654WD-HVW Admiral Range - Instructions

10 Minutes for a stove my landlord thought was not fixable (repairman had already cut the wires to the element and capped them)! The delivery person handed me the package, I got out the single tool needed, installed the part, put away the tool, cleaned my hands, and put a pot of water on the stove to boil for pasta. 10 minutes!

Well, I had to search a bit deeper in the internet to find out that the problem was not with the surface burner (which did look a bit burned out anyway) but rather with the surface burner switch (Part Number: PS336885) which must have ben damaged by the heat of the closest burner. If this problem would have been better documented (or if I would have searched more carefully) I would have saved over $40 with parts (Surface Burner Receptacle Kit) that I didn't quite need. Repairing the switch was very easy, thanks also to the available video , even though the stove used on this video (front panel) didn't quite match mine (top-back panel).

Starting by me making a substitute prong to keep the stove working while the part this coming by mail. was a piece of cake.

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Unplug stove from outlet!! Removed screws (Phillips head) from prior element and pulled out enough to slip of the red and white wires. Keep in mind which side which is on and take old element out of oven. Put new element in and attach wires back on the same sides. Push back in and use screwdriver (Phillips head) to lift insulation to push wires and element prongs back. Put screws back in, close oven door and plug stove back in. Tested and works great!

The repair itself is really quite easy. Cut the wires, strip the ends and attach the new receptacle with wire nuts. The hard part was getting to it. My cooktop is about 30 years old, so I had to wade through piles of nasty built up grease. Some of the sheet metal screws were unworkable, so I had to cut them off with a Dremel tool. Not a pretty picture, but that's how repair work is on old stuff.

The video on your website showed me how to take out 1 screw, cut the existing wires and strip the ends. The kit came with 2 porcelan wire nuts to re-connect the wires and it was done. Less than 10 minutes. It saved me $100.00 to get it repaired.I bought 2 in case I need another one in the future.They only cost $11.00 each. Awesome website.

took old screw out of stove top that held them in and cut the two wires off close to the burner stripped the wires and used the screw caps to put each line together it doesn't matter which line goes where and screwed it back on with the old screw and tried the two burners and they both worked job done ps it took longer for me to type this but i am slow at typing

Range is a 1967 model Maytag. First I removed drawer under oven, unplugged the range and pulled it out from the wall. Removed oven door by positioning it in the partly-open detent position, then pulled up to remove the door. Next I removed 7 screws per side panel: 3 in front and 3 in back, and one on top under cooktop, which retains the cooktop hold-down clip. With side panels removed, I noted the oven door spring position on the intact left side, then replaced the right-side spring first using the same spring adjustment positions. As I replaced the spring, I applied lithium grease to the spring hook pivot points as well as the spring coils where they rub against the interior wall. I repeated the process on the left side. I reassembled the side panels, oiled the door hinges and reinstalled the oven door. Reinstalled range and bottom drawer. The oven door operates like new, and the new springs are totally quiet — good for another 47 years!

used drill to remove old screw

I was unable to remove the screw which held the electrical element.. so I took the new surface burner receptacle and removed the metal part, and used the old one and put in the new one in the old metal part and rewired, and it is like new.. now I need to do another one.

Pulled the range away from the wall and took out all the screws of the back panel. I had two different screws. Removed the dial and took two screws out behind the dial. Carefully removed the wires and placed them on the new switch. Screwed switch to panel, replaced dial and put the back panel back on range. Pushed range back into place.

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

I UNPLUGGED STOVE, removed panel covering the controls, removed the knob on front and the two screws there that hold the control in, inserted new control and replaced the two screws on the front that hold it onto the stove, used needle nosed pliers to unplug one connection at a time from the old control and onto the new control in the back. When I had all connections plugged onto the new control I re-installed the panel cover with a screwdriver, plugged the stove back in, and the burner is now working good as new!

New receptacle element. I am a girl and I did it.!!!!