First I opened the door all the way. Second I reached down to the bottom gasket then grabed it on the right end of the seal that is on the right side of the door. Then I pulled the end outward from the bottom of the door toward the heater coil in the bottom of the washer. It came out real easy. You see it just snaps into a little plastic groove under the door. I then cleaned up the area for food and soap particules. I then placed the new gasket in place by lining up the notch toward the right end with the piece of plastic that encloses the right end of the plastic notch on the bottom right end of the door. Then push it in untill it stops going into the notch. It snaps in but does not make a snaping sound. It just won't go in no more.
I have had to keep replacing the spray arm on the bottom of my dishwasher which takes like 2 seconds to do.. First you open the dishwasher and than pull the bottom basked forward and reach down and pull the spray arm up and pop the bottom of the spray arm off and put it on the new spray arm and slip it back into the dishwasher over the thing that makes it spin around.. but the tricky part is and I didn't know this and this is why my dishwasher spray arm kept falling over and melting on the heating element.. you have to turn it till it clicks in.. and your done..
I removed old tub gasket, which the door presses against to make a seal, and put the new one in. Flat tip screwdriver was used to gently press gasket in.
It was amazing, the items were shipped within days of placing the order. They arrived ready for installation. My husband had the new racks in place in 10 minutes. He removed the wheels from the old racks and placed the wheel on the new racks which required no tools. Then we slid the new racks into place, a perfect fit!
Received the part 3 working days after order. Part was exactly like the original. Removed the door. Slipped off old gasket and replaced with new gasket. Replaced door and tried rinse cycle. Worked perfectly.
With the door wide open and lower dishtray out, I pulled the old gasket out of its channel. I cleaned the channel with a rag and replaced it with the new gasket. It needed to be trimmed about an inch in order to get the door to close properly. Took me about 5 minutes. Then I removed the old bottom door gasket. Just grasped the plastic edge showing while the door is completely open. Pull outward with fingers moving toward the heating element. Cleaned this area also. Took the new gasket with notch on the right hand side of the dishwasher and pushed it into place. If you get down and look closely, you can see where the notch hooks up. The rest of the piece just slides in after that. Hasn't leaked since! No leaks AND no service call fee. Parts came super fast! So glad I found this website. I'm a housewife, you can do this!
Reading the instructions posted, I realized that I only needed to remove the two lower screws on the inside of the dishwasher door. The lower front panel then came off easily. I unplugged the power to the dishwasher. I then removed the six screws holding the dispenser in place, and when loose I unplugged the two wires (I used a flat blade screwdrive to pry them a bit then they slid off -- note the red one was inside, lighter one outside). I put the new part in, put in all but the left screw with the hook. I then plugged the wires in, and fastened the left screw with the hook positioned around the wires. I put the panel back on, fastenet the two screws that hold it in, and plugged the dishwasher back in. It's working beautifully. All in all it was about 20 minutes.
Repair was easy I removed the old drain pump by removing 1 clips with pliar & 1 band with a screw driver and replace the drain pump with the new one, I replace clip and the band. replace drain hose tighten down the band. I had to adjust the drain pump because it seem to be a little loud then the one I had to replace , now it works !
My door would not close, so I could not turn on the dishwasher.
It was simple, I do have extended warranty from AHS, but they charge me a trip charge of $55 per repair, and then all parts and labor is covered. But when I checked with Parts Select the parts costed me about $10, so I decided to do it myself.
While I was at it, I also bought other parts and updated my dishwasher with some upgrades.
Good place to buy any parts from, they are very helpful, if you do not know your parts. They even had drawings of my dishwasher, and this actually helped me find what kind of other parts I could buy to upgrade my dishwasher.
Parts select is on my favorites list and pass it on to all my friends.
Water in dishwasher did not heat up. Dishes came out dirty and greasy. Some fungus started to grow in dishwasher.
Unplugged the dishwasher. Closed and disconnected the water supply. Removed two screws that attached the dishwasher to the countertop. Pulled the dishwasher out from underneath the countertop. Laid the dishwasher on its side to access the bottom. The high limit thermostat had shorted out and showed signs of electrical burn. I removed the high limit thermostat by unscrewing the single screw that holds it in place. I then pulled the two electrical terminals off the high limit thermostat . One terminal (i.e. small electrical plug connecting electrical wire to high limit thermostat) was burned badly. I cut it off the wire and attached a generic terminal bought at local hardware store (six for $3). The other terminal was fine. I plugged the new high limit thermostat in and attached it with the single screw to the dish washer. Put the dishwasher back in place. Test ran dish washer and dishes came out shiny, clean and dry. Done.
The strip comes right out when you pull, there is a space to grip it on the left and pull it out. The notch goes on the right side when you put it back in; it only goes in one way. I didn't get it all the way in the first time and closed the door; the gasket came right out. A clear sign that I had done something wrong! So I put it in again, this time pushing it as far as it would go. It went all the way in and stayed. It doesn't click or anything, but you can kind of feel when the notches all connect. Also, it doesn't slide right out again.... very easy!
First, I had to remove a small metal paper clip that somehow ended up in the bottom of the dishwasher, which jammed the spray arm. The spray arm wasn't able to spin around, so it melted onto the heater. I removed the spray arm, and replaced it with the new one.
The "Wash" light on my dishwasher began blinking continuously. I tried to reset it by turning off the power for 5 minutes. No change. I tried the "test" sequence per the dishwasher service booklet. No luck. Knowing it was either the control panel (expensive) or the door latch assembly (cheap), I first tested the door latch. With a multi-meter, I was able to determine that the door latch assembly was not functional. This gave the dishwasher a false signal that the door was always open. To change door latch assembly: 1: Open dishwasher door and remove all the screws holding the front door faceplate on. 2: Remove the front door faceplate as well as the control panel. 3: Locate and remove the (2) torx screws holding the door latch assembly on. 4: Take note of the placement of the four electrical connectors on the old latch assembly. ( I simply removed them one by one from the old assembly and re-connected with the new one to eliminate confusion) 5. Once electrical connectors are completed, simply reverse the process.