insulation wrap in the range

  • Customer: Wendy from Red Hook, NY
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: More than 2 hours
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 26 of 28 people found this instruction helpful
I numbered every part. ex: 1 L., for first part removed left side. I used a magic marker to circle the holes and wrote the number of screws used on the part, set the srews in a separete place, so that I new where these screws went to. The cleanup was pretty time consuming, but I was able to keep my stove, when every repairman I called to fix my stove told me I was better off buying a new stove. ($600.00 stove 2 years old)Please Note: The insulation blanket needed for the entire stove is two pieces, the sides and top are one part # and the bottom and back, are another part #. I did not know this. I just purchased the top and sides. I got lucky, the back and bottom were still in good shape. So I guess I should have read the description of the part more carefully to see what it covers, before I ordered it. It took two people two hours to do the work, it was really nice to have an extra set of eyes, to remember what direction pieces of metal from the stove went. I would do it all over in a heart beat instead of buying a new stove.

Socket Light had a bad thread

  • Customer: Edmund from Emporium, PA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Pliers, Screw drivers
  • 30 of 41 people found this instruction helpful
Socket Lite come with clips attached to the outside
of the housing. After you unhook the 3 lead wires
that are attached to the unit. All you have to do is push in on the clips and release the unit. Then you
snap in the new unit. Attach the 3 wire leads, put a
oven bulb in the socket end, and the install the light cover

trim broke while cleaning door handle

  • Customer: Diann from Mesa, AZ
  • Difficulty: A Bit Difficult
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 26 of 32 people found this instruction helpful
well had I known that the trim did not go over the glass, the project would have been easy, but I thought the trim held the glass in, but that was not the case. After much juggling discovered that the trim went under the glass, and at that point the instilation was very easy.

drawer broke and annoying my wife

  • Customer: John from Jamestown, OH
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 20 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
screwed in the new glide by taking out old broken one and screwing in new one. wife happy now.

Inside brass liner in socket came out when bulb was removed. Apparently had welded itself to the base of the bulb

  • Customer: Lewis from Chapin, SC
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Nutdriver, Screw drivers
  • 19 of 22 people found this instruction helpful
Removed oven from wall unit and took the back off. Removed the old socket assembly by depressing the ears and forcing unit into the oven. The electrical wires were easily removed since they are spade connections and slip off. They also are different sizes so that there is no chance of erroneously putting them back in an incorrect order. The new unit simply slips in from the front and snaps into place. The most difficult part of the entire process is removing the old unit. A little "friendly persuasion" is required to get the old unit out.

Scratches in Surface

  • Customer: Michelle from Richardson, TX
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: Less than 15 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 20 of 29 people found this instruction helpful
This product comes in a bottle with a brush like Liquid Paper. It goes on incredibly easy. A second coat might be needed. I wanted to prevent rust from setting in so I covered the scratches and dings. The paint is a little brighter since my washer is 10 years old but it still looks great.

Oven light not working

  • Customer: Carol from Allison Park, PA
  • Difficulty: Really Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required:
  • 17 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

Both hinges were bent, probably from dropping the door, or leaning on it when it was in the down position.

  • Customer: Earle from Taylorsville, UT
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 20 people found this instruction helpful
1st; I opened the door, 2nd; removed the keepers that prevent the door from coming unhinged. 3rd; placed 2 short screws in the holes in the hinges. 4th; raised the door until it stopped. 5th; lifted the door upward and slid the hinges out of the slots in the range. 6th; laid the door face up on a microwave stand. With a handle on the outside, and hinges sticking out of the inside, it was inpossible to lay the door flat on a larger surface, and get around it. 7th; removed 2 screws from the inside top, and the 8 screws from the very bottom. 8th; removed the bottom rail, and the handle assembly. From there everything was stacked pieces. Picked the glass front up, and carefully set it safely aside. Picked each piece up and cleaned it, and started the re-assembly. The hardest part of the process was getting the fiberglass rope around the inside glass, to stay in place during the initial re-assembly. From there, the assembly was just the reverse order. the process was about 1 hour and 20 minutes, due to lack instructions and practice, plus cleaning, finding screws, and tools, Instructions may have been on line, but I didn't find them. The new hinges came with pins in place, and should have come with an extra set to lock the old hinges.

Didnt keep Left/Right trim in their box - parts had no ID on them.

  • Customer: Michael from Valencia, CA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 15 - 30 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 16 of 23 people found this instruction helpful
PS733869 Door Trim Kit - Since I was replacing broken and discarded trim parts and had taken the replacements out of their identifying boxes I had some unneccessary difficulty since the parts are not marked. Point to reference is that the 9/16 side of the trim goes on the OUTSIDE EDGE of the door and the glass and handle are attached AFTER the trim is installed. Glass goes OVER the trim and not held in by it, the handle and the lower bracket does that.

lower part of trim was badly rusted

  • Customer: Matthew from Marlborough, MA
  • Difficulty: Easy
  • Time to Complete: 30 - 60 mins
  • Tools Required: Screw drivers
  • 15 of 21 people found this instruction helpful
Removed the trim by unscrewing 5 screws being careful not to drop glass panel. Had to scrape and paint over rust stains on the glass panel. After paint dried reinstalled with new trim (remodeled part only required 3 screws). Just a little tricky getting screws started while holding up the glass panel.
All Instructions for the 66575775890
1-15 of 97