62946779790 Kenmore Range - Instructions

1. Turned off power to trouble shoot the counter top range elements. 2. Raised the counter top up to work on it and slid two evenly placed wooden slats under the bottom of the housfor stability so it would not fall backdown into the counter top cut-out. 3. With a 1/4" nut driver removed the 10 hex-head screw that were holding the black glass top in place, pulled off the 4 . Control knobs and carefully removed the glass cover and carefully seet it aside in a safe place. 5. A visual inspection of the non working element showed that it had a burn out spot causing it not to heat. 6. Got the model number of the appliance and checked the internet for parts suppliers, chose parts elect because they had the part in stock and could overnight it for reinstallation the next day, part did arrive the next morning. A visual inspection show that it was the correct part and it would be a like for like swap out. 7. Prior to replacing the element check to see that the electrical power was still off at the circuit breaker, made a quick sketch of the wiring and identified the wires so that they would be reterminated at the same points. 8. Using the needle nose pliers pulled off the 4 stake on terminations. 9. Lifted out the 6" from the body of the unit , removed the 4 phillips screws holding parts what were to be transfered onto the new element. 10. Transfered parts onto the new element, reinstalled the element into the body of the unit, reinstalled the 4-stake-on wires to there appropriate terminals and verified with previous wiring sketch. 11. Reinstalled the glass top, 10 screw holding it in place and the 4-control knobs. 12 . Turned main power to the unit back on and turned on the replaced element, it work correctly, also checked the other 3 elements to make sure that they were working correctly. 13. When the unit had cooled, removed the wooden slats and lowered the counter top back into its cut-out making sure not to damage the glasstop. Job complete.

Simple. Just take off Ceran cook top, I used my iPhone to take a picture of the electronic relay board I was replacing just in case I need a reference picture. With circuit breaker turned off, I removed one connection at a time from the old board and plugged into new board (a total of 7 connections), popped the old board out, popped the new board in, no screw driver needed for this part--just for replacing the ground wire on the Ceran cook top. Reassembled top and flipped the breaker. Works like new!!

I ordered the part one afternoon. It arrived before noon the next day. Then I simply removed the old seal (with about 2 dozen spring clips). Inserted the new part by carefully inserting the new seal into its corresponding hole at each end and then worked my way around the seal while inserting each attached spring clip into its corresponding hole.

Pulled the oven away from the wall. Removed two screws inside the oven. Pulled old heating element out. When I did I heard a loud pop and and saw smoke. I assumed the element would not be electrically live if the oven was not on. That was obviously incorrect. I pulled the plug and then completed the installation. I went to chruch on Sunday and thanked God that I was not electrocuted. Now the oven works fine. My wife wanted the oven to die so that she could get a new alppliance, Instead I am alive.

Seriously your service was great. Your web site pointed me to the correct part, and it arrived the next day! I would definitely use your service again if I remember your name.

As I pulled the drawer looking for a pan stored in bottom drawer the drawer glide broke. The pictures of the parts were fantastic. Not being sure of which of two parts from the photos, I ordered two parts knowing that hopefully one would be the correct one and the other would not be the part I needed. Parts arrived and it was clear which of the two parts would fit perfectly.

I screwed in the part, and that was it , and I was relieved that the problem was solved! I kind of feel lucky that your company is in business! The other part is fully accepted and plan to send it back in for a refund. And oh yes, I solved my appliance problem under $20.00 - unbelieveable these days!

Thank you again for beng there!

1st removed the sealed burners
2nd removed stove top
3rd removed oven door
4th removed left and right side pannels to access door hinges
5th removed left and right hinges
6th installed new left and right hinges
then re-installed other components in reverse order.
The oven door now opens and closes properly, the heat stays in the oven!!

Using the description on the first DIY, I did as told. All went well until the part about removing the panel to access the hinge. There isn't a "panel" on the side of this particular model of Magic Chef stove. You have to remove the entire side of the stove, and then, there's another panel inside of this one. That too has to come off. Once off, you're into the insulation surrounding the oven. Ain't pretty, I'll assure you. Then, the replacement hinge has holes in it for the mounting screws. The holes aren't threaded, and you have to replace the screws that come with the hinge with self-tapping screws. Either that, or thread the holes with a tap. Thank goodness my wife loves the stove, or it may have just gone out the door. This is not one of Magic Chefs better ideas. Either that, or they didn't plan on having to replace the hinge before the stove wore out.

Display goes blank, had to press hard to get back, other times oven would shut off display flash. again pressing display cleared problem. Replaced display, problem came back but not as bad and only had to press lightly to get back. I then replace relay board & sensor. No more problems. Again, turn pwr off, remove burners & reflectors, mark burner receptacles as to FR-RR-LF-LR, Philips screw driver remove these, pop top, lay wiring forward, remove 4 Philip screws holding cover, angle one side down and pull up other side. should be enough wire to pull from relay board and place on new one, then use needle nose or regular pliers to pinch stand offs so board comes up. Remove two plastic legs, (might be brittle) put on new board, press board down on stand offs. Sensor is obvious. Replace covers, and other items and your done. Nothing really to hard.

First I swiched off the circuit breaker just to be safe.Then I removed the two mounting screws and disconnected the the element leads. Very easy task, approx 5 mins. THANKS

Turn off breaker.
Remove knob, pulls off. Pulled stove away from wall.
Removed front panel with switches attached.
There are screws in front and back.
Removed screws that hold switch in place.
Transferred wires one at at time to get proper location.
Reverse process for reassembly
Gary in Ohio

First thing- I cut off power to the range. I then removed two screws to allow the cook top to be lifted. I marked the wiring and replaced the burner. Reapplied power and started cooking!

First-my daughter needed her pizza and I didn't want to even think about the cost of a new range. So she did some research online about replacement parts. Lo an behold, Partselect.com was our answer.

We received the part in a few days and replaced it with just unscrewing a few screws.. AFTER we unplugged the range. We also used a tool that I would describe as a nail remover/lifter to get the end off of the wire connection. Needless to say, we were rookies and had no experience with this type of repair and were so proud that we were able to spend less than $30.00 to fix our oven.
Thanks to Partselect.com for making it easy to do this repair on our own.

I removed door by opening it to first stop and lifted it up off the hinge's. I removed all screws that held the inner panel to the outer panel and handle. Removed inner panel from outer panel, then glass and insulation, replaced glass and insulation and panel.

Replaced screws and handle,pulled hinge's out to first stop and slid door down on hinge's. This took about 20min. to do, most anybody handy with a screwdriver can do it.

PS: shipping was fast and price was great.
Thanks Bob G.

First I shut off the power at the circuit breaker.Then I removed the racks to make room to work.I then removed the 2 screws holding the element in place and pulled both sides out approx.3 inches.After carefully disconnecting the wires,I put the new element in to place and repeated the steps backwards.

I screwed the light lens into the socket and went beautifully. Better than the original. (I am a retired, 75 yr. old woman).