4RF302BXKQ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Moved the stove out from the wall. Took out the screws from the back and then from the top. I pulled the piece through the back to unplug the clips from the elements. But the wires went back through the openings. So I had to take the back off of the stove to get to the wires to put back through the holes in the stove. Once the clips were back together, I put the back back on the stove. Rebolted the part to the stove and moved it back.

Very easy . Just removed four screws and removed the back cover. Then just unplugged two clips from the element . The repeated all of my steps in reverse . Be sure to unplug the oven before you start on the project .

I removed the two screws that held the element in place . I think pulled out the element and disconnected the two wires. I put the new element in and connected the two wires. I went to put the element back in and something sparked and burned up the wire. Lesson learned - turn the electricity off first. I had to pay a repair man to come out and replace the wire.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

Removed oven door and the 3 screws holding the bottom door trim. Attached new trim piece and reinstalled oven door. Entire job took less than 5 minutes.

I just put the drip bowl in and plugged in the new heating element and I was done. It heats much faster and is level now so cooking is much easier. Also the parts arrived sooner than I expected, so I was very satisfied overall. Couldn't have been much easier all around. I will use Partselect.com in the future. Thanks

Removed the old burners and lifted top assembly. It made it easier to work with the wires by removing the top, easily remove the screws holding the wire harness and ground wire, then slid the top to the right and it came right off. splicing the wires in was very easy and all the parts required were sent with the kits. reassembled stove and it worked like a champ. The drawer was very easy as well the plastic glides were all broken or worn out, and one screw each to replace. like a new oven now, saved at least 300 by not purchasing a new one.

Slide range out,unplug range,remove rear cover to unplug element wires, open door remove screws inside oven remove element

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

It was simple. Unscrewed to screws at the back of the oven. Slipped off the wire connectors then attached the wire connectors to the new part, put the screws back in and we were back in business.

turn the power off remove the back cover 7- sheet metal screws then removed the 2-screws to the switch pulled it out enough to swittch the wires and ran the copper temp sensor in the oven mounted the switch

First I disconnected the power, removed the screw that hold the element in place. Then, I pulled the element out and cut the two wires. I connected the two wires with the new element as the instruction provided by Part Select. I put the element back and screwed it in place. I plugged in the power and turned on the burner. It works. It is really easy to repair.

It was easy to find the part. I ordered it on Sunday and it arrived Wednesday. A stress-free experience.

Removed the old, broken drawer glide by removing the Phillips head screw. Then placed the new glide into place and fastened with the existing screw.

The rivet on the top of the bottom drawer front was missing. I lined up the drawer front with the supporting bracket behind it and inserted the rivet. All you have to do is tap the top of the pin in the center of the rivet to lock it in place. No rivet tool is needed. That should be explained in the parts listing because I bought the rivet tool before I realized I didn't need it.

Unplugged stove from electrical outlet. Pulled temperature control dial off by hand. Remove screws to top back stove panel with Phillips screwdriver. Removed top stove back panel. Unscrewed broken infinity switch from stove. Unclipped wiring harness to broken switch by prying loose with flat head screw driver. Reclipped wiring harness to new switch. Screwed replacement switch back onto stove. Reattached back panel with screws.